Hoover soft wave washer dryer 1100 NO POWER

[sheer1delight]

Have you got power into the machine as far as the on /off switch?

Are you getting a voltage at the on/off switch.?

As an aside are cables to pump secure attached to terminals as this used to be a weakness on some Hoover machines.

 

[Burro]

Checked for continuity from the plug, through the mains to the switch and is ok.

Cables to pump...?
where is the pump located?

Thanks for all your efforts
Burro

 

[sheer1delight]

Pump sits on bottom of washer on right hand side looking from rear. Two wires come from top of machine past water inlets and down side of machine.( Remove rear panel to see). They attach to terminals on the pump. If I recall if they come adrift the machine will not function. Just make sure they are on tight.

Was this machine performing OK to present. Was it moved or did it just die in situ.

I appreciate it is more complicated with having a drier.

I know you say you have continuity through to switch. Have you checked for and got mains voltage at the off/on switch. If you have got voltage through to the appliance it should do something when you turn the programmer through the programs.

Does this model have a programmer with circuit board attached at the front as opposed to some that have horrendous circuit board hiding under the drum.

 

[Burro]

latest updates..
checked for voltage, it' 240 at mains filter then I have continuity,,,
the programmer with the circuit board is at the front... opened it up couldn't find any fault neither.

The pump and all the connections are tight.

I am having this problem since working on bricks and generating HUGE amount of dust.
I have blown some air on circuit and parts....

Many thanks
Burro

 

[sheer1delight]

Can't see dust doing anything.

Did you actually open up programmer or just look at it?

If you remove programmer from front crossmember leaving all wires attached ensure that all edge connectors are fully pushed home and that spade connectors are on tight- they usually are very tight. Any sign of damage to circuit board with tracks blown off or badly burnt?

If you are getting power to the programmer something should happen when programmer turned through stages- valves opening. pump running,drum turning etc.

Should be possible to check that voltage through to appropriate spade terminals.

You must have a mountain of washing by now!

 

[Burro]

Actually one day I found the fuse in the plug was blown and the plug itself slightly melted around the fuse.
Replaced the plug and fuse but...with no success

I opened the programmer and checked for continuity (from/to door switch)
it was ok.
Are you suggesting that I check for voltage while operating the programs?
would continuity be enough?

Unfortunately I am spending a fortune at my local laundrette

Thanks a lot for your help, you are keeping me alive
Burro

 

[sheer1delight]

Was the machine doing anything when the fuse blew Was it in the middle of a program? or did the fuse blow when you switched the machine on?

Something must have caused the fuse to blow!
I don't understand about opening the timerr! This is the steel/aluminium box that the selector shaft from the program knob turns in. You can't really open it up without removing from the machine. this box fits on to the circuit board that delivers/receives signals from/to valves, thermostats etc. Have you examined circuit board to see if tracks on it are OK and haven't blown off because of a short circuit!

Have you got 240 volts at the filter where the live and neutral leads from the filter start to disappear into the wiring of the machine. does your meter register 240 volts!

If it does then power should be going to the programmer timer.

I would then have suspected the door microswitch and suggested you by pass it as you sometimes cannot be sure that the door catch actually activates it even though it engages the latch. this would necessitate joining a piece of wire between the two leads to the microwsitch -MAKING SURE YOU HAVE MACHINE OFF AT MAINS bEFORE DOING THIS AND ADEQUATELY INSULATING THE JOINING WIRE AND TERMINALS FROM THE CHASSIS. Turn on at mains and switch on a program and if micro switch was faulty the machine should start.

If nothing check tht fuse still intact incase power to appliance has caused fuse to blow again.



If this

 

[Burro]

I have the multimeter that reads 240V at mains filter (on all the 4 connections).
I've removed the box behind the programs knob and checked it, it looks ok, there is continuity.

Actually I realized about the fault once I had to start a washing, after having filled in the machine.
By bypassing the doorswitch you mean having to connect the 2 wires (both blue)?

Thanks a lot
Burro

 

[sheer1delight]

Burro

Yes the two blue wires at the microswitch. Unplug machine first of all, Then pull wires off switch and then bridge them with a piece of wire making sure the wire makes good contact with the connectors and everything is insulated from the metal of the machine. Then turn on a mains and try a program. If machine starts then you need the interlock repaired.

If this doesn't work you will ned to check for continuity from filter through to programmer for live and neutral with power off.

 

[Burro]

Done the microwitch test but still nothing.

there is continuity to everywere,
sometimes the live or the neutral end in a board and many wires come out but all seems ok.

How do I check if the motor is gone.

Thanks
Burro

 

[sheer1delight]

burro

I thought you had given up!

The motor should have nothing to do with things. If the power is going to the board then when the programme is set to a wash or rinse the valves should open, the pump should pump out water and the drum should turn all depending on where yoi are inthe cycle, There should be some sort of life.

If there is power going to the board and the neutral is present at the board then something should happen as the program knob is turned.

As the fuse blew before are you sure that having by passed the door switch that the fuse has not blown again, While fuses can break down through time they usually blow because of a short. We cannot be sure what happened. However if the fuse has been replaced and the original fault has not been repaired one would think that the same existing fault would blow the fuse.

Are you sure that none of the tracks on the Printed circuit board have not gone open circuit-evidence of burning?

With the machine off can you trace continuity from live in at filter to where it enters the board. Likewise with neutral - from filter to main switch, door microswitch and to else where on the machine and to the blue terminals on the board. Remember some neutral wires disappear to front of drum underneath gasket and are not readily visible from above.