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Help needed with Door Frame in a Stud Wall

Discussion in 'Wood / Woodwork / Carpentry' started by Skavenger, 20 Oct 2020.

  1. Skavenger

    Skavenger

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    Hi;

    I am separating a room with a stud wall and fitting a door frame (but no door yet). The door frame has a header and two uprights (like this). The header has two sets of mortice recesses one pair on either side, where I presume the uprights fit. On one side the inner edge of the recesses are 76cm apart and on the other side the recesses are 84cm apart.
    The door linings are 25mm thick.

    We are not planning on fitting a door, because if we do it needs to be a fire door, so for the time being we are leaving it as an opening.

    I have marked our all the studs working from either wall and currently have a gap of 102cm where the door way will go.

    Adding the thickness of the door linings (25mm) to the widest recess in the header the external size of the door lining would be 89cm so I will move one of the studs that sit either side of the door to meet this (or double up a stud to keep the 400mm centres.

    Questions
    1. Are the recesses designed to allow for two different size doors?

    2. Should I use the wider option?

    3. What size door would be needed if and when we get one?

    4. This is a softwood door lining, so if we had to get a fire door would we need to replace the door lining.

    I am kind of up against it because I need to get the stud wall finished tomorrow night (at least the lower part because the flooring is going in on Thursday PM.

    Thanks for any advice
     
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  3. johnny2007

    johnny2007

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    Don't fit the door lining yet for 2 reasons:
    That one is not good for fire doors.
    The frame final position is easier to find with the door attached.
    In other words, you would fix the hinge side dead levelled , fit the door and then fix the rest of the frame so to have a perfect 3mm gap all around the door.
     
  4. Skavenger

    Skavenger

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    This may be difficult because the flooring is going down Thursday / Friday?
    I guess I have two options:
    1. Omit the door frame and fit the studs either side of the opening - if so what internal gap should I leave for the opening? The flooring company can fit the floor up to this and then later when required, the door frame can be placed on to of the flooring?

    2. Do the above and fit the door frame anyway and remove it later (It only cost about £30), flooring to be cut around the door frame.

    What should I do about the header plate height? What is a recommended internal height for fitting a door later?

    I will also be fitting plaster board before Thursday but not plastering.

    What do you reckon?
     
  5. Notch7

    Notch7

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    Let the flooring go down first, put door liner on top.

    Decide on door size first, make your liner to suit door size.

    Position of studwork above door liner:

    Door height + 6mm or so gap at bot + 3mm gap at top + liner thickness + 10mm gap

    So for 1981 door with 28mm liner, set studwork at 2028mm above floor finish.

    Assuming plasterboard is 12.5mm door liner needs to be 30 mm wider than studwork.

    You need to make sure liner is put in with head square to jambs and legs parallel to each other -eye liner from one side so can see edge of one side of jamb lines up with other side of jamb - don't assume studwork is parallel.
     
  6. johnny2007

    johnny2007

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    Just keep 3/4 inch to 1 inch extra top and sides to fit the frame.
    So for a 30inch door+1.5inch frame you want a shy 34 inch gap roughly.
    Carpenter will fit the frame and fill gaps.
    A parallel and plumb studwork would be ideal, but i never found one unless i put it there.
     
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  8. Skavenger

    Skavenger

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    just finished for the night, got all the main studs and noggins in and plasterboard on one side up to the stud nearest the door opening. We don’t have a door so I was struggling to work out wher to put the king and jack studs which I wanted to fit before I cut the floor plate for the door opening before they fit the floor tomorrow.
    So in the absence of a door and frame to work from what should I leave as the optimum width between the jack studs for the door opening. Allowing enough room for a standard door and frame (probably fire door)?
     
  9. johnny2007

    johnny2007

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    34 inches is good
     
  10. Skavenger

    Skavenger

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    Ok just seemed a little small?
     
  11. johnny2007

    johnny2007

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    No, 30 inch door, 1.1/4mm frame x2, 6mm gaps (1/2 inch) =33 inches
    34 inches will give the carpenter a good gap to adjust any stud imperfection.
     
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