Heating Not Working / Pump Constantly Running - I Think I Broke It.

[2506327]

We have a Hive thermostat controller and have done for a while. I've decided it was time to remove the old thermostat from the wall in the utility. (Since we got Hive, it's always been set to max temp so always on, as such, leaving Hive to do the hard work.)
Removing the thermostat, I hooked up the live to the switch and isolated neutral. I'm guessing this was the wrong thing to do as I noticed the central heating pump was constantly running after 10 minutes, so I undid my changes and put the old thermostat back on.
Having turned the power back on since:
- The boiler doesn't kick in when I turn the central heating on. (Although it is the first time I've tried this autumn). It kicks in when the hot water is turned on.
- The central heating pump is constantly running. (It wasn't before.)
I'm assuming I need to get an expert in, and having been talking about it for a couple of years now, this may be the nudge we needed to get the boiler upgraded.
Anyway, before doing that, seeing if any of you helpful folk have any suggestions on a quick win?

 

[stem]

Removing the thermostat, I hooked up the live to the switch and isolated neutral. I'm guessing this was the wrong thing to do

Linking the 'live' and 'switched live' together to complete the circuit, and isolating the neutral is the way that it's done.

Did anything go wrong whilst you were moving the wires? Did you create a short circuit or blow a fuse for example? Otherwise, based on what you have said, I think it's likely that something else is amiss that may not actually be related to what you have done.

 

[CBW]

Post photos of your wiring for the old room thermostat.

 

[2506327]

Post photos of your wiring for the old room thermostat.

Here you go.
I connected red to yellow; left blue out of the equation.
Update though... pump has stopped now. I turned all power off again for a bit; when power was back on (with old thermostat still connected), pump started and then went off after a few minutes. Guessing this is normal after power is restored and it just wasn't playing ball before.
Central heading doesn't come on still (hot water fine). With the pump being OK, I'm wondering if the central heading not coming on is a bit of a red herring and wasn't going to anyway regardless of what I did here. (Not been on since Feb/March.)

 

[2506327]

Linking the 'live' and 'switched live' together to complete the circuit, and isolating the neutral is the way that it's done.

Did anything go wrong whilst you were moving the wires? Did you create a short circuit or blow a fuse for example? Otherwise, based on what you have said, I think it's likely that something else is amiss that may not actually be related to what you have done.

Thanks for that.
Just popped an image on above with a bit of an update.
Wondering if it is just the heating itself and was unrelated, as you suggested.

 

[stem]

That looks like a Danfoss RMT 230, in which case the connections are as I would expect to see them.

Red L = terminal 1
Yellow SL = terminal 2
Blue N = terminal 4

Therefore, if you joined red (L) and yellow (SL) together, and isolated blue (N) that's fine.

 

[2506327]

That looks like a Danfoss RMT 230, in which case the connections are as I would expect to see them.

Red L = terminal 1
Yellow SL = terminal 2
Blue N = terminal 4

Therefore, if you joined red (L) and yellow (SL) together, and isolated blue (N) that's fine.

View attachment 280066

It is yes.
OK, thanks for you help.
Good news is... I didn't break it.
Bad news is... heating doesn't work!
I'm glad I got to this now before the cold weather arrives.

 

[CBW]

It is yes.
OK, thanks for you help.
Good news is... I didn't break it.
Bad news is... heating doesn't work!
I'm glad I got to this now before the cold weather arrives.

Likely to be a fault on the motorised valve then. If you have test equipment we can help you diagnose.