Heating Controls recommendations (RF & wired)

Joined
2 Dec 2009
Messages
132
Reaction score
1
Country
United Kingdom
Background

The central heating installer (over 20 years ago) has used T&E instead of a 3C&E to wire the cylinder stat and has used the CPC for the SAT. If he'd put his hands in his pocket and used the correct cable instead of profiteering and squandering it on pies he wouldn't be so fat he doesn't fit under floors (acquiring type 2 diabetes into the bargain) would have stayed in business and I could have called him back to re-install the cylinder stat properly.

Had a bathroom installed last year (father ordered it without consulting me and it was installed when I wasn't around) and it seems the installer has borrowed the CPC for something else. Since the bathroom was installed the CH spur fuse blows when the cylinder reaches setpoint instead of closing the DHW port. Think he may have fitted a couple of junction boxes under the floor to extend the cable and bonded the earth connection of one of the JBs to something (pipe under the radiator?). The floor is tiled and there is now no access under floor or route under the bathroom from the cylinder to the heating controls wiring centre (Drayton LWC1). There's not a route to install a room stat either until kitchen refurb.

Bathroom installer also never repaired a joist properly and used wrong cable for shower 6mm2 instead of 10mm2 and refuses to put heating controls wiring back as it was or say what he has done with the cylinder stat cable, lay floor properly so taking advice from CAB.

Controls Recommendations?
Though I'm not very keen on wireless controls, workaround is to use RF cylinder stat and associated Rxer. Also considering a wireless room stat and upgrading from a Randall 102 to a wired digital programmer with 7 separate days & boost but for the timebeing getting the central heating on and staying on would be a start.

What sort of reliabilty (MTTF, MTBF..) can I expect from RF controls?
What band are they on?
Is there an industry standard open system or are they propietary? (can I use one manufacturers rxer with another manufacturers stat?
What fault mode does battery exhaustion put the system into?

What sort of batteries do these units take? Had a look at Honeywell datasheets (only found the glossy) but it doesn't say. I

was hoping to us rechargeables as have chargers for the common battery types in all their respective available chemistries.

Was hoping to get the boiler changed out to a combi and the radiators moved to where they should have been installed later this year but given the succession of idiot tradespeople that have bodged, scratched their heads or overpriced one thing or another that'll have to be held off until at least next year. I don't use the DHWS much (no bath, electric shower, so it's a waste to heat a [poorly insulated] tank of water that isn't used.
Hence looking for controls that will be compatible for current Y plan system and the room stat & programmer retained for whatever is installed when I can afford the combi.
 
Sponsored Links
If you changed it to an S plan you wouldnt need the satisfied connection.

I have used Drayton wireless cyl stats and it seemed OK, although it looses connection if theres a powercut etc, and it must be manually reset.

Honeywell wireless room thermostats are my personal recomendation, they are the most reliable.

The batteries last in excess of 12months so I wouldnt bother using rechargables (infact I dont think its recommended).

The receivers come in the box and cant be interchanged.

I THINK they operate on 433mhz.
 
Thanks, I'm figuring out the immediate costs and what would be scrapped if and when a combi fitted. I'd really need to install an RF 3 pack and change to S plan to get existing system working more efficiently until I cn afford to get the boiler changed.

So, thinking aloud:

Change to wireless, remain on Y plan
RF Controls pack 3 circa200
+Can easily install myself
+ Space heating control
- still heating water uncessarily
Scrappage: Cylinder stat

Change to S plan
1 15mm and 1 22mm motorised 2 port valves c 60 ea ,
Fittings 15
2 channel wired P&I programmer (RF enabled) £80
+Independent control of CH and DHWS.
+Expandable controls
- would still need room stat
- Would need plumber to fit and pipe valves.
Scrappage: 15mm HW v/v

Yes probably cheaper CapEx and c. 20% reduction in OpEx by going S plan ... depending on price of plumber

Place is a real tip though, as might be expected with malfunctioning HW, (and me working 7x 12s since December) so a bit ashamed to have one of the plumbers round seeing the place. :oops:

I've the bathroom radiator off just now for replacement anyway and to let plasterer work (the old man's timing and priorites suck brrrr)
 
Sponsored Links
I found the Honeywell datasheets. The batteries are plain old AAs.

Think I'll get the controls seen to first, as it's the shortest lead time get the system working.

Great, the plaster is going to take all weekend to dry and been advised not to use the shower until Monday.
 

DIYnot Local

Staff member

If you need to find a tradesperson to get your job done, please try our local search below, or if you are doing it yourself you can find suppliers local to you.

Select the supplier or trade you require, enter your location to begin your search.


Are you a trade or supplier? You can create your listing free at DIYnot Local

 
Back
Top