Hi just wondering if anyone can offer some advice. I’ve got a hive system in the post on its way to me and going to have a go at wiring it myself. I’ve currently got a horstmann 425 coronet timer with a thermostat in my hallway. If anyone has a wiring diagram and can offer advice that would be great. Thanks in advance.
Hive help.
- Thread starter Dconn
- Start date
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You don't give much information to go on. The 425 coronet timer is only single channel, so will not provide separate control of the heating and hot water on/off times. If you have a combi boiler that doesn't have a requirement for separate hot water on/off time control then that's fine, but if you have stored hot water (ie a hot water cylinder) it could mean that your existing heating system is so old that you won't be able to use all of the Hive functions without modification to the plumbing and the addition of motorised valves for the Hive to control. So to assist further we would need to know as a minimum.
1. The type of boiler you have. Combi or Heat Only.
2. If Heat Only. Is it, 'Fully Pumped' or have pumped central heating with gravity circulating hot water?
3. If Fully pumped is it a Y-Plan (with 3 port motorised valve) or S-Plan (with 2-port motorised valves)?
Finally what version of the Hive have you ordered? The single channel is for combi boilers and provides only heating control. The dual channel is for systems that also have stored hot water (ie a hot water cylinder)
1. The type of boiler you have. Combi or Heat Only.
2. If Heat Only. Is it, 'Fully Pumped' or have pumped central heating with gravity circulating hot water?
3. If Fully pumped is it a Y-Plan (with 3 port motorised valve) or S-Plan (with 2-port motorised valves)?
Finally what version of the Hive have you ordered? The single channel is for combi boilers and provides only heating control. The dual channel is for systems that also have stored hot water (ie a hot water cylinder)
Get some Bees. 
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The Horstmann 425 coronet connections are as below.
The wire in E goes to the Hive earth tether
The wire in N goes to the Hive N
The wire in L goes to the Hive L
The wire in 4 (timed output 'ON') goes to Hive 3 (Heating On)
Add a wire link to connect the Hive L and Hive 1 (Common) terminals
Depending on the original wiring method used, if there is more than one wire in any of the terminals, all of the wires will need to be moved accordingly.
Finally, because the Hive carries out the functions of a thermostat as well as providing time control, the old wired thermostat needs to be decommissioned to prevent it overriding the Hive. It can't simply be disconnected as this would leave the wiring 'open circuit' and the heating will not operate. The existing room thermostat can be decommissioned in several ways, here are a few. Number 1 is the professional way to do it.
1. Find the origin of the cable that goes to the thermostat. Note where the wires are connected and disconnect the cable. Then add a link between the terminals where the two ‘live’ switching wires have just been removed from so that they are connected together.
2. Remove the existing thermostat and replace it with a junction box, connect the two ‘live’ switching wires together and isolate / insulate the neutral (if there is one)
3. Leave the existing room thermostat in place and join the ‘live’ switching wires together in a separate connector that you can tuck away in the corner of it.
4. Alternatively the original thermostat can simply be set to its maximum setting. However there is always a risk of it getting inadvertently moved, and if it's battery powered the batteries will have to be maintained.
The wire in E goes to the Hive earth tether
The wire in N goes to the Hive N
The wire in L goes to the Hive L
The wire in 4 (timed output 'ON') goes to Hive 3 (Heating On)
Add a wire link to connect the Hive L and Hive 1 (Common) terminals
Depending on the original wiring method used, if there is more than one wire in any of the terminals, all of the wires will need to be moved accordingly.
Finally, because the Hive carries out the functions of a thermostat as well as providing time control, the old wired thermostat needs to be decommissioned to prevent it overriding the Hive. It can't simply be disconnected as this would leave the wiring 'open circuit' and the heating will not operate. The existing room thermostat can be decommissioned in several ways, here are a few. Number 1 is the professional way to do it.
1. Find the origin of the cable that goes to the thermostat. Note where the wires are connected and disconnect the cable. Then add a link between the terminals where the two ‘live’ switching wires have just been removed from so that they are connected together.
2. Remove the existing thermostat and replace it with a junction box, connect the two ‘live’ switching wires together and isolate / insulate the neutral (if there is one)
3. Leave the existing room thermostat in place and join the ‘live’ switching wires together in a separate connector that you can tuck away in the corner of it.
4. Alternatively the original thermostat can simply be set to its maximum setting. However there is always a risk of it getting inadvertently moved, and if it's battery powered the batteries will have to be maintained.
That’s great thank you very much for writing this up.
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