How to do 5m "horizontal" valley
- Thread starter bazmdiy
- Start date
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Taken from the BLM link:-
'The reliability of T-Pren has been proven by over 30 years of use without recorded failure. '
I have been personally using T-Pren for over 20 years with no comebacks.
No manufacturer offers an 'end of life' guarantee
'The reliability of T-Pren has been proven by over 30 years of use without recorded failure. '
I have been personally using T-Pren for over 20 years with no comebacks.
No manufacturer offers an 'end of life' guarantee
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The end result should look like this...... I soldered a down stand on the end to help direct the water into a hopper head.
The end result should look like this...... I soldered a down stand on the end to help direct the water into a hopper head.
woody - I've already been put off using big length lead thanks to comments on the problem.
Harmetalking - Bituthene stuff looks the business. I was going to use a damp proof mebrane then GeoTile as a lead underlay. I had thought of other materials than lead but there is quite a lot of dressing to do and lead will nicely match the rest of the house.
Right now I've decided to go with 2 x 2m and one 1m sections...(unless somebody shoots me down!)
<< 2m << drip up << 2m << drip down >> 1m >>
Code 5 lead
The 2x2m drain to pitched eaves. The 1m drains to flat roof. Because the middle bay will be higher than the rafter ends the slates will need to start a little further up the rafters but that is acceptable.
Thanks for all your input - I would have probably messed up the job without it.
Harmetalking - Bituthene stuff looks the business. I was going to use a damp proof mebrane then GeoTile as a lead underlay. I had thought of other materials than lead but there is quite a lot of dressing to do and lead will nicely match the rest of the house.
Right now I've decided to go with 2 x 2m and one 1m sections...(unless somebody shoots me down!)
<< 2m << drip up << 2m << drip down >> 1m >>
Code 5 lead
The 2x2m drain to pitched eaves. The 1m drains to flat roof. Because the middle bay will be higher than the rafter ends the slates will need to start a little further up the rafters but that is acceptable.
Thanks for all your input - I would have probably messed up the job without it.
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Not sure what you mean by drip up and drip down but I think you're asking for trouble on that pitch if the lead isn't joined properly. The t-pren joints have been around for years and I haven't seen one fail yet.......
Code 5 isn't enough and it's going to be very expensive if done properly in lead.
Yes bituthene first then geotextile on top, this should avoid condensation, allow the lead to move and help with sound deadening.
Code 5 isn't enough and it's going to be very expensive if done properly in lead.
Yes bituthene first then geotextile on top, this should avoid condensation, allow the lead to move and help with sound deadening.
That is from marketing blurb. The actual manufacturer information only states a 10 year guarantee - which is a bit concerning. Why wont they guarantee it longer?
"without recorded failure" is also a bit misleading. Many failures will not be reported back to the manufacturer. How many roofers or lead workers would report roof probelms back to the manufacturer. Hardly any.
Can this product really have a 100% non-failure rate over what, 25-30 years?
I take on board your successful use of this joint, and I know of its successful use on some jobs but I still think there is a risk - especially if there are other options
We use T- Pren everyday on copper, zinc, lead and stainless steel. We offer a lifetime guarantee with all of our work. Never had a problem with the product.....
I think the main worry is the durability of the rubber with all the weather and UV thrown at it for long periods. We always make caps to cover the rubber to protect it from direct weather and help prolong it's life.
As a company we have used T-Pren for over 40 years and haven't had a failure yet so we will continue to use and guarantee it.
The product is only as good as the installation.......
I think the main worry is the durability of the rubber with all the weather and UV thrown at it for long periods. We always make caps to cover the rubber to protect it from direct weather and help prolong it's life.
As a company we have used T-Pren for over 40 years and haven't had a failure yet so we will continue to use and guarantee it.
The product is only as good as the installation.......
On a 5m run of valley if done in stainless steel it wouldn't need to have any joints and could be made perfectly level, the more joints you introduce you increase the risk of leaks.
It could be done in zinc or copper to the same effect but this would be my recommendation.
It could be done in zinc or copper to the same effect but this would be my recommendation.
If you went for lead the material cost including fixings and expansion joint would be around £400 the material cost including fixings for stainless steel would be less than £100 and I'm pretty sure the labour cost would be the same for both.........
T-Pren isn't a new product I can honestly say I've been using it for years!
T-Pren isn't a new product I can honestly say I've been using it for years!
T Pren have been about for years, and the only failure i've seen was due to donuts putting a boot through them when cleaning gutters. HMT mentions capping the exposed neoprene , that sounds like best practise to me.
Personally if i was doing it it would be in HT felt with a lead chute at either end, but that would be just as expensive as HMT's quote for stainless.
Personally if i was doing it it would be in HT felt with a lead chute at either end, but that would be just as expensive as HMT's quote for stainless.
But would you give a lifetime guarantee Xenon??
I was waiting for someone to say that......
It's more asthetics than protection but I'm sure it does more good than harm
It's more asthetics than protection but I'm sure it does more good than harm
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