Hi. I'm trying to plan out the heating for my next house. There will be a wood boiler heating a thermal store which will feed some underfloor heating and a couple of zones of radiators. My plan is that there will be a mixing valve getting water to the right temperature for the three circuits of ufh. I can't quite get my head round the controls. I was hoping that a programmer would turn on the rads and ufh in the morning and evening. I assume the rads should have trvs and a bypass valve for if the pump turns when the valves are shut but what about the ufh? Should there be a bypass there or if room thermostats tell the actuators to close does it tell the pump to stop turning as well? Hows a simple system usually set up?
Heating controls.
- Thread starter aggy
- Start date
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if i was you i would try and control the two systems seperately. rads and the ufh. that way you can always turn one off without it effcting the other.
please do fit a bye-pass on the rad circit and i would strongly recommend you buy a ufh kit with pump,pipe,valves and a built in bye-pass. there very easy to assemble and you can then use the actuators to control the temp of water flowwing around the ufh circits to your spec. i would then fit a room stat [either hard wired or RF its up to you] to control the pump??
not knowing your lay out or seeing the job its hard to understand wot kind of control system you are after but my suggestions should help??? you can fit a normal seven day single channel progrmmer to this but make sure you fit a non-return valve before pump on ufh circit. you can then control your heating for rads as normal with a seperate room stat and twin channel [heating and hot water] programmer.
it may be a little more costly but worth it in the long run as controlling temp and heat out-put is wot its all about these days. no good trying to heat up your neighbours house for them is it??
hope that helps ahab!!!!
thats wot i thort was being fitted???? If its just a normal wood burner then i would suggest using low and high pipe stats to energise the pumps.
but make sure your Electrician or heating engineer understands how it works. I myself use this method many times and find it works well. please make sure you use a open vent system and that you use one of the rads [possibly the bathroom] as a heat leak?? you can use zone valves on this type of system but i always use a normally open one on the heating side just incase you have a power fault and the pumps wont kick in, at least it has some where to go.
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The timers will be fitted to the outputs from the thermal store not the wood burner. I'm planning to install it all myself.
So the rad circuit will be done the same as the rads in my house ie TRVs, bypass, timer. Except with a non return valve before the pump.
For the ufh circuit, I've already bought a pump and manifold and some actuators and am planning to get a thermostatic mixer valve so that decisions been made already. So do I fit a bypass valve after the ufh pump? Does the programmer that controls the actuators turn off the pump as well?
So the rad circuit will be done the same as the rads in my house ie TRVs, bypass, timer. Except with a non return valve before the pump.
For the ufh circuit, I've already bought a pump and manifold and some actuators and am planning to get a thermostatic mixer valve so that decisions been made already. So do I fit a bypass valve after the ufh pump? Does the programmer that controls the actuators turn off the pump as well?
One of these ugly brutes. http://www.oilstoves.co.uk/webdocs/technical/Franco/DIVA_PREMIERE_82_914_16_&_22_29.PDF
The 82.914 one. You can't tell from the link what a strange shade of brown it actually is.
The 82.914 one. You can't tell from the link what a strange shade of brown it actually is.
They recommend a 4 way valve along with a low return stat.
The low return stat will energise the circulator and interlock it when the temperature falls below the pre defined setting.
The gravity circuit is important in this.
Theres no reference to a high limit stat though I would fit one anyway.
They show a "control valve" fitted to the heat leak rad which could be an avta cooling valve which basically operates in reverse to a trv.
And a swept T but no reference to an injector T. I would go with the MI's on this and forget about thermal stores unless you want mains pressure HW. And then a HW only store.
Adding the store means extra controls and unless it is huge you will have little benefit from the storage back up to CH.
You won't need timers to control the circulator as the timing will be determined by the stoking and partly by the appliances air damper control.
The low return stat will energise the circulator and interlock it when the temperature falls below the pre defined setting.
The gravity circuit is important in this.
Theres no reference to a high limit stat though I would fit one anyway.
They show a "control valve" fitted to the heat leak rad which could be an avta cooling valve which basically operates in reverse to a trv.
And a swept T but no reference to an injector T. I would go with the MI's on this and forget about thermal stores unless you want mains pressure HW. And then a HW only store.
Adding the store means extra controls and unless it is huge you will have little benefit from the storage back up to CH.
You won't need timers to control the circulator as the timing will be determined by the stoking and partly by the appliances air damper control.
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