Thanks for your reply laferret will def go with that idea. We all getting a bit fed up, so anything to make this easier is appreciated. The more we dig up the more we find, but most of big pieces up we think, mostly hard core left so rotavator should get stuck into that a lot quicker than we are doing at moment
Having a go at turfing garden
- Thread starter Shewsnup
- Start date
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At last earth is clear and broken down quite fine, going to give it another few rakes and have ordered the turf for Tuesday. Only thing that bothers me is that it is slightly lower than the patio now after taking the allowance for the turf. No big deal as there is really good deep soil left. All the same I was going to pop into Wickes tomorrow and pick up a few bags of compost (do not want to go through the extra hassle of ordering a huge bag of topsoil because of difficulty with access) Would it be ok to just get a few big bags of multi purpose compost and lay over the the prepared soil. I have no idea if soil for lawns needs to be different from the stuff for flowers. I tried to read up on it but was all too complicated for me. Would welcom eany advice
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Oh bugger! just read this but have already ordered 4 x 70 litre bags of general compost from Wickes and cus I also needed 2 radiators and some skirting boards got free delivery and they delivering before compost gets here on Tuesday. Shall I just not add it at all, get some sand from somewhere that I can add to it or use it as it is. I have a garden that drains well in that it is on a slight slant on way to bottom and then beyond my garden wall drops into a deep valley also there is quite a lot of grit left from patio builders, I removed as much as I could but had to mix the residue with existing soil, next door neighbour said that would be ok and help with drainage. Think I am getting the connection with sand now, stops soil from clogging up? Shall I just not use the multi use compost?
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Are you laying the turf yourself or having a landscaper do it?
If the former, try to swap the compost for wickes own topsoil 4 for £10 25 litres. Without seeing it I couldn't say how much you need but 4 bags won't go far at all.
If a landscaper is doing it just ask them to bring a loose ton of grade A topsoil with the turf.
It's quite important to get the levels right at this point as you'll kick yourself when mowing undulations and valleys. A ton sounds like a lot but it's only eight good wheel narrows and it will spread and settle well once watered under laid turf.
If the former, try to swap the compost for wickes own topsoil 4 for £10 25 litres. Without seeing it I couldn't say how much you need but 4 bags won't go far at all.
If a landscaper is doing it just ask them to bring a loose ton of grade A topsoil with the turf.
It's quite important to get the levels right at this point as you'll kick yourself when mowing undulations and valleys. A ton sounds like a lot but it's only eight good wheel narrows and it will spread and settle well once watered under laid turf.
Have just read your reply and am waiting for Wickes to open so that I can change order. Yes I am doing it myself, with help of course. We have dug it over then raked then repeated and repeated then used a roller and then raked again so it is quite even. Done a bit of an overkill really but just wanted to get it right. I cannot order a ton of topsoil as everything has to come through the house, it hasnt been too bad up to now but have had a new floor laid and now, anything that is not sealed or easily moved cannot come through. I was hoping that garden would have been completed before I had floor laid but I would have lost the carpenter for a few months if he did not do it on the allocated days. Think I might delay the turf for a day or too until I have sorted this topsoil. Thanks for your advice
Ok.
A bit of technique to minimise back ache.
You will need: An old hand saw, strong contractors rake, enough walking boards (planks) to get you to the far side of the lawn area - even if you have to hop.
Start in a corner and create a perimeter of lawn by rolling out the turf, one by one in the same direction until you arrive back at the first roll. If there are any curves just crease the turf in places to create a rough idea of the direction so that you can crack on with the in-fill.
Using the boards to walk on one of the perimeter sides - drop your turf tight against the corner furthest away from you and roll it as close but not overlapped as you can to the perimeter rolls. This way you create stripes by alternating the direction that you unroll the turf.
Use your rake to adjust the position of the turf so it is snug against the last roll behind and to the side by firmly taping the rake prongs repeatedly against the turf to shuffle it in the direction you need it. This saves your bending down and trying to pull the turf as it is heavy and will stretch while damp and then shrink back as it dries leaving you with lots of turf islands.
As you reach the end of a plank, flip it over onto the centre of the rolls you have laid so that when you start in the other direction the planks are already there.
As you get them butted together correctly, use the top of the rake as a packer by holding the handle vertically and firmly bringing the rake down so that it creates a tight seam between two rolls of turf. Do this around every joint.
Once this is done you can use the saw to trim any excess from the ends (there should be plenty of this because you should stagger the joints just like brickwork). If you have a curve, use an extension lead and drape it across the turf until you have it as you want it and then cut using the saw.
When done, stand back with suitable beverage in one hand and the hose in the other and water thoroughly. Keep making sure it is kept damp by watering in the evening for the first 2 weeks. The roots should have taken in your subsoil by then (you can sneak a peak in a corner). That being the case, reduce the watering until the ground begins to firm up and then you can walk on it. Assuming the weather stays mild you may have to consider a cut but no more than 1 inch off, never around the threat of frost and try to make sure your blades are sharp.
Good luck! (invoice is in the post!
)
A bit of technique to minimise back ache.
You will need: An old hand saw, strong contractors rake, enough walking boards (planks) to get you to the far side of the lawn area - even if you have to hop.
Start in a corner and create a perimeter of lawn by rolling out the turf, one by one in the same direction until you arrive back at the first roll. If there are any curves just crease the turf in places to create a rough idea of the direction so that you can crack on with the in-fill.
Using the boards to walk on one of the perimeter sides - drop your turf tight against the corner furthest away from you and roll it as close but not overlapped as you can to the perimeter rolls. This way you create stripes by alternating the direction that you unroll the turf.
Use your rake to adjust the position of the turf so it is snug against the last roll behind and to the side by firmly taping the rake prongs repeatedly against the turf to shuffle it in the direction you need it. This saves your bending down and trying to pull the turf as it is heavy and will stretch while damp and then shrink back as it dries leaving you with lots of turf islands.
As you reach the end of a plank, flip it over onto the centre of the rolls you have laid so that when you start in the other direction the planks are already there.
As you get them butted together correctly, use the top of the rake as a packer by holding the handle vertically and firmly bringing the rake down so that it creates a tight seam between two rolls of turf. Do this around every joint.
Once this is done you can use the saw to trim any excess from the ends (there should be plenty of this because you should stagger the joints just like brickwork). If you have a curve, use an extension lead and drape it across the turf until you have it as you want it and then cut using the saw.
When done, stand back with suitable beverage in one hand and the hose in the other and water thoroughly. Keep making sure it is kept damp by watering in the evening for the first 2 weeks. The roots should have taken in your subsoil by then (you can sneak a peak in a corner). That being the case, reduce the watering until the ground begins to firm up and then you can walk on it. Assuming the weather stays mild you may have to consider a cut but no more than 1 inch off, never around the threat of frost and try to make sure your blades are sharp.
Good luck! (invoice is in the post!
)Haha, thanks for all that advice, will definitely take that on board. Not sure when we will be laying it now with this awful weather we having, its pouring down today and looks like it will be for the next 6 days too. Fingers crosses that we have better weather coming next week.
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