Thanks for all your help, I have only just had a good look at both boards side by side and they are slightly different, would that matter? i told them the correct model and the fact that it was a v4 version but the relays have different values on them, the old ones all say10A 250VAC 85 c then underneath 6A 250VAC 105 c but the new ones all say 10A 125VAC
hotpoint WF321G Acting Oddly
- Thread starter RobGuest
- Start date
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You beat me to it...hold on while I edit this post.
Ok...You didn't send the old board??? pcb versions can vary (even in like models). I'm not sure why they would mount 125v relays on a 230v board? I would make a quick call quoting the details on the old board & the full model details (including commercial code, s/n, etc). This is getting stranger and stranger
Ok...You didn't send the old board??? pcb versions can vary (even in like models). I'm not sure why they would mount 125v relays on a 230v board? I would make a quick call quoting the details on the old board & the full model details (including commercial code, s/n, etc). This is getting stranger and stranger
well i am going to send both boards back tomorrow, as i was supposed to have sent the old board back last week cos it was a unit exchange, im glad i hung onto it, so do you think that is definately the cause of all my problems? if not i got the double glazing company fone number ready!!! lol
Who knows We rarely fault-find pcb's down to component level unless it is a Miele board (because they are so unbelievably expensive). I think I would suspect the pcb, yes...but if that turns out to be right or not only time will tell. You must feel pretty frustrated by now While you're waiting for a clarification on the pcb perhaps you ought to get your contacts in the rewind business to bench test the motor thoroughly on a variac, check tacho output etc & maybe load it a little to see how it behaves. I am pretty sure it is good but it never hurts.
We rarely fault-find pcb's down to component level unless it is a Miele board (because they are so unbelievably expensive). I think I would suspect the pcb, yes...but if that turns out to be right or not only time will tell. You must feel pretty frustrated by now While you're waiting for a clarification on the pcb perhaps you ought to get your contacts in the rewind business to bench test the motor thoroughly on a variac, check tacho output etc & maybe load it a little to see how it behaves. I am pretty sure it is good but it never hurts.Sponsored Links
extremely, the thing is me and my wife and kids moved into a furnished rented house for just over a year and the mother-inlaw's washing machine broke, so we lent them the hotpoint, we only got it back when we moved again 2 weeks ago and we got 4 kids, the latest (and final) is a 3 week old baby boy so as u can prob imagine, the washing is taking over our kitchen!!
and we got 4 kids, the latest (and final) is a 3 week old baby boy so as u can prob imagine, the washing is taking over our kitchen!!yes i think i may just do that, hopefully the work will pick back up soon so i can get back into it, cos as frustrating it can be sometimes, i loved it! can borrow the megger while i am there to test the heating element.
Your OP mentioned a blown capacitor leg...was it C17? If so you will find several excellent posts on the forum regarding these (sometimes troublesome) little chaps. Like this one //www.diynot.com/forums/viewtopic.php?p=1468257#1468257
appologies, it was not a capacitor it was a transistor at Q9 right next to J4 connector.
J4 is associated with the door switch!
If the door switch is defective it could easily blow a new pcb I would disregard the note saying pressure switch. I have never experienced a faulty pressure switch taking out a pcb...& remember; this isn't your original pcb that has been repaired...it belonged to someone else! Send the original & new pcb back & explain the situation, they are usually very understanding. You may need a new door switch & pcb.
If the door switch is defective it could easily blow a new pcb
I would disregard the note saying pressure switch. I have never experienced a faulty pressure switch taking out a pcb...& remember; this isn't your original pcb that has been repaired...it belonged to someone else! Send the original & new pcb back & explain the situation, they are usually very understanding. You may need a new door switch & pcb.i dont think it is the door switch,it locks when water is in the drum and unlocks a minute or so after, also it has caused no damage to the re-con pcb, the leg that blew off, if i follow the track it runs to J1 which is the main power feed i believe, the other side runs to pin 3 of J4. and i do not think the pressure switch caused the pcb to blow, i think it was either the pump was stalled due to all the change in the filter or there was a little damp on 1 corner of the board, but i could not find any leaks so i do not know if it was just condensation, the new board is totally dry though.
Regardless; at least get them to check out your old pcb. They have board schematics, we usually don't have that advantage. You are right J1 is 230v feed to the board, J4 is the door switch, & J3 the pressostat circuit. A stalled or jammed pump/impellor would not normally blow a pcb unless the winding actually shorted out. In essence any electrical short on the machine can potentially blow the pcb, they are sensitive. And Indesit electronics have a poor reputation; they are amongst some of the most unreliable around Post the full machine details as stated on the door label.
Post the full machine details as stated on the door label.both boards are going to be sent off today, so as long as i get 1 working board back i do not care if its the re-con or the original one, its a hotpoint not an indesit, machine details are as follows : WF321G 805150105.
ah ok, as you can see, im no washing machine expert lol
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