How feasible is it to dismantle kitchen units and then reassemble?

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Hi all

I have standard kitchen units, I want to get access behind) below them to try to identify source of draught. To do this I'd have to carefully dismantle carcass, leave sink/worktop supported in place and then rebuild.
Is this feasible for someone with limited DIY experience?
 
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Its likely that the worktop will be supported by the cabinets, so unless you are intending to remove one cabinet at a time its unlikely you'll be able to do what you want.

Post a photo of the cabinets you want to remove if you want a better response.
 
Hi all

I have standard kitchen units, I want to get access behind) below them to try to identify source of draught. To do this I'd have to carefully dismantle carcass, leave sink/worktop supported in place and then rebuild.
Is this feasible for someone with limited DIY experience?
Yes if you consider yourself patient and capable. But you will need to make some temporary supports to keep worktop and sink etc in place.

The cabinets are likely to be joined together too and not all fixings may be obvious, behind back panels or similar.

But if you have time and patience yes
 
Just carefully cut the backs out with a multitool, refix afterwards with some battens.
 
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Just carefully cut the backs out with a multitool, refix afterwards with some battens.
This

To identify a draught you just need the backs out of the cabinets.

usually they are in a groove and pinned to a top rail.

as they are generally set forward, you can fix battens where the groove is and screw them back in place
 
You don't dismantle, you disconnect the cabinets, wind the feet up a bit then pull out. The following cabinet to cabinet connections are possible: purpose made cabinet connectors (silver or white, mostly) and screws - i tend to hidecthese vehind shelves (as above), but also beneath hinges, beneath drawer runners, down unused shelf peg holes, up at the very top of the cabinet and at the very back where they normally won't be seen. Be aware that there are some miscreants who screw cabs together in the service void, which you'll never be able to access once the top is on unless you cut the back out :LOL:

Similarly the top can be screwed to the cabinet through the nailer (the horizontal rail at the top at the front just behind the door), through small angle plates in the end panels (sides), a d white plastic plug on or screw in fixings in place of the brackets is always possible. Wooden tops should be secured with buttons to allow movement. Granite worktops are often siliconed on

Thr cabinet may also be fixed to the wall. The plastic plug type stand off is easy enough to remove but where people have bracketed behind the cabinet back in the service void, you'll need to cut the back out

The final gotcha is plumbing. There are some individuals who insist on drilling through the "gable ends," in the service void and passing pipework through the holes as opposed to notching the backs. That requires the back to be cut out and a bit of work with a multitool to modifyvthe cabinet so it comes out

One thing to consider is that there is generally a LOT of plumbing beneath a sink in the unit and that the rear bearer, the vertical flat piece of material that connects the two end panels genetally cannot be removed with the cabinet in situ, and furthermore is trapped in place by the sink bowl and plumbing - so thatvis the one cabinet which cannot be slid out
 
Thanks all for the replies.

The picture below shows the cupboard I want to take the back out of.
Please ignore water damage on the front
Screenshot_20221206_213906_Gallery.jpg


Screenshot_20221206_214053_Gallery.jpg
 
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If that is the unit beneath the sink it won't come out, as I said above, because the rear stretcher/bearer will foul on the sink bowl preventing it doing so. There is also, normally, a lot of plumbing in the way. So the best you can do is to cut the back out (in which case I will guarantee stuff will fall down the back)
 
Can you get the kick panels off?

I had gaps between floor boards and wall. Was very draughty.
I reached in and sprayed expanding foam to fill the gaps. Messy stuff if you haven't used before.

Have recently seen a similar post and there was a suggestion to stuff loft insulation under the cabinets to stop the draughts.

One of the above might be a better solution for you?
Providing one of the Pros doesn't say they are bad ideas :)
Probably need to watch out for cables with foam/insulation. Particularly higher current such as Cooker.
 
Probably need to watch out for cables with foam/insulation. Particularly higher current such as Cooker.
A recent post in the electrical section by John W2 suggests this is not something you need to be concerned about with expanding foam. Another poster says it can affect plastic plumbing parts though.
 
Just take off the kick panel , you will be able to see underneath . Strange way to identify a draught though.
 
Just take off the kick panel , you will be able to see underneath . Strange way to identify a draught though.
Issue is that I want to see and get access to the inside of the external wall. At the moment I can remove the kickplate and feel a draught but can get close enough to the wall to see where it's coming in
 

buy one of these - it may help to see what you are up against?
as suggested, you can remove the backs of most cupboards as they are often just glorified hardboard/thin MDF
if worried, cut a square hole slightly (25mm ) smaller than the back so that some back is retained.
you can then buy white faced board to cover it up.
 
The options you have with a sink cabinet are limited:

1. You can remove the plinth, but that only gives very limited access

2. You can empty the cabinet out then cut the back out, but that means an awkward repair to fix it afterwards (if it can be fixed)

3. You can disconnect the sink from the sink waste and water supplies, remove the sink and drainer, then pull the cabinet out. This is a very labour intensive process and you may find it difficult to get things back together depending on your level of experience.

If it were me I'd go for option 2. I've made and fitted kitchens, and I think I'd hesitate to go option 3 myself.
 

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