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How do I hardwire this replacement oven?

Discussion in 'Electrics UK' started by Live&Learn, 19 Feb 2021.

  1. Live&Learn

    Live&Learn

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    Hello.

    I hope you're all keeping safe and well.

    I have bought a replacement built in oven in my new house without realising not all ovens are built equally.

    This was my old oven (and current hob) https://www.beko.co.uk/built-in-fan-oven-and-ceramic-hob-package-qsf212x

    The new oven is rated at 3.6kw. The manufacturer states that "it needs 16amps". The cooker came with a cable that ends in bare wiring. My cooker and hob sockets are connected to a control panel as pictured.

    I understand that the only way to know if my wiring is good enough is to find the thickness of the cable. I can't see any writing on the grey cable.
    DSC_0434_noexif.JPG DSC_0433_noexif.JPG DSC_0435_noexif.JPG
    What do I need to do please?

    Thanks.
     
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  3. EFLImpudence

    EFLImpudence

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    What is the rating of the fuse/circuit breaker that controls the cooker circuit?
     
  4. EFLImpudence

    EFLImpudence

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    The hob states it is 5.8kW which is 25A which is too much for a plug/socket and the 1.5mm² cable - although neither looks damaged by overheating.
     
  5. EFLImpudence

    EFLImpudence

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    Assuming the cooker circuit is satisfactory, I would suggest you fit one of these -
    https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AA45DCOP.html

    You will need to fit a back box in or on the wall for it.
    Then connect both the hob and oven to it with 2.5mm² heat-resistant flexible cable (or the flex that came with the oven).
     
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  6. Live&Learn

    Live&Learn

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    I'm not sure about the circuit board fuse, I'll take a look.

    I did think that 5.8 is way too much for the hob. Crazy.

    Thanks for the link.

    I will update
     
  7. Live&Learn

    Live&Learn

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    OK, looking at the circuit board, i believe it is 32A.

    Please see the photos. The labelling is done by myself. I'm not really sure what the leftmost fuse is for. I did have a previous immersion tank boiler which I got replaced with a combi boiler last year, but the leftmost fuse does not disable the new combi boiler.


    Any comments?

    Thanks.
     
    Last edited: 21 Feb 2021
  8. sparkwright

    sparkwright

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    Can you get a clearer image of the electrical rating plate of the hob?

    Maybe a photograph of the inside of the hob plug would give us a better idea of the cable size.
     
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  10. Live&Learn

    Live&Learn

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    Yes of course:

    DSC_0443_noexif.jpg DSC_0442_noexif.jpg DSC_0441_noexif.jpg
     
  11. sparkwright

    sparkwright

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    1.5mm2 flex.

    It appears to be 3 core.

    As seen on the middle picture, you can use 5 core 1.5mm2 flex but not 3 core.

    I can only assume you use just one or two rings at a time, if the 13 amp fuse in the plug hasn't blown.

    Best follow EFLI's advice, and remove the socket, and connect the two appliances as he described - changing the hob flex for 3 core 2.5mm2 heat resistant flex.

    Be sure to connect the hob correctly, as shown in the diagram using 2.5 3core flex.
     
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  12. Live&Learn

    Live&Learn

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    All done and working. I used the flex that came with the oven.

    Thank you so much for your help.

    I can't thank you guys enough.

    Yes, I only use two rings at a time, but only God knows how many rings the previous occupants used (or they replaced a blown plug just before putting the house on the market). I'm looking to replace the hob in the near future so I used the existing hob cable (yes, it is only 3 core, 1.5mm, but I will be replacing the flex with the correct one tomorrow when the store opens). Are electric hobs usually around 5.8 KW or is this one unusually high?

    Finally, does the back box really need to be so big? Used the "related" back box: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AADCSB.html but there is SO MUCH empty space when done.
     
    Last edited: 21 Feb 2021
  13. JohnW2

    JohnW2

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    That's pretty typical. With four of them, that's a little under 1.5 kW each (less than an electric kettle).

    Don't forget that they are thermostatically controlled, and will hence be cycling on/off, very rarely 'in step' - so, even though they might add up to 5.8 kW if all 'on' simultaneously, in practice the average over any appreciable period of tuime would be a lot less than that, even if you were using all four.

    Kind Regards, John
     
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  14. EFLImpudence

    EFLImpudence

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    (y)

    Finally, does the back box really need to be so big? Used the "related" back box: https://www.tlc-direct.co.uk/Products/AADCSB.html but there is SO MUCH empty space when done.[/QUOTE]
    I am not sure about the surface boxes, to be honest, the one you link to does seem unnecessarily deep - perhaps someone else will know.

    The cooker outlet will fit on a one gang flush back box because it doesn't matter that it overlaps a bit.
     
  15. Taylortwocities

    Taylortwocities

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    Some cooker circuits are wired in 10mm² cable. You need all the space you can get when terminating that stuff.
    That’s a baby. My Neff induction is 7.4Kw!
     
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  16. DIYnot Local

    DIYnot Local

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