Honeywell Automatic Bypass Valve noise

[Johntheo5]

I think its almost universally accepted that 1 meter = 100 mbar so if one reads the scale as meters then good enough? since the pump head is normally in meters.

 

[Madrab]

Ah ok - yep ... fair enough, didn't think about that - of course, direct correlation

 

[kofi2003uk]

Thanks chaps

I have 1 radiator with no TRV so I guess that helps as a bypass as well? So effectively I have the ABV and also a rad as bypass.

 

[Mister Banks]

When I had my WB system boiler installed the installer fitted a Honeywell DU145. To set it up all he did was shut the ABV off fully and with both motorised valves closed adjusted the ABV until he felt heat on the return pipe connection.

 

[Mister Banks]

Thanks chaps

I have 1 radiator with no TRV so I guess that helps as a bypass as well? So effectively I have the ABV and also a rad as bypass.

Are you on an s plan or y plan?

 

[kofi2003uk]

I have 2 separate motorised valves. One for heating and other for hot water. I believe that’s an s plan? Thanks

 

[Johntheo5]

Thanks chaps

I have 1 radiator with no TRV so I guess that helps as a bypass as well? So effectively I have the ABV and also a rad as bypass.

Yes, but when the CH zone valve closes does it also stop the circulation in that rad with no TRV?, if it does, then no good, because the main purpose of a ABV is that it allows circulation to cool down the Boiler HEX for a few minutes with circ pump overrun, does the circ pump run on for a few .minutes when all zone valve close?

 

[kofi2003uk]

Oh I see your point. Yes it does stop all hot water to all rads.
You are right. I might as well have a Trv on that too and hopefully save a few quid

Yes pump runs for a few minutes before shutting down

Thanks

 

[Johntheo5]

Suggest leaving that rad as is because you do need a minimum flow which may not happen if all rads are TRVd, unlikely that all will fully close at the same time but you never know?.
I installed a normally open motorised valve in place of a ABV a fair few years ago for a friend, it closes as soon as any zone valve opens and opens when all the zone valves are de energised to close.
So either that or as suggested above shut the ABV and just open it enough on pump overrun until downstream side just gets warm/hot or simply install a gate valve alongside of, or instead of the ABV.

 

[kofi2003uk]

Update- so far ABV nearly silent so you were absolutely right with turning pump down. Many thanks

 

[Johntheo5]

Is the ABV setting still set to 2?.

 

[kofi2003uk]

Tbh I don’t even know as the whole thing came apart ie the red cup and the inner black plastic with the numbers on . I only know it’s 3.5 full turns clockwise, from close position but have no idea what that translates to on the numbers on dial. From complete closed , it takes about 12 complete turns clockwise to full open it so am guessing a 3.5 turn will probably be about 2-3 on the dial. Dial has 6 as max number on it
Sorry I clearly don’t know much about this ABV
Thanks

 

[Johntheo5]

What about your "Whistling TRV" post #3??, is it still whistling??

 

[kofi2003uk]

Ha yea but that’s my son’s place. Still whistling after changing valve, turning the lock shield to max , bleeding it , so am running out of ideas. Only thing we haven’t done is turn pump down

Thanks for noting that post