Heat leak rad used as auto bypass, help please

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Hello, I'm new to the forum and after a bit of advice, hope some one can help please.


As the title suggests I've come across an issue with an auto by pass valve fitted on what appears to be an old heat leak rad. The rad is obviously being used as the by pass.




The pipe work for the heat leak rad t's off the boiler flow after the pump and before the zone valves, all ok, then there's an auto bypass valve, after this the pipe goes into the floor. It looks like it feeds two rads then resurfaces behind the cylinder and connects to the hot water return after the coil.


Should this work ok, or will the the hot water 2 port have to be open?




I'd be really grateful if some one can share their knowledge. Cheers.
 
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Difficult to say without knowing what connections are under the floor. Does the ABP feed the 2 rads or go straight to the return? It is OK to have a heat leak or summer rad (usually in the bathroom) before the zone valves. The ABP may be necessary to ensure minimum flow through the boiler if the bypass rad(s) alone are inadequate.
 
Cheers for replying Wannocks, the ABP feeds the rads then returns into the DHW at the cylinder. The s plan install is relatively new, I was called to take a look at a problem with the rads not heating, as far I could work out it should work as long as the boiler is fired in ch or hw, but the rads didn't seem to heat with hw only. An suggestions on this? Still learning the trade obviously.
 
The main question is, as the customer was used to having a warm towel rail in the summer as the rad in the bathroom was piped to allow this, will the auto bypass prevent this due to shutting down when the rads are on. Surely there will be a further problem with the towel rail not getting warm with the heating on due to the ABP shutting down.
 
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Is it a solid fuel boiler which needs a heat leak rad?
Is the heat leak rad in the bathroom?
Can you post a pic showing the pipe work from pump to motorized valves? If not a drawing will do?
 
Sounds like its piped up wrong. The ABP should be in addition (parralell) to the summer use rads, not in series with them. They wont work when the HW is on as the resistance through the coil is not enough to push the bypass open.
 
(y)Thanks people,

I'd sort of sussed it myself but you've confirmed it, it's a Baxi solo 15 he a. Looks like the fitter stuck the abp on the old heat leak. I reckon the best solution is to move the by pass valve and connect up as standard then, connect the old heat leak rads without a valve on, as the homeowner wants a warm towel rail in the summer. Is this acceptable.
I'd upload photos etc if I could work out how to do it, can't seem to access the my photos on my iPad.
Another thing I'm trying to learn.
 

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