I have an Aquarius Dishwasher which is not cleaning dishes etc., properly. I have cleaned all filters, checked the spray arms are not clogged, but cannot see what the problem is. Instead of running the outlet hose through the standpipe, I also tried running the outlet hose along the ground out the door in case there was a blockage in the pipe but it seemed to empty OK. The only fault I can see is that although I fill up the salt compartment, the salt light comes on with the next wash indicating the salt is empty already. I am also using a good detergent which has the grease inhibitor. Now and again the dishes do come out clean but I cannot rely on the machine working properly. Can anyone suggest what the problem is? Many thanks.
Hotpoint Aquarius DF62 Dishwasher Problem
- Thread starter dibsdiy
- Start date
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So its still heating and doesn't take any longer than usual to complete the programmes?
Are both spray arms definately rotating throughout the programme? You should hear water spraying, alternating between upper and lower spray arms.
Are dishes in both upper and lower trays dirty?
Are both spray arms definately rotating throughout the programme? You should hear water spraying, alternating between upper and lower spray arms.
Are dishes in both upper and lower trays dirty?
Thank you for your reply Yardie. When the cycle has finished, the dishes are hot on the drying process. They are clean but have a rough coating on them and glasses are misted. I am not sure how to tell if the arms are going round and the inner door and bottom of the inside of the machine are splattered at the end of the cycle and not clear as they used to be. Thanks for any help.
Ok so heating sounds ok.
On some machines both arms rotate at the same time, other machines they rotate alternatively controlled by a divertor valve.
You should hear water gushing around unless its a super silent machine.
Put a metal bowl/pan on the lower tray, water will hit the pan and make much more noise, then put it on the upper tray.
On some machines both arms rotate at the same time, other machines they rotate alternatively controlled by a divertor valve.
You should hear water gushing around unless its a super silent machine.
Put a metal bowl/pan on the lower tray, water will hit the pan and make much more noise, then put it on the upper tray.
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Thank you Yardie. I tried putting a tray in, when in the bottom of the machine it filled up. There is one rotating arm in the bottom of the machine and one under the top tray. Both arms were in different positions when I opened the machine a few times while it was running and the water was filling presumably on the initial salt intake. I don't understand why although I filled the salt container before the last run, it now shows empty. Also, I didn't think I was able to put as much salt in as I normally used to, barely 1kg. I can hear the water swishing around though.
So sounds like its circulating ok.
When it fills it is direct from the mains, it is only during the cycles that water from your salt container is added into the tub via a solenoid valve. There is a sensor attached to the salt container that detects salt level, rarely go wrong.
Some machines need to complete an 'intensive' programme, or similar, before the salt light will go out. You may know different specific to your machine from experience/use or in the manual.
Try a quick wash to see if the washing tablet is dissolving properly i.e water getting to correct temp / quick enough. But sounds as though its not properly detecting how clean the water is, turbidity sensor or salt water is continually being fed into the tub, stuck solenoid valve.
You could try using the machine without salt to eliminate this possibility, get out what salt you can or turn the salt level setting to high to use it up quicker. Then see the results whilst no salt is present.
Are the programmes taking longer than normal/as they should?
When it fills it is direct from the mains, it is only during the cycles that water from your salt container is added into the tub via a solenoid valve. There is a sensor attached to the salt container that detects salt level, rarely go wrong.
Some machines need to complete an 'intensive' programme, or similar, before the salt light will go out. You may know different specific to your machine from experience/use or in the manual.
Try a quick wash to see if the washing tablet is dissolving properly i.e water getting to correct temp / quick enough. But sounds as though its not properly detecting how clean the water is, turbidity sensor or salt water is continually being fed into the tub, stuck solenoid valve.
You could try using the machine without salt to eliminate this possibility, get out what salt you can or turn the salt level setting to high to use it up quicker. Then see the results whilst no salt is present.
Are the programmes taking longer than normal/as they should?
Thank you for your reply Yardie. When checking the rotor ams etc., earlier as you suggested, I let the machine run on after but had not refilled the salt. At the end of the cycle, the glasses that I had left in there had come out perfectly clean and the machine itself didn't have any more splattering around it. I think it is taking the usual amount of time to complete a cycle. I can only see one setting which is in the rinse aid container and this is set on 3, I am in Sussex and the water is fairly hard round here. Thank you for your help with this.
The water softener dial is either:
Just inside the salt cap
Dial around the edge of the door frame (cabinet, not actually on the door)
Inside the tub on the left panel where theres an air vent
If electronic could be a sequence of button presses
Just inside the salt cap
Dial around the edge of the door frame (cabinet, not actually on the door)
Inside the tub on the left panel where theres an air vent
If electronic could be a sequence of button presses
Thank you for your reply. All the salt has now gone. Do I need to get someone in to repair this or can I run it without salt? I usually rinse dishes well before putting them in the machine. I appreciate all the help and time you have given to this problem.
Does running it without salt solve your problem?
What will eventually happen is that limescale will build up on critical inner parts, heating element being one of them.
It will reduce the life span of the parts and overall of the machine itself.
You will begin to notice white limescale on the trim of the door and on the door seal, although this is not a major problem it is a sign of scale build up.
Either have a water softener installed that serves the entire household or get the fault fixed.
Whats strange is that the salt sensor light is not going out even when salt is added so the problem may be more than just the valve.
If you or partner can use a meter might be able to solve the problem or at least eliminate potential faults.
What will eventually happen is that limescale will build up on critical inner parts, heating element being one of them.
It will reduce the life span of the parts and overall of the machine itself.
You will begin to notice white limescale on the trim of the door and on the door seal, although this is not a major problem it is a sign of scale build up.
Either have a water softener installed that serves the entire household or get the fault fixed.
Whats strange is that the salt sensor light is not going out even when salt is added so the problem may be more than just the valve.
If you or partner can use a meter might be able to solve the problem or at least eliminate potential faults.
Thank you for your reply, I think I will have to get someone in to fix the fault for me. When I add salt, the salt sensor light does go out until the salt needs refilling again. As it is something I don't seem to be able to deal with, I'll call an engineer in next week and will let you know how I get on. Again, many thanks for the time you have taken to help me, it is much appreciated.
If it is indeed the water softener solenoid valve stuck open it is easy to replace even for someone with little technical know-how
A replacement is only about £10-15.
The only tool you should need is a philips screwdriver.
If however the valve is being permanently fed 240v then the problem lies on the main control board and would need someone with a meter to prove this is the case and to resolve the fault.
If you want to replace yourself let me know, I will need a couple of photos though to identify the part for you.
Might be worth trying to replace yourself for a few pound rather than an engineer who will probably charge £50+.
A replacement is only about £10-15.
The only tool you should need is a philips screwdriver.
If however the valve is being permanently fed 240v then the problem lies on the main control board and would need someone with a meter to prove this is the case and to resolve the fault.
If you want to replace yourself let me know, I will need a couple of photos though to identify the part for you.
Might be worth trying to replace yourself for a few pound rather than an engineer who will probably charge £50+.
Thank you for your reply, I don't have a meter and am not sure whether the valve is permanently fed or not. The machine is from 1999 and in very good condition - apart from this hiccup I've never had any trouble with it. I do try to do most things myself and can manage the screwdriver bit and it would be great for me financially. Do you think because of it's age it is not permanently fed? I have tried to find a diagram on the net but not successful. Thank you for your help.
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