Help my fence post holes are too wide I've messed it up!

[Tagged]

Hi all.

Back again with another problem

Fence blew down last year in the wind, the last 2 panels on the end. Told by neighbour previous sections had fallen and been repaired before we bought the house. These are 6 ft wide panels and the posts had snapped due to rot. I cannot move the holes due to the panel size, I've also added a small 6ft post tied to the larger 8ft for extra support.

The old concrete was spread fairly widely so I had to dig a wider hole to get it out. The issue is now I can't get the post set properly due to how wide the hole is and the loose soil.

I've added in bits of old cement and rubble I've had laying round and tbh trying to get rid of to pack up the hole but I think they are too large.

I've added some pictures. I set the post last night before bed, It's like a clay like substance today and I can still rock the post more than I feel I should be able to.

I've got 1 bag of post crete in there. Should I take out the if lumps and break them up and poke some holes and add another bag of post crete in?

Any help is greatly appreciated thanks!

 

[freddiemercurystwin]

I've had to add over 2 bags of postcrete per hole before now, PITA but not a lot of choice.

 

[Notch7]

Take out the rubble and use as many postcrete bags as needed

Removing old posts almost always means too big a hole for a postcrete bag

 

[Tagged]

I've had to add over 2 bags of postcrete per hole before now, PITA but not a lot of choice.

Is it worth me just pulling out some of the rubble and putting another bag in as it sits?

 

[HERTS P&D]

Don't worry, those timber posts won't last that long before they will need re-doing.

Concrete slotted posts all day long. (9ft long)

Andy

 

[JohnD]

If the holes are big, it is more economical to mix your own.

You can use CLEAN rubble if each piece is totally surrounded by new mix. So pour some, place the stones, pour some more. Do not fill with concrete right up to the surface, make a timber frame, say, 1 foot square, round the post, so only a neat part shows.

But yes, such a lot of work is wasted if you are putting in wooden posts, because they will rot, and you will have even more work digging them out.

As you have already bought wooden posts, put concrete spurs in and bolt them to the wood, cutting the wood off above ground level and removing the lower part.

If possible, let the spur set in the concrete for a couple of days to strengthen before you bolt the fence to it and rocking it.

 

[Tagged]

If the holes are big, it is more economical to mix your own.

You can use CLEAN rubble if each piece is totally surrounded by new mix. So pour some, place the stones, pour some more. Do not fill with concrete right up to the surface, make a timber frame, say, 1 foot square, round the post, so only a neat part shows.

But yes, such a lot of work is wasted if you are putting in wooden posts, because they will rot, and you will have even more work digging them out.

As you have already bought wooden posts, put concrete spurs in and bolt them to the wood, cutting the wood off above ground level and removing the lower part.

Yes understand. Tbh wanted to go for concrete ones but if this will last me a year or 2 we may look into replacing the fence altogether so atm this is a patch up job.

The post crete is pretty hard now so I've made a ring around the post again with more rubble and I'll add another bag of post crete less water this time hopefully this will secure it.

I think I haven't come up far enough with 1 bag due to the size I'd the hole.

 

[daviesm1976]

Where I've ended up with large holes I have added 1 or 2 bags of postcrete to hold the post then mixed normal concrete to top up. You can also paint the bottom of the post in bitumen. After you've shaped the concrete away from post base you could also add bitumen where the concrete and post base meet.

 

[Munroast]

3' x 2' x 50mm paving slab. cut it in half (1½' x 2') slide one of these down each side of the post (parallel to the way the fence runs) back fill with earth and stamp down. (no need for conrete) fill the gap between the paving slabs with stone so it drains well. That fence will never move and if it is treated tanalised timber it will last for decades as it will be dry most of the time. And Yes I have done fence repairs like this, it is a better and stronger job than concrete.

just think about it, how difficult it would be to move a paving slab sideways through the ground ?

 

[Keithmac]

I used 3 foot deep holes and packed in gravel, solid as a rock and 10 years down the line they will be easily replaced.

 

[Tagged]

Well this is where I'm at now.

After building it up again with rubble packed in some soil on the surround I added another half bag of post crete and poked holes through it, added water and gave it a good poking down and tamped it.

Added the other half and packed it down as hard as I could again. It's not exactly a perfect height but I think this will be MUCH more solid now compared to what I had.

As I said if it lasts a couple of years I'll be delighted and then I can look to replace

 

[lostinthelight]

I used 3 foot deep holes and packed in gravel, solid as a rock and 10 years down the line they will be easily replaced.

Its the way ive done since I was taught that way on a fencing team for the Forestry Commission in the early 1960’s

 

[Old Salt]

When you replace it start with a smaller panel so you can stagger the new post holes.

 

[Tagged]

When you replace it start with a smaller panel so you can stagger the new post holes.

It's not a great fence tbh.

If it blows down again is likely do this how can i do half panel do I need to cut 1 in half.

It's oddly shaped

 

[lostinthelight]

I dont bother with panels, just fix horizontal rails and vertical board them , post spacing or odd shape isn't critical then.