HELP MSV 322 3 way valve problem

[gullarm]

I have read all the other post relevant to my situation but none of them have helped me very much.

I have a dilemma with my Central Heating System, the 3 way valve stopped working along time ago, at the time the girlfriend was using the system set manually to the 50/50 position so Heating and Hot Water where on at the same time. Using only the Central Heating switch on the Potterton EP2001 controller to turn everything on.

In the summer she turned all the rads off around the house, so the house didn’t get hot, in the winter it took a long time for the house to warm up because the hot tank is heating up as well.

When I appear on the scene, I take off the actuator and change the position by hand, a far better way. But hard to remember at 3am if you have turned it over for hot water in the morning.

Anyway I finally got hold of a MSV 322 valve ( one without the lights ), and decided to fit it.

The new one has plugs fitted, where as my old actuator is wired direct to the box on the wall in the airing cupboard.

So I dismantled the old actuator and dismantled the new one as well. Both the Pcbs inside are slightly different (probably something to do with the lights).

So I de-soldered the wires and swapped them all over.

Powered up the system and tested it, the actuator moves to the correct position depending on what is requested, great I thought!

But now I have found that when hot water is requested the actuator moves and the boiler kicks in as well as the pump, but when heating is requested the actuator moves to the correct position but there is no boiler action and no pump action. It does run for a few secs when going from HW to CH though?

I don’t understand what is going on here, but I have a suspicion that two wires are crossed?

On the new actuator there are four cables with two connecters blocks.

Connector 1 - Blue and Brown
Connector 2 - Orange and Grey

On the old one there are just four wires in the cable

Orange, White, Grey and Blue.





Heres a rough diagram of the PCB inside the actuator and how I have wired it up.

`````````----------------
Motor----> I O...........O...I <----Blue
Motor----> I O................I
`````````I................O.I <---Grey
`````````I..O...O......O..I <---White
`````````I....................I
`````````` ^
..................Orange



I have also run some voltage tests on the new head.

Central Heating On
Blue 0V
Grey 240V
White 240V
Orange0V

Hot Water On
Blue 0V
Grey 0V
White 240V
Orange 240V

Both HW and CH ON
Blue 0V
Grey 0V
White 240V
Orange 240V
( same as Hot water only )

Any help would be well appreciated, Im tempted to swap the cables but then Im concerned it might go bang ( though it is fused )

 

[gazthepottertonengineer]

i dint know you could get one withot lights anyways i would get the correct head and stick it on personally its alot less hassle and your not supposed to dismantle those heads and for that reason you wont find many people on here able to give you advice a they wont have seen the insides of one

 

[ChrisR]

I think the one without the lights is for a diverter valve in a combi. Different application altogether.
Use the old head with the motor out of the new one!

 

[gullarm]

SORTED IT.

Cheers for the replys, it put me back on track.

It is the wrong diverter!

I took the new one apart and found there is only one micro switch in there.

Dismantled my old one and swapped some of the parts over, the only thing I needed from the old one was the PCB, the cover and the plastic section that holds the 2 microswitches in place.

Found the bottom microswitch on my old one was knacked as well so de-soldered the new one and put that on as well.

Remade all the wire ends and resoldered them back in they were all about to fall off.

Powered it up and it worked?

Cheers Lads.

 

[gazthepottertonengineer]

I think the one without the lights is for a diverter valve in a combi. Different application altogether.
!

Your right Chris its out of the Flowsures isnt it Envoy,Puma and Statesman