Heating - multiple queries - TRVs, Wireless Programmer

[Simes123]

Hi,

Got a few queries - and hoping for some help:

1. Cast iron period radiators, with period style Gothic Thermostatic valves - possibly made by Bentley or similar - like this http://www.hotinteriors.co.uk/produ...rv-thermostatic-radiator-valve-antique-brass0
Almost all are faulty or weeping - sticking despite me regularly freeing them off. Can I replace just the glands? Can't find any relevant spares, but wondering if there were any kind of standard? The valves range from £60 each and up to replace, and I have 10 rads with this type of valve (16 rads total). They look pretty, but seem unreliable, which leads me to my second question.

2. I thought about replacing them with Honeywell VT200E's (and painting the white plastic Bronze), such that I had a modern design decent valve that didn't look too odd on a Cast Iron rad (missus is not keen on my plan). Does anyone else make a Brass TRV around the £20 mark that is of a good functional design?

3. Combi Boiler is Vokera Linea 36HE with 411 Wireless Programmer Stat. It doesn't seem to be cutting off when programmed off - and instead runs continuously. I have a hunch that this might have coincided with me installing a wifi extender in the house, so will try some diagnostics with and without that on this weekend when I'm home. If that proves unsuccessful, is there a common boiler fault that would give this symptom on this model? Occasionally (once a month?), I have to reset the boiler as I lose heat to the rads although everything seems to function normally otherwise.

4. I've tried balancing the Rads, but using an Infrared thermostat, I don't get anywhere near a 12C drop across them - more like 3-4 degrees max. Flow rate too high or is this a feature of a cast iron radiator?

5. Lastly, the furthest Rad from the boiler gets plenty hot with the TRV wide open and lockshield wide open, but the room struggles to get up to 19C or so - I suspect the Rad is undersized, but wanted to check my logic.

Sorry for all the questions - I though I'd start by sorting out the TRVs first, as they are the most annoying problem, but trying to save some money by sorting out any obvious problems.

Appreciate any help from kindly engineers who frequent these forums!

Simon

 

[Simes123]

Polite gentle bump - anyone? I realise it's a lot of questions, but any help appreciated Can't bring myself to spend £600 on replacement TRVs just before Xmas

 

[Dan Robinson]

1 - dunno, probably not... move on to 2

2 - if she's got any better ideas? Tell her to work away.

3 - wifi thing won't have dine squat. Boiler might need more attention. Buy a Honeywell cm927.

4 - try harder. Infrared thermometers are shlte.

5 - need a bigger rad.


Closing comments - champagne ideas - beer money. Never works with heating systems unless you REEEEEAAAAALLLLLLYYYYY know what you're doing. Christmas is no excuse. Spend the cash or freeze.


Fricking annoying when a customer gets a bill and then moans "because Christmas is coming"


Sorry, but its coming for me as well. Bills to pay mouths to feed, such is life.

 

[Simes123]

Hi,

1. Thought as much. Don't mind spending the money on replacing these like for like if they were any good. But these are barely 3 years old and now junk. I reckon a modern Drayton/Honeywell design would perform better and cost a fraction.

2. ha, yes fair point. I'm not sure that all chrome would look too out of place and would save me some work. Or possibly get some chrome stripper and get back to brass....

3. I'll do some diagnostics at the w/e. I'll try a straight switch and bypass the receiver. It might just be pairing, but I'll investigate and go for the Honeywell if it appears that aspect is faulty. Or get someone in to look at the boiler otherwise.

4. It's the differential that's the issue - there isn't much. Thermometer appears fine but I wondered if the Cast Iron rads just retain so much heat that I do need to try harder (not sure how though - if the lockshield is almost shut, and I've only got 4C differential, what does that mean - flow rate too high is my assumption, but I don't like assumptions


5. Thanks - that's what I thought. I might be able to switch with a larger cast iron rad I have elsewhere that I believe is oversized, so this could be an easy fix.

Christmas comment was just a plea - I really don't mind spending the money if it's worthwhile. But £600 for a junk design will just be a waste. Seems this type of valve aren't the best from reading online. Figure a more functional modern valve at lower cost may be the best option if I can make it look suitable. At least if that fails in 3 years, I've not got another £600 bill. Realm make some brass valves, but charge double for the brass finish vs the chrome for the same identical valve. I'm more amenable to paying for function than pretty!