Halstead CBX 32

[G0OSE]

Hi, I have been reading through these forums all last night trying to find an answer to my new problems, with a little success - but overnight I have had a whole new problem start.
Basically a week ago our expansion vessel was full of water which caused a rad to split in the front room (1 pipe old system) so a plumber friend of mine (not gas) suggested we fit an external expansion vessel, which he did , and 2 new small rads in the front room.
At first all was good, ALL the rads (including the 2 new ones) got hot and the house was toasty.
Later that evening the front room felt cooler, I checked the rads in the front room and one was 1/2 warmish, the other stone cold - the rest of the old rads in the house were piping hot.
I noticed the pipe below the 1st new rad was hot, and after much reading on here found out that it may be the TRV's he fitted which were thermostatic and not really suitable for the 1 pipe system, and thought I may have found the answer.
Anyway went to bed, the house upstairs was still nice and warm - this morning no hot water (which was fine before the fit) and the red light is on, also the rads are not really hot, but not cold either? though I think that was from the being hot and just cooling slowly.
I reset the boiler a few times and straight after that it seems to try and fire up, but then goes back to the red light - if I don't try to fire up the hot water after reset the light just stays off.
If I try the central heating, it fires up for a few seconds then goes out - but no red light.
The red light only appears if you fire the hot water.
This all seems to be connected to the work I had done yesterday - as I say HW was working fine previously.
I have obviously bled all the rads too, and it is holding pressure fine.
Any ideas? any help would be much appreciated.
I have tried to read the fault code bit, but with little success - I just don't understand it.

 

[muggles]

Quite possibly air in the boiler, causing it to overheat. There should be an auto air vent inside to release the air, but it could well have failed as they aren't terribly reliable.

Time to call an RGI - you shouldn't remove the boiler casing yourself

 

[G0OSE]

Thankyou for that, that was one of my thoughts too - I am with you about the reliability too - the thing is trouble every now and again!
I would dearly love a new whole system, but with things so tight money wise we cannot just find 3k for a new pipe work system and boiler, although obviously that would be ideal!
I will try to get my gas plumber in next week to look at the air lock you suggest.

 

[Agile]

From what you have written it is difficult for me to come to any conclusion.

But then you have not mentioned any temperatures! A boiler engineer will be very interested in the temperatures on the flow and return pipes at the boiler.

It seems likely that you have not ever had your boiler serviced. It contains a pressure relief valve which should open and ensure the pressure does not get to high. For radiators to burst it sounds like it was very high.

I don't understand this English thought that bleeding rads helps anything. It is the cause of many faults I get called to.

My feeling is that you need an engineer to properly check it and diagnose the problem.

Tony

 

[G0OSE]

Thankyou Tony (seems like I aready know you after reading all your advice to others on here last night lol) you are a very helpful guy!
I did have it serviced last year as handily we had a gas engineer who lived opposite us, but he has since moved away so hasn't been done this year.
When I say split, well it was more a pin prick hole, which may or may not have just been an old radiator on it's way out naturally, but I don't know for sure, as the schraeder valve leaked water instead of air I assumed it was the expansion vessel at fault, and is why we fitted a new one.
The thing I can't get my head around is why it has happened so recently after this fit, and the 2 new rads - maybe it's a few things all combining to cause the issue? the hw was working fine before this work.
Like I said I'll get a gas man out in the week if I can to look at it - just thought I'd throw this problem out there first to try and get some views - thankyou again
I have now tried again to read the fault code, which is a bit hard as it seems to be different every time I do it, but the 'light/flash/light/flash' has come up a few times which does suggest there could be air in the heat exchanger.
When it gives these codes are they in 'sets' of 4, 1 set of 4 after the other? or is it only the first 4 things it does we are looking for? ie, it may light 7 times then flash, then lights again?