Help required! Cutting through a worktop joint

[irishp]

I need help

I got a guy to cut my counters for me. However when he had done the joint he discovered that the sink had to go on top on the joint. This is not good I know but it is the way I am now, I don't need people saying I would not do that as I know this!

He said he would let the joint set for a few days then come back and cut the sink out. He put the butterfly joints under the counter. However his mum is ill and I cannot get hold of him and am fed up of washing the dishes in the bath.

Can I cut the sink out without causing the two worktops to pull apart, or do i need to screw some metal joining bars under the counter for re-inforcement? The sink cut out will be the whole sink with a 30mm lip around to support the sink.

Any suggestions will be gratefully received!

 

[Trazor]

Are all of the worktop bolts going to be removed when you cut the sink aperture..?

But what I would do, is fit some purpose made stainless steel angles..300 m/m long, one leg 25 m/m the other leg 10/12 m/m long. the thickness of the stainless needs to be 2.5 or 3.0 m/m. These will be very strong.

Get 2 made, and have 12 holes in each angle ( 6 each side of the joint ). The holes need to be 6.0 m/m. Practise screwing them into a bit of waste worktop to ensure which ever screws you use, screw up real tight.

Any local sheetmetal firm would knock these up for you...Good luck.

 

[irishp]

Are all of the worktop bolts going to be removed when you cut the sink aperture..?

But what I would do, is fit some purpose made stainless steel angles..300 m/m long, one leg 25 m/m the other leg 10/12 m/m long. the thickness of the stainless needs to be 2.5 or 3.0 m/m. These will be very strong.

Get 2 made, and have 12 holes in each angle ( 6 each side of the joint ). The holes need to be 6.0 m/m. Practise screwing them into a bit of waste worktop to ensure which ever screws you use, screw up real tight.

Any local sheetmetal firm would knock these up for you...Good luck.

unfortunately all three wil drop out.. it is a farce!!

do you mean 90degree angle pieces? or just straight pieces with 6 holes in them simply screwed into the work surface?
but thanks for that i will get two made up asap

Many thanks

 

[Scrit]

He said he would let the joint set for a few days then come back and cut the sink out. He put the butterfly joints under the counter. However his mum is ill and I cannot get hold of him and am fed up of washing the dishes in the bath.

I think that there may be another reason for his non-availability - but then I always have had a suspicious mind.

Can I cut the sink out without causing the two worktops to pull apart, or do I need to screw some metal joining bars under the counter for re-inforcement? The sink cut out will be the whole sink with a 30mm lip around to support the sink.

Probably not - even if you can get them apart the entire joint area will be weak and I'd not recommend it. As I see it you have only two options - pull the tops and start again or swap the sink for a drop in sink-only unit which has no drainer and thus a much-reduced cut-out size.

If you make the cut-out and you have to remove the banjo bolts is the top well-enough supported that the reciprocating action of the jigsaw isn't just going to break the joint or propogate a crack from one of the cut-out corners? Personally I don't see the "engineering solution" working as the worktop, and therefore it's joints, will always be weak unless the guy used biscuits and glue to make the joint in the first place. If I were asked to take ober this job (and I'm in the trades) my advice would be that the risk is too high and that replacing a section of top would therefore be the cheapest and most dependable option. With respect, trazor, are you a kitchen fitter?

Scrit

 

[Trazor]

With respect, trazor, are you a kitchen fitter?

No is the answer to your question.

I,m an engineer, I was just helping out with an engineers solution.

We make similar items at our place of work (although not for this application ).... 3.0 m/m stainless angle as I suggested will take the weight of a man over 300 m/m , provided the screws will hold.

By the way... irishp...this must be angle not flat plate..

Even better would be channel, formed like the letter U...

Scrit is right I,m not a kitchen fitter, my only reservation with this method is how well the screws would hold...

 

[irishp]

thanks lads

cannot really afford a new counter at mo, so will try and track him down, he has fitted kitchens for 20 odd years and did a good job of the joint


he said he done it before and was doable but said he would have to let it set first

unless u want a nixer??!!