Hard wax oil and silicon sealant

[tonetone]

Hi all

I'm about to do the corner joints and sink/hob cutouts on my new solid walnut worktops. They'll be hard wax oiled, that seems to be what is best these days.
Is it best to wax the jointed surfaces before siliconing them? Will that stop the silicon adhering properly? Similarly for the cutouts, if I wax the worktop first will I get a good seal or should I silicon the sink in before I wax?
Thanks in advance, Tony

 

[Wayners]

Silicone won't stick to waxed surface.

 

[Deleted member 174758]

If you are thinking about doing the edge joints, have you already sealed the underside of the top and the (out of sight) back edges already? All surfaces other than end to end joints (which are clamped together) need to be thoroughly sealed

 

[foxhole]

The sink cut out needs to overhang the sink so as not to need silicon.The hob comes with its own seal so doesn’t require silicon.
You can use foil tape on underside and hob cut for extra protection .

 

[tonetone]

Thanks all. I hadn't thought about sealing underside/back edge but that's a good idea. Sink is inset like hob, so I'll seal that with silicon
I'd best get on with sealing the back and underside then...

 

[Deleted member 174758]

The sink cut out needs to overhang the sink so as not to need silicon.

It ideally also needs a drip groove to be routed on the underside of the worktop on sinks like Belfasts, about 5 to 10mm in from the edge. Because water can get trapped there I have always treated that out of sight area with wood hardener before installing tops and I'd probably use the same approach to protecting out of sight cut edges

On wood to wood joints, such as you get with an L-shaped worktop, I use loose Dominos nowadays to locate the top (before I had a Domi I used biscuits), but I glue the joining faces with a D3 PVA or non-foaming D4 glue (e.g Everbuild) and then pull the joint up tight with standard "dog bone" worktop joiners. There are invariably differences in level caused by cupping, etc, but they are easily dealt with using a sharp hand (jack) plane and a belt sander