Help need for new rad on system.

[Legion]

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[gas4you]

For a simple idiot, you obviously can't even draw out a simple pipe plan diagram

If the rad is piped between the boiler and the pump the best that will happen is that it will just pump around the new rad and the pump, missing the boiler.

Water will always take the easiest route, like the water on your brain does.

Any of us will p*ss all over you, bamber/bigburner. You cannot even register for the CC because you are incompetent and untrained


You will soon be banned again, thank god, at least the unsuspecting public will be safe from you once again.

It will go quiet now, because you are not worth replying to anymore. You just rant bad advice as you have done under all your other screen names. It's so easy to realise who you are, you just cannot help yourself as usual.

OP just ignore this wind up artist who knows nothing, he cannot justify by any professional means his useless comments.

One good thing though, following his advice will make you rich, as you can sue the arse off him for his cock ups.

 

[Legion]

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[gas4you]

Forum idiot

 

[timoth]

I chose the points to tee off because they were the most convenient upstairs under the floorboards. I know they are after the pump because the pump and boiler housing (Gerkros) are outside . I know they are F/R because one goes hot when you switch on the heating (feed) and the other is not as hot (return).
I tried Legion's advise but water is still refusing to go anywhere near the new rad, not even a gurgle. There is about 20 foot of piping (1/2 ") between the point I teed off and the new rad for feed and return, is this too much? Also, are you certain that hot water expected to go from upstairs to downstairs is not a problem, would I need an extra pump. Please advise.

 

[Goldspoon]

Also, are you certain that hot water expected to go from upstairs to downstairs is not a problem,

Happens on very many systems and is not a problem.

 

[Goldspoon]

Back to basics first (ignore if you are more experienced than this):

Is the lockshield valve open?

Is the TRV open fully?

Is the TRV pin stuck down by any chance (take top of TRV off and press little pin in and out - don't worry no water can possibly escape doing this).

Did you bleed the radiator of air (did you get water eventually)?

You could try closing the valves, removing the bleed valve completely with a spanner, inserting an iso valve in here (with a bit of PTFE tape, and a bit of 15mm copper in t'other end), attach hosepipe, drain water out of pipe to outside. This cured a horrible airlock I once had.

 

[timoth]

I'm a complete novice at this, both valves are open alright, and there is water coming out of the bleed valve .The problem looks to be way before the rad, I teed off the 1 1/4 pipes with 1/2 " plastic pipes but if you feel the feed one of these, there is only heat for the first two feet, the rest is cold. I want to try and trouble shoot this with out diasmantling it as it was extremely awkward to assemble. If there was an airlock in the pipes,what would be the best way of clearing this?
Thanks, Tim.

 

[Steve69the69Gas]

Drain a stack of water out of your new rad- may clear any airlock

 

[Goldspoon]

I suspect an airlock. I said how to cure an airlock in the last post... basically flush it out by attaching hosepipe to hole where bleed valve lives. Had exact same problem as you and this fixed it.

The problem looks to be way before the rad,

Not necessarily. Basically warmth is spreading down the pipe towards the rad by convection. It sounds like you have no flow through the rad so it CAN be the rad that is preventing this - hence me asking about the valves.

Sounds to me like something is blocked.

Blocked can be

valve not open
TRV pin stuck
PTFE tape wrapped over end of pipe when wrapping round an olive (have seen this)
airlock

Does water come out the bleed valve when you bleed. If YES then you have got water pressure to the rad. However it can be water from flow or return and one or other can still be blocked. So now you need to determine if both valves are allowing water to pass.

Make sure heating is off.
Turn OFF the TRV but open the lockshield valve (the other one)
Bleed the rad for a couple of minutes.

Does water keep on flowing?

If YES then the lockshield is allowing water to pass. If NO then it is blocked.

Turn OFF the lockshield valve but open the TRV
Bleed the rad for a couple of minutes.

Does water keep on flowing?

If YES then the TRV is allowing water to pass. If NO then it is blocked.


Report back.

 

[powell30]

And try goldspoons advice with all other rads shut down to give maximum flow to that single circuit......airlock or blockage. As long as your sure it is fow and return you have connected to and you have a bi directional TRV (some need setting for direction just check)

 

[picasso]

1/1/4" pipes sound as if they are on a gravity HW circuit unless you live in a massive house.

can you follow the pipes you cut into? where do they go, as g4y has said you may have cut into the flow and return of the gravity hot water, thats why they are getting hot when you turn on the heating.

 

[holty]

you havent got a one pipe sytem by any chance, and have tapped into the flow and return tails going to a rad.

 

[bengasman]

You still haven't told us whether you surely have a fully pumped system or not.

 

[timoth]

I bled the rad with the TRV (well actually just an ordinary on/off valve) side closed and lockshield open and the rad bled fine for about six pints or so. then the opposite side and bled fine ok. The pipes I teed into are the correct feed and returns, 1/2 " piping is comming off each one in the direction of another rad. Did this with all other rads closed and then filled up system and switched on - rad is still not heating up, any ideas?