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So it’s either the Hive or you may have more than 1 issue. What did the temperature reach on the front and how quickly?



I don’t mean to throw a spanner in the works, but your PlumbCenter one is a 3 wire installation and appears you only have 2 wires. It’ll work, but will be subject to large temperature swings (known as hysteresis). If you just want a thermostat using 2 wires, better with a battery operated 2 wire type - plenty available.I've bought a plumb centre thermostat which I will fit tomorrow.
You’re welcome.Thanks for your help on this
I would agree, given...I don’t mean to throw a spanner in the works, but your PlumbCenter one is a 3 wire installation and appears you only have 2 wires.
The integral timer also doesn't work
As you mention issues with the boilers integrated timer, it may be worth considering the dial stat as a temporary measure?and I just had to put the integral timer on constant and it worked no problem
Might be better to call a boiler service guy in to attend and carry out a service on the boiler. Service would entail removing the burner ( boiler is 8 years old and I am assuming this is outstanding). Check the electrode gaps and clearances conform, clean burner and clean / flush the coils. Clean the condensate trap and pressurise the expansion vessel. Gas rate the boiler and flue gases be analysed for 8.4/ 8.7% co2 readings.Ok thanks what's the best way to link it? I don't have those u bend connector that come with boiler in the PCB
May I ask what you mean here?UniOP, leave the boiler alone as you might end up getting hurt or damage the boiler
has the wiring terminals accessible without doing that.baxi platinum 24 ERP
I believe they are simply referencing the yellow wire link that would have originally been in place on the wiring terminals....I don't have those u bend connector that come with boiler in the PCB

I hope those risks are well understood.a plumber by trade but never did my gas etc but I do understand how it all works

Whoops, I forgot to zoom in.I would agree, given...
View attachment 372505
However, the flex to the thermostat is a 4 core + earth. There looks to be plenty of slack in the cable at the thermostat end. If there is some at the boiler end, the cable can be stripped back at both sides - the blue wire can be connected to N on the boiler, and to terminal 2 on the new stat.
What we have here is a simple task that needs a little holding of hand but poster is asking questions that suggests he may struggle a bit. More so, getting the boiler serviced properly and faulted will be beneficial.May I ask what you mean here?
Whilst we often warn against opening up a boiler, because it will disturb the room sealing, the...
Poster is saying he does not have the U link. A thinking person would get a piece of wire and create a linkMay I ask what you mean here?
Whilst we often warn against opening up a boiler, because it will disturb the room sealing, the...
has the wiring terminals accessible without doing that.
When the OP say...
I believe they are simply referencing the yellow wire link that would have originally been in place on the wiring terminals....
View attachment 372515
Yes, there is always a risk of harm from the electrical work we suggest, but in this case, there is little difference from the many other thermostat changes we guide people through.
And as we are talking to...
I hope those risks are well understood.
Although a boiler service is a good idea, if the boiler fires reliably with terminals one and two bridged out, and the integrated timer set to 'cont', that strongly suggests an external control issue.
Agree with you to a point on that. I know from previous an 8 year baxi/ Potterton boiler will have electrodes a double decker will drive through ( unless these have been replaced), detector electrode be out of shape, condensate trap will be full of sediment plus the gas valve drifts. With all this in mind I posted my reply with autocorrect throwing spanner in the worksAlthough a boiler service is a good idea, if the boiler fires reliably with terminals one and two bridged out, and the integrated timer set to 'cont', that strongly suggests an external control issue.
Thank you.Agree with you to a point on that. I know from previous an 8 year baxi/ Potterton boiler will have electrodes a double decker will drive through ( unless these have been replaced), detector electrode be out of shape, condensate trap will be full of sediment plus the gas valve drifts. With all this in mind I posted my reply with autocorrect throwing spanner in the works
No offence take. Appreciate your comments.Thank you.
I know and appreciate your experience - I really wasn't trying to have a go; just trying to understand the getting hurt comment, when we attempt to help many people with these type of electrical connections.
It's almost worth the site having a disclaimer for DIY electrical work - ensure safe isolation, don't attempt work unless you understand what you're doing and the consequences of getting things wrong etc. ?![]()
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