Halstead Best 50 - Problems with Ignition Lockout

[Slugbabydotcom]

The Manufacturers Instructions state specifically that a radiator should not be part of the by pass. [The myson fan convector is basically a radiator]
When boilers are designed they are tested in conditions as per the manufacturers instructions. If you do ANYTHING outside of these design parameters then the boiler MAY NOT work as intended. Unless you know what these design parameters are then it is unwise to detract from the instructions.
Generally speaking boiler manufacturers design a max temperature difference between the flow and return next to the boiler of 11ºC during all stages of the heating process. If the temp difference is greater than 11º the sudden increase in temp as the water passes through the boiler then the water may boil inside the heat exchanger resulting in 'kettling'.

What you have there is a substitute for a correct installation which appears to be working OK. Or is it? and if it is will it continue to do so as the system gets older and the sludge builds up or if you altered the system or perhaps if all the TRV's closed at the same time?

My advice can not be any other than to say fit the bypass as per the Manufacturers Instructions. Even if you dont need it now you may do at a later date.

 

[ChrisR]

The M. I. say use a bypass without a radiator IF you have a gravity hot water system This is so that radiators don't get hot when the boiler is dissipating excess heat on HW heating.
If you're on fully pumped then this applies:
"If thermostatic radiator valves are fitted it is
recommended that a bypass is installed to provide a suitable
water circuit should all the thermostatic radiator valves be shut.
This bypass circuit should incorporate a minimum volume of
7 litres. It may utilise one radiator which should be fitted with
lockshield valves only."

So if you have un-trv'd rads, you do NOT need a bypass, just a lockshield rad cap both ends of one rad.

 

[rayhigh]

I have a Wickes LW60 (same as Halstead Best).

I had the ignition lockout light and could not reset. I had a spare 500570 board (as you do!!!) and swapped over to make sure it was this board that was at fault. I noticed that the 'faulty' board didn't rattle when shook (there are some small relays inside).

I gently banged the unit on my palm and it freed the stuck relay (it started to rattle!)

Refitted and all works well. Not saying this will work every time but ok for me on this occasion.

Here's the rub on this one. The spare board I bought off ebay two years ago (March 2008) was £60. Today the cheapest on ebay is £130!!!! Someone is making big margins on these boards somewhere along the line!

Cheers... RH

 

[Frogmania]

Well I've managed to 'unstick' the gas valve without even touching it. I'm not sure whether I should mention the process I used as you guys will think I'm a nutter.

So how did you manage to do this? Pretty definate that I have the same problem on my Halstead Finest Gold Boiler i.e. it locks out constantly and after checking with Halstead they suggest it is the gas valve. Would be grateful to avoid cost of replacing valve if at all possible.

 

[Agile]

Usually when they stick they stick intermittently, usually first thing in the morning.

There can be many other things which can cause them to fail to light up.

Tony