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Hive Active Heating on combi boiler

Discussion in 'Plumbing and Central Heating' started by codaamok, 18 Jul 2019.

  1. codaamok

    codaamok

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    Hi

    I just purchased the heating and hot water Hive Active Heating because they were the same price and read online it shouldn't be much of an issue with a combi boiler and not a conventional boiler. I'm looking for guidance on wiring it up :)

    My current boiler is a Logic Combi 30.
     

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  2. ianmcd

    ianmcd

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    The wiring of the boiler and any external controls MUST all come from the same source i.e the same fused spur outlet, your pics dont look as if this is the case in your home and this could be extremely dangerous, and possibly fatal to anyone working on your boiler
     
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  3. stem

    stem

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    You need the single version of the Hive, and you already have all of the information that you require to do the job.

    The existing Honeywell connections (as shown printed on it in your photo) are as below, showing that:
    A = Common
    B = NO
    Hopefully N and L don't need any further explanation

    Bdr91.JPG
    The Hive Single channel connections (as shown in the Hive instructions) are as below:

    Hive.png
    So, it's just a matter of moving the wires from the terminals of the Honeywell BDR91, to the terminals at the Hive that have exactly the same function.

    It appears that they do, there are two wires in each of the L & N terminals. One will be the feed to the boiler and one the supply from the plug. I assume the grey cable is the supply to the socket. But OP, please check.
     
  4. codaamok

    codaamok

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    There is only one electrical source for the boiler and that is the plug you see in picture. The cable exposing the copper wires in to the terminals is strictly for the boiler (confirmed, I squeezed my fat head in there to look for myself). Thank you so much for making me check!

    I'm keen to get the dual channel version working. I notice the differences in the wiring diagram for single vs dual channel and appreciate I do not need the hot water function. I was under the impression it was still possible to get it working. If I'm wrong then I'll bit the bullet and return then buy the single channel version, likely now at the higher price since the deal has gone. It was a nice thought to have the device in case we moved somewhere that had a hot water tank.
     
  5. stem

    stem

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    The dual channel is for systems with central heating and stored hot water (ie a hot water cylinder)

    The single channel is for combi boilers

    Presently the Honeywell BDR has voltage free contacts that can switch any voltage (24v or 230V) whatever it is connected to at the boiler end. The Hive single channel channel is exactly the same it also has voltage free contacts.

    The dual channel on the other hand can only provide 230V control as it is designed to connect to motorised valves that operate on 230V, and not directly to the boiler. So, if your boiler is presently wired with 24v control and you connect it to a dual channel hive the 230V from it may well cause some serious damage to your boiler.

    Unfortunately I don't know what is on the boiler end of the grey and black wires connected to A & B it may be 24v it may be 230V. With the single channel Hive it doesn't matter, with the dual channel Hive it does.

    You might be able to use the dual channel but it will be more complicated than just swapping the wires over as I described before. It will require further investigation at the boiler end and maybe some wiring changes will need to made there also. Also, if you have to open up the room sealed part of the boiler to access the wiring terminals then it's not a DIY job and should only be done by a Gas Safe RGI, who can make the necessary safety checks to make sure it is properly sealed up again afterwards.

    If you can exchange the dual channel for a single channel, it is safer and simpler to install and you will have the correct controller for a combi without the superfluous control functions for a hot water system you don't have.
     
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  6. muggles

    muggles

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    Depending on the age of your boiler, it should be compatible with high-efficiency OpenTherm controls. Hive isn't OpenTherm, it's just an on/off switch with an Internet connection. If you're going to get a smart control, a Honeywell T6 would be a much better choice
     
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  7. codaamok

    codaamok

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    I appreciate your time! I have arranged replacement to get single channel instead :)

    amazon were quite good. I bought the dual channel for £95 on prime day deal and I simply asked if they'll let me exchange for single channel without paying non-prime day deal (deal is no longer valid). They met me half way so instead of paying an extra £40 to exchange they gave me £20 gift card so only costs me extra £20. A price to pay for being naive I guess but I'll take it on the chin, £20 isn't the end of the world.

    When it arrives tomorrow I'll have a punt at it with the diagrams you posted.
     
  8. codaamok

    codaamok

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    Hi stem!

    I got stuck in and had a go.

    Unfortunately the heating isn't turning on. I put wire NO in terminal 3, I think I understand this is what sends the signal to turn the heating on or off. I've tried reseating them but I'm confident contact is OK within the plates of the terminals.

    During the install guide, it said to test the boiler I should press the button below the flame on the receiver and the boiler would fire up. The boiler did not fire up while the light did turn green on the receiver when I pressed the button.

    The boiler is in "winter mode" where the dial is positioned to enable heating and water.

    The boiler is reading "Timer or room stat off" on its small display. Googling suggests it is what it sounds like, that it has no comms with the receiver and thermostat. But receiver is green and thermostat isn't moaning. If I adjust thermostat to a temp above current temp then the flame light on receiver turns green, as if it's enabling the heating, but boiler does not fire up. If I reduce the target temp on the thermostat below current temp then the green light on the receiver turns off.

    So it sounds like an issue with comms between receiver and my boiler. Not sure where to go from here, I would appreciate your help.
     
  9. stem

    stem

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    So do you now have the following?

    The two blue wires from BDR N, now in Hive N
    The two brown wires from BDR L1, now in Hive L
    The black wire in BDR A, now in Hive (1) Com
    The grey wire in BDR B, now in Hive (3) Heating on

    If so, check that all of the wires are securely fixed and that the terminals are clamped on the conductor and not the insulation.

    Was the heating working correctly before when using the Honeywell?

    Anything happen during the installation, shorted circuit, fuse blown etc.?
     
    Last edited: 22 Sep 2019
  10. codaamok

    codaamok

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    Ah, she's now working.

    Yes, that was my wiring set up.

    Your question whether heating worked before or not made me disconnect Hive and reconnect Honeywell - heating proved fine with Honeywell. I also noticed the whole "timer or room stat off" message on screen was a red herring as that showed while Honeywell was connected. Probably just default dialogue for when heating simply isn't on.

    I reconnected the Hive and then the boiler fired up via button on receiver and messing with target temp on thermostat. I could have sworn the contacts were fine in the terminals but evidently not!

    Thanks for your help!
     

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  11. stem

    stem

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    Good glad you got there in the end.
     
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