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How long before bonding problem becomes evident on skim?

Discussion in 'Plastering and Rendering' started by Freemantle, 22 Feb 2017.

  1. Freemantle

    Freemantle

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    A friend has just had a significant amount of plastering work done.

    This was skimming on solid (sound) plaster with some sort of silk paint covering.

    I've seen a couple of pictures and it is showing some evidence of poor workmanship (careless finish, gouged, spots missing etc)

    My concern is, that given the apparent low quality that there could also be an issue with the prep / bonding, that is not immediately obvious (in addition to the cosmetic issues)

    The short question is - how long before a bonding issue would become evident? (ie plaster falling off the wall). I know the answer is probably "it varies" - but presumably drying is a key stage - so would this mean that problems would become evident in 1-2 weeks?

    From my understanding the prep should have involved a grit? I believe that the work speed has been 1 room per day (including any prep).

    I'm asking my original question so I can help them determine the best course for remedial action/agreement (and not have further problems appear down the road, after agreement has been reached).

    Any help would be appreciated.
     
  2. London Mike 49

    London Mike 49

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    Walls that have been painted usually need a coat of blue grit ( pva mixed with grit ) to help adhesion but sometimes if the wall is uneven or if the plasterer scored the surface, then that is enough to provide a key for the plaster.
    Plaster relies on suction to help it adhere to the walls and if the walls absorbed some of the moisture from the plaster then it may well be okay. If it fails it will take up to a year to become evident then it's a case of scrape off as much of the plaster as possible and re coat .

    I hope this helps
    Mike
     
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  4. Freemantle

    Freemantle

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    Thanks Mike, I've had look at the job and it's pretty poor, so payment disputed and not allowed back on site (attempts to fix are no better).

    From what I can ascertain, scoring and PVA, which I believe may be the least preferred option. Unfortunate that any bonding problems may not become apparent until further down the line, but fingers crossed.

    Does anyone know, on an internal angle that is not 90 (i.e. sloped ceiling meeting the wall, or bay window internal angle), should these be done with a something like a thin coat stop bead (or are these for external angles) or is it usual to do this "freehand" - this area is particularly bad (although original line was wavey).
     
  5. stevethespreader

    stevethespreader

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    On the angle on those particular slopes done freehand they can also be made into a curve
     
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