Help with cutting/bending copper pipe

[drives]

Hi all,

First time giving soldering a go with copper pipe/yorkshire fittings and all ok thus far apart from one problem. I am using a pipe cutter and then am trying to use a bending spring to bend the pipe but can't insert the spring into the cut end. What I noticed is that the cutter will essentially bend the pipe inwards very slightly, but enough to impede the spring entry. I have tried using a file on the inside of the pipe but no success.

Is there a trick to doing this, or do I just have to cut them a different way (hacksaw?). I've attached a photo which probably doesn't show much but you can see where it compresses the end slightly, as well as cutting it.

Thanks

 

[terryplumb]

You need to ream out the inside of the copper tube. Or use a round file to do it if you don't have a reamer.

 

[drives]

Ah right thanks- just googled that. Makes sense.

 

[Nige F]

Or cut with a junior hacksaw

 

[feynman]

Use a metal cutting cone cutter in your battery drill on low gear, to ream out the folded over bit at the end of the pipe - quick, accurate and easy.

Bending springs are not easy - you can get them out by putting a bar through the end and unscrewing them as it were. But I would, (did), invest in a proper pipe bender - a lot easier and no crinkles in the tube. Get one for both 15mm and 22mm.

 

[bernardgreen]

Where possible make the bend first and then cut.

 

[SpecialK]

Bending springs are rubbish. Can you borrow a proper pipe bender from someone?

 

[drives]

Bending springs are rubbish. Can you borrow a proper pipe bender from someone?

Thanks yes I actually just ended up buying a monument pipe bender and now all sorted. Basically this was my first go at copper pipework as I’m redoing a shower room at the moment and luckily I noticed when ripping everything out (when removing the old tiles and plasterboard) that the hot water shower feed was leaking.

I needed to slightly bend the 15mm sections that go up behind my ply panels, so that they come out horizontal if that makes sense and with the pipe bender it was very straightforward. I’ve attached a photo of what I’ve done as I was considering anyway just asking for advice as to whether it looks ok. I’ve tested both feeds by adding a makeshift tap before capping off and ran a few big bucketfuls through each and all seems good. The only thing I was thinking is I ended up using a lot of Yorkshire fittings as I needed to convert imperial to 22mm to the right of the photo. Then I’ve used a crossover section on the hot feed, then there’s obviously the 22mm to 15mm reducers, plus another elbow at the top as there isn’t much space at all in the cavity . Thoughts welcome….hopefully it’s ok, or at least no signs of leak. It was actually a bent section of pipework that appeared to have corroded and started leaking on the old pipework, rather than any of the joints.

 

[feynman]

I cannot see from the photo, but as long as all the Yorkshire fittings have a thin silver bead of solder showing all around between them and the pipe, the joins should be good. Note: bright silver, not dull grey.
If you are worried and uncertain, I see you have capped off the pipes at the shower fitting end, so why not pressurise the pipes with mains or loft tank pressure - as they will be in use - and see if there are any leaks, before putting the wall back in?

Before you put the wall in, I would also sort out that loft insulation. There seem to be bits stuffed in here and there; blocking airflow, and there seem to be gaps etc.
I would also make sure you fully cover all the pipework with the thickest grey foam pipe insulation. Ty-wraps (zip ties) are very useful to hold the pipe insulation on around bends - but you don't need to pull them very tight, just enough to hold the foam in place with no gaps.

 

[drives]

Thanks- I found the 15mm Yorkshire fittings were really easy to see the solder ring appearing all the way around but the 22mms definitely more tricky- as in it wasn’t as clear to spot. That said looking at them now they all look ok. I sorted the pipe insulation yesterday and they are now under mains pressure (HW fed by unvented cylinder- mains pressure is really good), plus as said I ran quite a bit of water through the pipework before capping off by using a push fit isolating valve as a tap and a right angle bit of pipework. Should be ok hopefully .