My induction hob glass cracked so I bought a replacement, same manufacturer almost identical but not exact same model.
The hob is on its own circuit, 6mm T&E RCD protected, 32A MCB. Cooker isolation switch is in cupboard adjacent.
Anyway I wired it in at it was wired before - 6mm T&E into the terminals. Fiddly but done, all works.
Now, I read the instructions after fitting (!) and it mentions wiring with a heat resisrtant flex (HO5BB-F or HO3V2V2-F)
Now I can't readily find the flex (which makes me wonder if commonly used) but if I can I can't wire back to the isolation switch as some of the wire is in the wall.
Should I use suitably rated (32A or greater) junction box under hob into a small length of flex or leave it be? Is junction box reasonable, it's readily accessible by removing the top drawer under the hob. My reading suggests it's not uncommon for them to be wired directly in 6mm T&E however.
What would you do? (And I'm perfectly happy to hear "I'd get an electrician fella" if I'm way off!)
The hob is on its own circuit, 6mm T&E RCD protected, 32A MCB. Cooker isolation switch is in cupboard adjacent.
Anyway I wired it in at it was wired before - 6mm T&E into the terminals. Fiddly but done, all works.
Now, I read the instructions after fitting (!) and it mentions wiring with a heat resisrtant flex (HO5BB-F or HO3V2V2-F)
Now I can't readily find the flex (which makes me wonder if commonly used) but if I can I can't wire back to the isolation switch as some of the wire is in the wall.
Should I use suitably rated (32A or greater) junction box under hob into a small length of flex or leave it be? Is junction box reasonable, it's readily accessible by removing the top drawer under the hob. My reading suggests it's not uncommon for them to be wired directly in 6mm T&E however.
What would you do? (And I'm perfectly happy to hear "I'd get an electrician fella" if I'm way off!)
