How much to change a TRV please?
- Thread starter Stephen19
- Start date
Hay Softus you wouldn't believe what I am expected to do for £22.50 and I take full responsibility and I deal with any recalls in my own time.
Such as being given a radiator to fit at 6pm get there 7pm because of distance and other jobs in system, turn up it's a different sized rad pipework doesn't fit dot and dabbed plasterboard but with no dots or dabs in sight. And you are looking at £22.50 but make sure you get it perfect.
Or ideal Isar leaking condensate from the inner flue which Ideal have stupidly made from aluminium expansion vessel rupture pcb shot by the water damage. You have to chisel out the flue remove boiler from wall fit expansion vessel, prv, and flu adapter piece reassemble refit to wall reseal flue re glue condensate which fell to bits in the process, fill in a stupid computer be nice to customer and retreat like it was all a breeze. £22.50 ker ching!
Oh and now if a job is going to take you more than 45 minutes (that would be all my jobs then) phone despatch to inform them.So aswell as juggling the job with both hands you have to keep breaking off it to make phone calls to people who you might aswell be telling the widget is a 3 hr widget not a 45 minute one. No sense that the person you phoned has any way of making sense of the information you are giving them.
Such as being given a radiator to fit at 6pm get there 7pm because of distance and other jobs in system, turn up it's a different sized rad pipework doesn't fit dot and dabbed plasterboard but with no dots or dabs in sight. And you are looking at £22.50 but make sure you get it perfect.
Or ideal Isar leaking condensate from the inner flue which Ideal have stupidly made from aluminium expansion vessel rupture pcb shot by the water damage. You have to chisel out the flue remove boiler from wall fit expansion vessel, prv, and flu adapter piece reassemble refit to wall reseal flue re glue condensate which fell to bits in the process, fill in a stupid computer be nice to customer and retreat like it was all a breeze. £22.50 ker ching!
Oh and now if a job is going to take you more than 45 minutes (that would be all my jobs then) phone despatch to inform them.So aswell as juggling the job with both hands you have to keep breaking off it to make phone calls to people who you might aswell be telling the widget is a 3 hr widget not a 45 minute one. No sense that the person you phoned has any way of making sense of the information you are giving them.
the only risk free way to diy a valve change is as softus says, drain down, any other way Is asking for trouble. you get to see the system water quality, change valve in relative comfort, add inhibitor for your own piece of mind and learn how to refill your system.
drain it down, flush it through, change valve (check others while at it) add inhibitor to system, fill and vent, test system, all luvly jubbly, no dramas.
no chance of a disount if he buys you a national express day saver. jocks so very very tight fisted
You do not know me at all, so why would you wish my repair to go wrong and then have a 'larf' at my expense?
How old are you btw? I suggest you buy some nappies if you wet yourself so easily.
Im done with this topic now so feel free to move on. Sincere thanks to the positive posters, plenty for me to consider (you know who you are).
I thought that you were self-employed, Paul, but I get the feeling that something has changed.
S
Soggy_weetabix
I thought that you were self-employed, Paul, but I get the feeling that something has changed.
DIYNOT? Excatly. So...
Drain but dont drain
My job does this...well, my job does this
Use this....no use this
Stop thinking your all right, bringing your work into it and just accept that different people give different advice.
Let the person do the job, step back and be glad you have given you honest opinion. Blooooody hell, If I came here for plumbing advice I would be very disillusioned by the topic you have all commented upon.
Dave
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OH look, now the usual gang are here to start turning the thread into something its not.
I havn't noticed anyone else offering to advise this guy how to do it properly.
All I have said is how I'd suggest doing it with the disclaimer that I'm no pro so he should seek out more info first.
My question on why the TRV is to be changed has still not been answered.
And no matter what proliferating you may do, changing a TRV is not something that cannot be accomplished by a DIYr.
Guess what, you dont need to go to college nor be Corgi registered to do it.
Softus, I put tape on the threads because thats what I have always assumed needs doing, perhaps I'm wrong to do that but in the past doing it has stopped the odd leak.
If you think that its wrong to do this then perhaps instead of just quoting me on it, suggest why not and how changing the TRV should be done.
Cheers all.
I havn't noticed anyone else offering to advise this guy how to do it properly.
All I have said is how I'd suggest doing it with the disclaimer that I'm no pro so he should seek out more info first.
My question on why the TRV is to be changed has still not been answered.
And no matter what proliferating you may do, changing a TRV is not something that cannot be accomplished by a DIYr.
Guess what, you dont need to go to college nor be Corgi registered to do it.
Softus, I put tape on the threads because thats what I have always assumed needs doing, perhaps I'm wrong to do that but in the past doing it has stopped the odd leak.
If you think that its wrong to do this then perhaps instead of just quoting me on it, suggest why not and how changing the TRV should be done.
Cheers all.
You haven't read the topic very thoroughly then, because there's plenty of solid advice for which the OP has already thanked people.
Correct. You're not a professional, and you don't have much insight into all the pitfalls and the plethora of things that can go wrong.
That's why the OP has been the help and support that will enable him to do the work himself.
I love seeing PTFE on threads, because it means that the last person working on the joint was a numbskull and therefore there will be lots of easy things to put right.
Can you explain just why you think it will have any purpose?
Where did you get the idea from? Were you taught to to that anywhere or by anyone?
Just why do you think that it stopped any leaks. Did you ever remove the tape and found it leaked and then stopped if you refilled with tape?
The reality is that only the thread which does the sealing needs to be taped! All the colleges teach the correct method ( as far as I am aware! ).
Tony
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Having not gone to college to learn about exactly where PTFE tape should & should not go I am of course not as aware as you where it should go.
Thank you for the correction, the next time I have to do any DIY plumbing I will try not using it & see how it goes.
Thank you for the correction, the next time I have to do any DIY plumbing I will try not using it & see how it goes.
The simple answer is that PTFE tape is only required on a male fitting which is screwed into a female as on the tail on the TRV where its screwed into the radiator.
No PTFE is required on the olive and certainly not on the thread of the compression nut !
If the olive connection is damaged or otherwise in a poor condition then PTFE can be used around the pipe and inner side of the olive to effect a workable repair. The best solution is always to replace the olive and ( usually ) the pipe.
Tony
No PTFE is required on the olive and certainly not on the thread of the compression nut !
If the olive connection is damaged or otherwise in a poor condition then PTFE can be used around the pipe and inner side of the olive to effect a workable repair. The best solution is always to replace the olive and ( usually ) the pipe.
Tony
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