Henry Hoover (hetty model) fault diagnosis? Any help please?

[Alberto2015]

Hi all, new to the forum.

So the Hoover worked one minute, stopped working the next. It's a hetty 200A.

I've looked at various videos on youtube and am confident in replacing the part when necessary.... But... How do I actually diagnose the correct part / fault before buying a replacement ?

1. How do I practically check that the on/off switch is faulty or not? What is the actual process in checking it?
2. How do I actually by-pass the high/low switch in order to check that?

Hope someone can take the time to help. (Before my wife goes out and buys a new one lol )

 

[rocks1]

Is it dead. Post the serial number up. Found under the handle.

 

[Alberto2015]

P.s
I've checked/replaced the fuse.
Ive visually checked all wiring / electrical connections etc for looseness / burnout...

All searches and related videos I can find online only give instructions on how to replace, not diagnose...

 

[rocks1]

Still need serial number first. Does the red light come on at the turbo light when you press it. Check continuity from plug to the head of unit. Check motor brushes. If there ok then pcb is goosed but you can convert it read about post on Henry Hoover.

 

[Alberto2015]

Is it dead. Post the serial number up. Found under the handle.

Hi mate.
Yes the hoovers dead.
Model . Het200A
Serial. 100201741

I will need to purchase a multi-meter before I can check continuity as you suggest. Could you possibly help me in explaining how I could check the individual components (on off switch, high low switch, pcb etc ) without one?

Also, can you confirm that the Hoover can operate without a pcb? Is that only for the high low switch or does it power anything else.

I've looked over the other thread, but don't follow it completely as I think the Hoover models are different.

 

[rocks1]

Both hetty and Henry the same just the names change. Being 5 years old the brushes could've worn down. That will make it dead. Also the lead goes open circuit by the plug and at the head of the unit. U could cut plug off and cut wire back by 3 inches. Try that , also cut the lead back from the head the same and rewire. Just check motor brushes as well. This can be done without a meter

 

[Alberto2015]

Both hetty and Henry the same just the names change. Being 5 years old the brushes could've worn down. That will make it dead. Also the lead goes open circuit by the plug and at the head of the unit. U could cut plug off and cut wire back by 3 inches. Try that , also cut the lead back from the head the same and rewire. Just check motor brushes as well. This can be done without a meter

I'll check the carbon brushes. Am I correct in saying if they are worn they will be shorter in length ? Will it be obvious that they are worn down?

When I'm checking the continuity. One lead will go on the plug (where the live pin?) and to where on the "head of the unit" ?

 

[rocks1]

Yes. Brushes will be very low on the carbon Less than 1 cm. and yes plug to head of unit. Brown wire to brown blue to blue. When u take head off just follow the wire to the top just unroll it.

 

[Alberto2015]

Yes. Brushes will be very low on the carbon Less than 1 cm. and yes plug to head of unit. Brown wire to brown blue to blue. When u take head off just follow the wire to the top just unroll it.

Just checked the carbon 'brushes' (like rectangular rods?) that spring in and out of a red plastic casing...they seem fine. Approx 4-5-6 cm in length..

Is the method you're describing above to check the continuity of the power cable only?

 

[rocks1]

Rule out brushes there fine. The lid where the 2 wires go they have brass contacts on them you can check from there to plug. If you not got a continuity tester yet. Just cut off plug go back 3 inches and put a new plug on it. Do the same the other end on the lid. Take off the 3 screws and you will see where they got to , just screw terminals. After that if that don't work I'll talk you though the pcb rewire.

 

[Alberto2015]

Rule out brushes there fine. The lid where the 2 wires go they have brass contacts on them you can check from there to plug. If you not got a continuity tester yet. Just cut off plug go back 3 inches and put a new plug on it. Do the same the other end on the lid. Take off the 3 screws and you will see where they got to , just screw terminals. After that if that don't work I'll talk you though the pcb rewire.

Ok, checked the terminals. Changed the plug. Still no life to hetty...

 

[rocks1]

Did u rewire at the head. Chop back 3 inches.

 

[Alberto2015]

Yeah. I used an old 13amp plug from an extension socket . Do you know how to check if the fault is with the on off switch without a multimeter?

 

[rocks1]

No you can't check without a tester. I've done hundreds of these and on my a couple have been on off switch. If you changed the plug and cut off 3 inches at the head end and rewired it back into the head the only thing left is the pcb. You need to put the 2 white wires from the motor direct to the on off switch. One either side one on brown one one blue. And disregard the pcb and the wires on that. look at the post re Henry below. That's wat needs to come out.

 

[Alberto2015]

Appreciate you taking the time to reply.

Read the other thread again, seems a few on off, and high low power switches have been the problem.
If I understand correctly the Hoover can still work without the high low switch and the PCB. So I'll give that a go.
I'll buy a multimeter tomorrow, could you please tell me how I would check the on off switch (continuity etc) with it? Where to put leads and what readings etc?