Has my builder f***ed up the wiring to my bathroom extractor

[anit999]

I have had an X-Mart Extractor fan with humidistat and automatic shutter fitting in my bathroom.

I have an issue which is the automatic shutter does not work. Everything else seems to work fine with the extractor - the fan turns on and off automatically when there is steam in the bathroom. I thought it might be faulty but I have just checked the electrical connections and it looks like the builder has only wired it up with a blue Neutral cable and a brown Live cable.

In the instructions it specifically says that a black Switched Live (SL) must also be connected if it is a timer or Hydro model and it is the Hydro model.

Do you think this is the reason why they automatic shutter does not open? If it is howcomes the fan still works?

Do you think my builder has f**ked up or do you think it is a faulty unit?

I have attached the fitting guide and below is a link to the website of the fan:

http://vectaire.co.uk/products/x-mart#sectioninstallation

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• anit999
• 18 Sep 2010
• 1

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• anit999
• 18 Sep 2010
• 1

 

[Taylortwocities]

If the fan is turning then the shutter should open. They are electrically connected together.

Some fans have a delay of a minute before the shutter opens.

Sounds like you have a dud'un.


I think that you should have three connections to the fan
live
neutral and
switched live.

Cannot see the diagram posted as its too blurry.

The fan should operate if the room gets steamy and also when the light is turned on.

 

[MalcofArabia]

Well the literature shows that a fan with the humidistat and timer should have a line, neutral and switch line, which means it as 3 cables to it. The standard has only 2, so the standard may be the one you have, as that may have the humidistat but not the timer.

You don't mention if the fan as a timer on it, the main live is normally done in association with the timer part of the fan. If your fan does not have a timer, which it may not have then the 2 wire system is ok, as the humidistat works like a thermostat or switch and will make and break the feed or switch line.

Normally the grills open on air pressure, when the fans runs it opens the grills and when stopped the grill close, most don't have an electrical connection, but again yours may, but could not see that on the brochure

 

[PrenticeBoyofDerry]

Should have a three core to it.

 

[anit999]

Thanks for the replies.

The fan is definitely the auto shutter model with the humidistat. The front facia/shutter should automatically move forward and open when the fan is on, which does not happen with mine.

So it seems like it should have the Switched Live connection and it looks like the builder has messed up rather than a faulty unit.

Is the only solution to rewire it?

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• anit999
• 18 Sep 2010
• 2

 

[MalcofArabia]

Looks like he as wired it as that standard unit which explains why the timer and grill is not working ..............yes looks like he as .

But there again I bet i'm not as good at building a wall as a builder, so why do builders think they make good sparks.

Just an aside, was this a replacement for an existing fan or a new circuit, because if a new, hope you got the EIC /MWC for the circuit and all the results and the building notice from the LABC??

 

[anit999]

Looks like he as wired it as that standard unit which explains why the timer and grill is not working ..............yes looks like he as .

But there again I bet i'm not as good at building a wall as a builder, so why do builders think they make good sparks.

Just an aside, was this a replacement for an existing fan or a new circuit, because if a new, hope you got the EIC /MWC for the circuit and all the results and the building notice from the LABC??

It was a new build extension so the builder would have had to get all the appropriate certificates/inspections for the building inspector to pass it.

It looks like the builder will not be receiving the final payment until it is sorted.

 

[MalcofArabia]

How long ago was this done, and have you got the control notice back.

All the electrics done in the extension should have be tested and certified and the originals left with you.

If the work was done under building notification then copies of those would have been sent to the LBC and they would decide if further action was needed before issuing you a certificate.

If the builder/sparks was under a self certification scheme then you would still have the original test certificates and a LBC sign off.

 

[Taylortwocities]

Just to check that the fan & shutter are working OK.

Put a temporary link between switched live and live on the fan, and turn on the light.

The fan should operate. Check that the shutter opens.

Then you have proved that the fan is working as it should.

All you then need to do is to have the builder to run 3 core and earth from the fan to the fan isolator switch (you do have a fan isolator switch?) and you should be sorted.

 

[pjcomp]

Not familiar with the make of fan, but the shutter fans I've used usually have a mechanical link to the shutters. When the fan fires up a lever is activated which pushes a rod which presses a lever which opens the shutters; when the fan turns off the first elver retracts and a return spring or gravity lets the shutetrs back in place. Not unknown for one part iof the machanical link to become disconnected or broken.

PJ

 

[anit999]

Just to check that the fan & shutter are working OK.

Put a temporary link between switched live and live on the fan, and turn on the light.

The fan should operate. Check that the shutter opens.

Then you have proved that the fan is working as it should.

All you then need to do is to have the builder to run 3 core and earth from the fan to the fan isolator switch (you do have a fan isolator switch?) and you should be sorted.

Thanks for the replies guys.

This seems like a good idea. So I can just put a wire between the Live and Switched Live terminals on the extractor fan then give it a go.

 

[sparkydude]

Yes thats fine an offcut of cable between the two terminals will do the trick. with the existing feed left in the existing terminal to loop the power to the other terminal . Power it up and see what happens.

Nick

 

[ericmark]

Reading the instructions you have posted I would expect the fan to start when either switched on and then to continue to run until either the steam has been completely removed or the time has expired. Or work just with humidity control.

Because it requires a 3A fuse to follow the instructions really requires a double pole light switch or a separate switch to activate the fan. Where the bathroom has outside light and non opening windows using the lights to trigger does not comply with Part F needs to be a push switch.

I think the pull switch required will normally be supplied with a red cord as designed as emergency switches for disabled toilets.

However since humidity controlled types of fan is not permitted where a toilet is also in the room they are rare and normally used where showers are fitted in bedrooms.

The one you have it seems has both with timer and humidity control and if you read the instructions it clearly states you "CAN" install a switch to run the fan independent of the humidity control so the reverse must also be true without bypass switch it should work with two wire control.

The third switch wire is only required where there is a toilet in the bathroom so reading the instructions seems nothing wrong.

I am sure if it required a third wire it would say "MUST" has secondary switch not "CAN" so I think fan faulty not wrongly wired.

However never fitted one only going by instructions you have posted.

 

[anit999]

I have wired the Live to the Switched Live terminal and the fan operates correctly but the automatic shutter does not open. So it looks like it is a faulty unit. I will send it back for an exchange.

Thanks for the useful advice!