Hotpoint FDL570 - Dispenser leak

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Hey all

My trusted Hopoint Aquarius dishwasher has started to develop a leak. The rinse aid is coming out of the unit and gathering at the base. This is happening even when it's idle and I can't cure the trickling.

I noticed yesterday the rinse aid refill light illuminated far too soon. What's concerning is as soon as the door is lifted near vertical, it pours out of the rectangular (oval ended) slit as well as the actual housing that attaches to the metal.

I've tested how bad the leak is by putting kitchen roll at the bottom and it's soaked already.

Do I now have to replace this part?

I'll end up flying through rinse aid at this rate.

I inherited this appliance and had to split the innards (front plastic lid from metal casing) as the screws had rusted and welded shut. Not to mention ripping all the polystryrene.

This means if I open it up, the retaining screws may not hold again as I had to do a modification to make it fit.

I fear it may be a new dishwasher :'((
 
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Unscrew the rinseaid cap on the rinse aid tank and check the seal on it. Is it in good condition?

Many tablets contain rinse-aid in them these days. Like tesco's 5in1. I have had no issue with these at all. So you can stop using separate rinse-aid and ignore the light. It is not a requirement for the dishwasher to run.
 
Hi Dishman.

Sorry for the confusion but it isn't the circular cap that's leaking. The rectangular slit that sits to the left of it has the rinse aid coming out.

Lid has to be flat to stop it.

I appreciate your point RE all-in-one tablets as I've got the fairy platinum 10 function tablets.

Yes, I could just use these but with the finish rinse aid on a normal cycle (dishwasher full to hilt) the stuff comes out mega shiny and dry.

I'm unsure if the tablets only will give the same results

IMG_20180727_201715.jpg
 
Ahh, that suggests it is an issue with the release control. This will either be a failure in the mechanism on the rinse aid tank, or a failure on the control panel which controls when to activate it.

Have you tried turning the machine off, waiting, and on, as a kind of reset or using the rest button, however the manual tells you to do it.

Failing that (as a simple on/off is a long shot) it needs testing...

I found this good guide.


In this instance he diagnoses that it is sending a signal incorrectly. Which sounds possibly similar to your issue.

However, rather than condemn the whole control board, if you feel competent, you could give it a once over to see if there is a component that looks to have failed, and replace it yourself.

New board = north of some stupid price

New component = a few £
 
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Hi Dishman

Thank you kindly for that video. I will most certainly check it out. However, please understand that due to having to modify the lid originally, I may have to put this down as a loss.

Basically, I've had to pilot self taper screws in to the top as the control board retaining plastic pins snapped. Without this method, the lid would not hold in place.

I'm 90% sure if I opened it all up again I'd lose the original tension on the screws into the sheet steel where the polystyrene sits.

I'm gutted really this machine has done me well.

I am considering a new Hotpoint model as I'm aware this model uses 16lt per wash and the newer ones use like nearer 9 and are far better.

Should I consider a new one?
 
My Bosch (circa 18 years old) is still going well. In that time I have replace the motor and a few seals, a heater relay on the circuit board and one of the buttons that popped out, and a gunked up water inlet pressure switch. Looking at the models around today, they are not much different, dishwashers are very simple machines.

In fact, looking at a modern cheap model a relative got recently, the build quality is far less than mine.

The rinse air container is a bit leaky too in fact, I put this down to the seal. Although thinking about it, it could be a similar situation to you. It just does not lose it all at once, but the whole tank slowly drains over a few washes.

However, I have not had an issue running it without liquid rinse aid. I just use tesco's all in one. I do not normally get marks or dirty dishes.

Make sure the filters are clean. Make sure it is running clean. Run it through with some dishwasher cleaner at hottest wash. Every so often I remove the door seal and give it a clean with a toothbrush as a lot of gunk gets built up around the seal.

Also make sure the salt container for water softening is topped up.

Then try it without rinse aid.

I would keep it going till it dies.

As long as the dishes get clean. Yes, modern ones may use less water, but if you use the longer eco setting on yours (assuming it has one) then it should save water that way.

Personally, I would not go to the expense of spending money to save a bit of money (assuming you pay metered prices).

As the rinse aid thing is so minor, I would try it without.

P.S. How are the panels held together at the moment? Did you re-use the screws? Or use something un-orthadox?

Edit: just re-read your post. So to clarify, you have used normal screws in the door to hold front fascia on?
 
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I'll try and explain this as best as I can and if your struggling to understand, will happily post a pic.

Where you pull the door open, the top of the lid that hides underneath the unit has 2 fabricated holes with piloted bits into the mild sheet metal lining.

A self tapered screw binds the metal to the plastic covering. Without this method, the door doesn't shut correctly and the plastic lid warps due to being unsecured.

This was caused by the programmer control section plastic nibs that hold the top section snapping when I tried to remove it as they were jammed. So much for cleaning the buttons ha ha.

You only see the screws when the lid is open so it doesn't bother me at all.

As for a new machine, we ended up ordering a new one. Yes, I know your probably cringing and asking 'Why?' but I can only go so far with this dishwasher after this 'bodge'.

If the dispenser unit fails completely; I'm screwed. In fact, if any electronics fail that involve removing the front section or fascia I've got problems.

Basically, the holes drilled won't re-thread if I undo them thus, the door close issue. Not to mention the original screws inside the door that just spin. To repair that, I'd have to re-pilot/thread 8 new holes & screws.

Not a hard job I hear you say yes but it's mither.

Tbh, I could sell it but I'd 100% have to advertise it as a faulty unit due to the dispenser issue and of course, on moral grounds. Someone would essentially be buying my problem.

Having said that, with the current market for dishwashers in terms of basic models and their asking prices, doubt I'd get anything for it as it does definitely show it's age as hard as I've cleaned it.

Maybe just the parts? Who knows.
 
No cringe here.

If you think it has served it's time, then to the great scrapheap in the sky it goes. I just like seeing things repaired, or at least an attempt made where possible. People should know how to repair things within reason.

I dread to think of the number of appliances that are binned due to worn carbon brushes, or a dodgy cable.

But, if it is falling apart, you can only do so much.

Lots of cheap dishwashers on ebay as you say. If you don't mind stripping it then selling the parts is an option. You could see if a local white goods shop will take it for parts.

Other than that, council skip.

At least you tried!
 
I really do admire your honesty. Oh and not to mention, your enthusiasm for repairs!

I'll know who to ask if I ever do get problems. I'll be around that's for sure it's a fantastic forum.

Take care buddy and thanks for your time (y)
 

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