Hive Dual Heating & Water - Three way valve wiring?

[ashleytowers]

I've got the hot water working but not the heating it goes solid green but doesn't start heating. I've set it to 32C so it should be starting up.

I've located the wires from the thermostat (using a multimeter) after removing red and yellow from the thermostat from the main box.


I've connected white 12 (y plan) to red 1 (from the boiler controller) is this correct? What do I do with the blue (neutral - in the rising connector) as removing the thermostat leaves the boiler neutral on its own.

Many thanks

 

[ashleytowers]

Just as an update this is the current setup. If I manually enable the three way switch the heating starts so something isn't activating the switch, if I turn off CH and turn on HW the switch resets fine but obs not back to CH again.

I've removed the thermostat wires and moved the remaining wire in red 1 to 12 where the white wire from the switch is. I've not removed the remaining earth (I don't see this as the issue as its taped up on the thermostat size)

 

[CBW]

I can’t tell if the grey wire (HW off) is in with the 2 blues on terminal 9.

 

[ashleytowers]

Yeah there is three wires in slot 9 (I haven't changed this) two blues and one grey. One blue from what I assume is the pump and one blue from somewhere else (controller maybe)

 

[DP]

Where does the red wire at 12 go to?

Hot water heating is under control of cylinder thermostat and your controller.

For heating the white wire goes live and motorised valve moves to mid position.
The boiler will keep running as long as the water is being heated. Once this is achieved, the valve will motor to close the HW port and orange wire will go live.

If valve not motoring to close the HW port or with HW off at the timer, not motoring to close the hot water port and power up orange wire, my focus would be on the grey wire as well as HW OFF connection.
Grey wire going live does the final drive to close the hot water port.

Such an easy procedure yet causes no end of problems.

N wire to thermostat can be disconnected at the wiring box.

 

[ashleytowers]

So there's three full wires coming in from the back, one is from the thermostat which I've removed (the ones taped up at the bottom. I did multimeter to check it from there) leaving earth in as it will be a pain to remove.

The other two are from the boiler (controller) and I've moved that red one that in the bottom pic currently in 12 from 1 (which was connected to the thermostat) so it connects to the white wire (as I don't have a spare bit of wire to create a bridge and as the videos suggest)

I've done no other changes apart from that so I don't get how I could have screwed up the grey as it was working last winter with the old setup. I did rewire the back plate of the controller but I was careful to put them in the corresponding positions (two blues and a black in the N hard to make out in the pic)

I think that 1 is HW OFF (most likely issue then) and I think that's connected to 9

 

[DP]

1. Where is the wire that goes to 7

2. It is a matter of courtesy to thank those that respond to your query. I am not looking for a thank you but CBW certainly deserves one.

I looked at your post last night. Mulled over it and was going to not get involved, then did so wrote the explanation which would help you locate the malfunction. CBW already is clued up so what I wrote was no use to him. I wonder if he is over abundant with his than yous

 

[ashleytowers]

Of course thanks to all commenting (and even taking a look and not commenting) it is very much appreciated was gonna do it at the end but as we go is prob the way. Sorry if I sounded rude

Two wires(of three cores + ground) going in to the big box from downstairs once the thermostat removed (7 I assume if the riser)

Wire one (yellow cut off)
RED - 10 (panel) - N on controller
BLUE - 7 (panel - riser) - goes into boiler - Note removed the thermostat blue from here(7)

Wire two (with yellow wire)
Blue 9 - 1 HW Off
Red 12 - 4
Yellow 6 - 3

Probably at the point of admitting defeat and getting a plumber in just frustrating as I feel I'm so close.

 

[CBW]

What you need to do is trace the wiring from your old programmer, which looks like it could be the red one, originally in terminal 1 in the wiring center. I think the other one went to your room thermostat. Put this red wire in with terminal 12 - the white for 3 port valve and report back if this now works.

 

[ashleytowers]

So I've traced 1 HW OFF(blue for some reason) and 4 CH ON (red) and put them in with white (Is that what you mean else red is on its own). Same effect HW works CH doesn't turn on (obvious set target higher and hive says heating)

The blue came from the other blue and grey in 9 on the panel

---- Wire paths----
6 - Brown (from tank thermostat)
6 - Yellow (HW ON)

9 - Blue (from tank thermostat)
9 - Grey (Y valve)

10 - Orange (y Value)
10 - Brown (Pump)
10 - Black (tank thermostat)
10 - Red (live from programmer I think)

11 - Red wire to live riser (doesn't seem to have a point but not connected to anything)

12 - RED (CH ON)
12 - WHITE (Y VALVE)
12 - BLUE (HW OFF)

All other blues on neutral riser

All other earths in earth riser

White wire on left is thermostat
white wire on right is pump (or pump looking object)

THANKS

 

[CBW]

I think you’ve misinterpreted what I’ve said, and I probably didn’t explain it correctly. Remove hot water off and put this back where it was (number 9 in wiring center). Put the heating on from number 4 at Hive backplate where it enters the wiring center into number 12 in wiring center (white). Please stop calling it a panel, it’s a wiring center.

 

[ashleytowers]

Okay here's the Wiring Center Though its same effect no starting the CH (could the valve be gone?, though it does close if i manually enable and switch off)

6 - Brown (from tank thermostat)
6 - Yellow (HW ON)

9 - Blue (from tank thermostat)
9 - Grey (Y valve)
9 - BLUE (HW OFF)

10 - Orange (y Value)
10 - BRown (Pump)
10 - Black (tank thermostat)
10 - Red (live from programmer I think)

11 - Red wire to live riser

12 - WHITE (Y VALVE)
12 - RED (CH ON)

All other blues on neutral riser

All other earths in earth riser

SLIGHT EDIT (did a live wire test) and here are the whats live in each state:
CH ON - 9 & 12 live
CH OFF / HW OFF- 9 Live
HW ON / - 6 & 10 Live

Thanks

 

[DP]

Will look at your post and come back to it later.

 

[ianmcd]

Only the colour of the wires from the Mid position valve mean anything, totally ignore the colours of the other wires the colour means nothing

 

[DP]

Wire at 12 is correct
wires at 10 also correct

Wires from thermostat on cylinder can only be established with a meter

Y plan wiring is such that when you ask for hot water to be heated, HW ON goes live-term 6, yellow wire.
If thermostat is calling, then Orange at 10 goes live and boiler runs. The switching is effected by cylinder thermostat, not the valve.
In above valve wiring, switch 1 is not operated and M cannot motor as white has no power on it. Term 12. But black wire from tank stat is live which operates boiler till tankstat disconnects having achieved temperature. CH port stays closed.

Now along comes you and decide to put the heating on.
White at 12 goes live. M runs till SW1 disconnects power. Valve motors to midposition to heat radiators and cylinder.

By now the house is still cold, but HW cylinder stat has reached desired temperature.
Black wire from cylinder is depowered, orange loses mains voltage, Grey wire at 9 is powered up either by cylinder stat (blue)or from the programmer ( HW OFF)
Now M drives on by virtue of mains voltage on grey wire. SW2 operates and reconnects mains power to orange wire to resume boiler operation. HW is now closed and CH port open

You should be able to figure where the break is if you use above to fault find.
With HW off, CH calling, white and grey wires will have 240 volts and Orange also will be live to run boiler.

Some valves will stay in last position when desired temperatures have been achieved.

Good luck. Report back what you find please