Help with wiring BT mastersocket

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I need some help please folks

Had to disconnect the main telephone socket for a new window to be fitted and now I can't get it to work properly.

I need to reconnect the main BT drop line to to the NTE5? socket. BTW I now realise this is a touch naughty after reading up on the subject.

As it stands I have four wires out of the drop line but as before am only using the orange and white wires. I have connected the white cable to the B input and the orange to the A. They are Krone IDC type connectors.

I have no dial tone only a screeching sound although the phone will ring but you cannot hear anything. Also the internet is working fine.

I have tried plugging the phone directly into main socket but it does not help.

I have pushed the wires in the IDC with a blunt knife as I do not have a Krone IDC tool - is this likely to be the problem?

For clarity there are no extensions from the main line.

Thanks for any help.
 
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I need some help please folks

Had to disconnect the main telephone socket for a new window to be fitted and now I can't get it to work properly.

I need to reconnect the main BT drop line to to the NTE5? socket. BTW I now realise this is a touch naughty after reading up on the subject.

As it stands I have four wires out of the drop line but as before am only using the orange and white wires. I have connected the white cable to the B input and the orange to the A. They are Krone IDC type connectors.

I have no dial tone only a screeching sound although the phone will ring but you cannot hear anything. Also the internet is working fine.

I have tried plugging the phone directly into main socket but it does not help.

I have pushed the wires in the IDC with a blunt knife as I do not have a Krone IDC tool - is this likely to be the problem?

For clarity there are no extensions from the main line.

Thanks for any help.

Pushing the wire in with a knife is just stupid!
If it has made the connection correctly then you are lucky,whether it will remain connected is another thing.
Have you tried plugging the micro filter in before your phone?
 
Pushing the wire in with a knife is just stupid!
If it has made the connection correctly then you are lucky,whether it will remain connected is another thing.
Have you tried plugging the micro filter in before your phone?

:oops: Yep micro filter doesn't help.

Am planning on buying a Krone tool tomorrow to see if it will help.
 
The IDC connectors in the socket are now probably goosed if you have used a knife or screwdriver blade on them, so budget for a new socket.

If you already have an NTE5 socket then the line should connect to the screw terminals labelled A and B on the back of the mid-plate, not the IDC connectors on the frontplate.

If you replace your socket with an NTE5 then you will just need a screwdriver, not a Krone tool.
 
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drop wire doesn't go into IDC connectors, you need the NTE version with screw terms on the backplate. Or convert from drop wire to CW1308 with a nice Block Terminal 52A adjacent.
 
drop wire doesn't go into IDC connectors, you need the NTE version with screw terms on the backplate. Or convert from drop wire to CW1308 with a nice Block Terminal 52A adjacent.
The OP's dropwire will terminate on IDC.
 
The IDC connectors in the socket are now probably goosed if you have used a knife or screwdriver blade on them, so budget for a new socket.

If you already have an NTE5 socket then the line should connect to the screw terminals labelled A and B on the back of the mid-plate, not the IDC connectors on the frontplate.

If you replace your socket with an NTE5 then you will just need a screwdriver, not a Krone tool.

Thank you, very helpful.

The master socket I have has no screw teminals only IDC on front and back plate.

Will pick up a new one today with screw terminals. Am I right that it's white in B and orange in A?

Cheers

Feeling sheepish and it seems straight forward now. :oops:
 
The OP's dropwire will terminate on IDC.
So you know which type of drop wire is supplying the sub's house ?

Not all types of drop wire can be reliably terminated with the type of IDC forks in used PCB mounted "punch down" connectors. There are drop wires which if not screw connected require the used of crimped IDC connectors which have to be crimped with pliers.
 
The OP's dropwire will terminate on IDC.
So you know which type of drop wire is supplying the sub's house ?

Not all types of drop wire can be reliably terminated with the type of IDC forks in used PCB mounted "punch down" connectors. There are drop wires which if not screw connected require the used of crimped IDC connectors which have to be crimped with pliers.

Drop wire is brown with orange, white, black and green cables and a white and a green fabric/cord.

It was installed by a BT engineer in last year. He also fitted a new master socket.
 
The OP's dropwire will terminate on IDC.
So you know which type of drop wire is supplying the sub's house ?

Not all types of drop wire can be reliably terminated with the type of IDC forks in used PCB mounted "punch down" connectors. There are drop wires which if not screw connected require the used of crimped IDC connectors which have to be crimped with pliers.

Yes,in the original post it was stated the colours were orange and white.
Either dropwire 10b or 14.
Both of which can be terminated in idc connections.

edit: and by the post above,the cable is downlead brown.Certainly can be terminated into idc.
 
If it is new
Cable it does not matter weather it's drop wire of any number. Or down lead they all use 1.5mm copper with the orange white as the first pair which in a normal residential install the dial tone will be on the orange white it does not matter which way around they are terminated but traditionally the orange should be on the a terminal on the back plate, if you do not have dial tone when connected you have probably splayed the connectors out and will not work so you need a new socket and the proper krone tool
 
That's not the kind of 'idc' we are talking about bernard.
You are talking about the IDC in a NTE5 equiped with IDC for the incoming pair. These are intended for use on internal wiring and are often refered to as PBX, PAX or PABX indicating they are for use on private exchanges where drop wire is not used between NTE 5 and the exchange.

A properly made IDC joint has a small area of cold weld between the metal of the fork and the metal of the wire. A poorly made one relies on the fork pressing against the wire. The cold weld is corrosion resistant.

Whether the cold weld forms depends the hardness of the wire as well as the diameter of the wire. It also depends on the insulation of the wire.

The jelly filled crimped IDCs are used when the type of wire cannot be assured to form a cold weld and the jelly is there to prevent corrosion occurring.

The op can just krone his dropwire into his idc krone connections on his socket. As long as he doesn't use a blunt knife this time that is.
yes he can do that and he will get a connection. How long that connection remains noise free ( electrical noise due to the various things that happen in poor joints ) is the problem.
 
The new openreach nte sockets have krone idc and are not marked for pbx like you said. engineering memos say it's perfectly fine to terminate dropwire onto them.

It will work and it will work for 10, 15, 20 years. Longer than the dropwire will last. You are the king of theory, as we are aware, but we are the ones doing it in practice every day mate.
 

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