Hardwall over bright nails?

[oldman2]

I put some electrical capping on my wall with bright nails, didnt have any galv ones at the time.
The walls due to be plastered next week, are the bright nails likely to rust and affect the plaster finish?
Plaster will be around 15-18mm thick to finish coat.

 

[roughcaster]

As you said, galvanised nails should have been used, but if you "dab a little drop of oil based undercoat" over each nail head, that should sort it.

Roughcaster.

 

[oldman2]

Thanks Roughcaster, I can do that, I have some black bitumen paint, would that be better I wonder.

 

[roughcaster]

No probs OM2,,,, it's only a little dab on each nail head.

Roughcaster.

 

[oldman2]

Thanks again, I only raised the question of black bitumen paint just in case it was known to have a reaction with hardwall

The rest of the capping is now fitted with 1 1/2" galv nails and I even experimented with no nails

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I put some electrical capping on my wall.

Why?

 

[oldman2]

I put some electrical capping on my wall.

Why?

To keep the currents from falling out..

Or maybe it was me not trusting the plaster's trowel to keep from nicking my cables.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

I'm told that's the last thing a plasterer would want to do to the edge of his trowel...

 

[Richard C]

I'm told that's the last thing a plasterer would want to do to the edge of his trowel...

Go ahead & fit it, but steel capping not plastic. I'm a plasterer & capping of any sort is not a problem for me or wont be for any "proper spread",
It may help to stop the currents falling out but & if you say it’s to prevent “spreads damaging cable” again !

& bash the nails down each side of the capping, not through it.

 

[oldman2]

I used to be an industrial sparks before retirement and there everything had to be either armoured or in conduit/trunking or sure as little acorns someone would damage a cable.

At risk of ridicule here is part of my kitchen wiring awaiting a spread

View media item 16605
Although its been more than 30yrs since I last had to first fix on a bare new wall I will say that I would always use capping to prevent accidents to my cables during the build. Even if the spread is 100% certain not to clip a cable.

 

[ban-all-sheds]

1) Conduit would have been better.

2) Not sure about that dog-leg on the right...

 

[oldman2]

2) Not sure about that dog-leg on the right...

Thats 6mm into a 45amp switch then on to an oven terminal in a tall unit. 6mm doesnt like tight bends, but it has to right angle somewhere along the run.
Below it is the switched (next to oven sw) under counter appliances radial.

I did want to leave the lower part of the wall clear for hot and cold water supplies and a run of gas pipe for the hob.

The waste pipework seen on the far right is temp to the old kitchen and will come out once the new area is finished.

 

[roughcaster]

I prefered the old way, where the conduits were chased into the brick/blockwork. A lot more work to do it that way i know, but far easier to plaster over,,,,, and the plaster covered over them deeper too,,,,, imo.

Roughcaster.

 

[roy c]

Thats not an extension on to canterbury Spar dash ,is it oldman2?

 

[oldman2]

Thats not an extension on to canterbury Spar dash ,is it oldman2?

Yep sure is Roy, plain sand/cement 1960's render not coloured but extremly hard. Nobody enjoys trying to clip cables down it.
Not looking quite so red these days as when first done.

View media item 16610
Durite Canterbury Spar a red / white / black / grey angular flint.

The spread is not sure he can hardwall direct onto it yet, we shall see