How difficult is it to sort out rising damp??

[Arjay12345]

Hi

My rising damp problem seems to be getting worse. In the words of my surveyor when I bought the house 2 years ago:

"Ground levels around the base of the walls need to be cut back and reduced so that there is a separation gap of not less than 150mm between the damp proof course and ground level. On the front elevation and around the bays the render continues to ground level. This will bridge any damp proof course within the wall structures and will allow moisture to be drawn up over the damp proof course".

At the time, I got a quote for a local firm to remediate the problem. They suggested essentially:

- Cut back render to expose ground level.
- Remove soil etc to correct depth below DPC.
- Paint liquid DPC to wall below render."

The problem was they wanted to charge 3k for the privalege - something I couldn't afford.


My question is, bar the hard slog, is there any real skill to this, or is it simply getting my angle grinder out, cutting along a line above the current slate DPC, and then slapping on some liquid DPC? I've done far more complicated stuff round the house since..

I need to render the entire external house (17k according to same contractor), so the damp job does not need to be an uber supreme finish just yet

Thanks

 

[dann09]

Mark a line say, 50mm above the DPC - use a stone blade in an angle grinder to cut to the line, knock off the redundant render.

Re-grade the soil to 150mm below the DPC.

No chemical/liquid "damp proofer" is required.

Nothing happens fast in Damp or Timber decay, unless there is a health problem, you have time to do things in an orderly, logical manner.

 

[Arjay12345]

Thanks for that. A couple of questions:

- I assume when you say 'regrade' you mean shovel out soil until there's a gap of 15mm below the DPC. How far away from the house wall should the new soil line remain?

- Re not using a liquid or chemical damp proofer, do you think the contractor suggested as a precautionary additional measure? Damp is proving to be my biggest headache so as long as it doesn't increase the problem, I'd prefer to add to prevent possible future new rising damp issues.

Thanks..

 

[JohnD]

if you invite into your home someone who sells damp-proofing treatment, you can expect him to try to sell you damp-proofing treatment.

The source of the problem that you have mentioned is ground level around the house. Start by digging that away. When you ask about distance, it sounds like you are planning a trench rather than re-levelling. how high is the ground? Is it a path, patio, flowerbed? The earth will tend to fall back into your trench unless you build a retaining wall or a very shallow slope. it may also cause water to run towards the house.

How many airbricks have you got so far, and have you unblocked them yet?

How old is the house?

Painting the wall will prevent moisture in it from evaporating; so, don't.

please post some photos

 

[Arjay12345]

I didn't have a problem with him trying to sell damp proofing treatment... I just didn't expect it to be so much!

Anyway, I have two situations:

- Along the side alley and throughout the rear of the house, the patio slabs stop approx 20cm away from the walls; a gravelled trench fill the gap, but I need to investigate how deep the trench is, what's at the bottom, and which way the bottom slopes. I'm hoping this piece is simple enough both in taking the soil line down, and cutting away enough of the render above the dpc line and fitting a bell drip, etc

- The front of the house is more tricky - against the bay windows are flower beds. A trench seems like the only option. Re-leveling isn't possible due to the large bushes and plants in the flower beds. I need to think about how I wall off the trench - perhaps decking board placed verticallyheld in place with attached spikes driven downwards. Sounds reasonable? Or maybe a course of bricks which will be a more longer term solution? But how wide should this trench be wall to wall?

From memory I have airbricks every 2/3 meters. House was built in 1930s.

Ok - won't paint then

Thanks