Hissing noise from isolator values

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by teepa, 11 Mar 2021.

  1. teepa

    teepa

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    Hi Guys,

    Is there any way to reduce the hissing noise from isolator values ? I am trying to balance the mains system so I can open a tap without the shower reducing to a dribble.
    Restricting the flow from the isolator values has considerably helped, but it's come at the expense of significant hissing noises from the pipes.

    None of the values are full bore before anyone asks and all pipework is 15mm except for the shower which for some reason increases from 15mm to 22mm for the last 1.5 metres.

    I was thinking of getting some peglar values instead, maybe that'll help but I don't want to blow 30 quid and still be dealing with the same issue.
     
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  3. muggles

    muggles

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    Fit isolators with integral flow restrictors instead, such as Wondervalve
     
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  4. Madrab

    Madrab

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    Isolation valves are not designed to be used as balancing valves, they are meant to be used to isolate the water to an outlet. They will always hiss, especially if you have reasonable flow/pressure running through 15mm pipework.

    Why are you trying to balance the supplies? What type of system do you have? A mix of gravity and mains?
     
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  5. sxturbo

    sxturbo

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    Gate valves should be used to throttle not ball valves.
     
  6. teepa

    teepa

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    It's a mains powered combi system.

    Excellent, looks like this is what I'm looking for. The only issue is calculating what flow rate I will need. Any tips ?

    8 gate values on a residential system ?? have you seen the size of those things ?
     
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  8. sxturbo

    sxturbo

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    A 15mm gate valve isn't that big, and it is presumed they would be fitted in hidden places, inside a cupboard etc

    However the solution muggles has advised is better.
     
  9. Madrab

    Madrab

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    If it's a mains combi then the system will already be balanced.

    Are you trying to maintain the flow to the shower if someone else uses the hot and/or cold somewhere else? If that's the case then, combi boiler power and mains flow/pressure dependent, that will be a difficult one to pull off effectively.

    That being said one persons dribble is another's acceptable flow. ;)

    Combis are notoriously bad at supplying more than one outlet at a time.
     
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  10. teepa

    teepa

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    Yes, I am referring to the flow. I have managed to improve it substantially when tinkering with the isolation values and can get very good flows when 2-3 taps are open, the only issue is the hissing. I did some tests and below are my findings:

    Current Litres/min, 50:50 hot:cold:
    kitchen 10.3 lpm
    bath sinktap 9.5 lpm
    bathtub 22 lpm
    total = 41.8 lpm

    Proposed flow regulator inserts:
    kitchen 4h 4c = 8lpm
    bath sinktap 4h 4c = 8lpm
    bathtub 10h 10c = 20lpm
    total = 36 lpm

    It looks like I can get even better performance with these flow inserts, get rid of the hiss and save some money in the process.
     
  11. Madrab

    Madrab

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    Going by the industry standards on how warm water would usually be to say have a hot shower, that would normally be around 38Deg C and if the HW at the tap is around the average 50Deg mark, using those figures the Hot > Cold ratio will be around 66%/33% > 75%/25%.

    That being said, if you are getting flows and temperatures that you are happy with then fair enough and flow restrictors would certainly be the way to achieve that and minimise flow noise.
     
  12. teepa

    teepa

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    Great insight Madrab, I will re perform those tests.
     
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