How to fix gap between door and lining

[James1979]

This is completely my fault but I’ve fitted a new internal door (it’s a solid pine, part-glazed door) but when I scribed it, I’ve set it up wrong and have taken about 4-5mm more off the sides than I should have (2.5mm more off each side).

this is an issue as the latch only just catches the plate and doesn’t hold the door shut. I know the easy answer is buy a new door but it was pricey so would rather not.

can I add a strip to the lining to make it thicker and to close the gap (then fill, sand, paint so it doesn’t really show) or are there any other ways?
Thanks.

 

[StephenStephen]

If you're painting the door then I'd suggest gluing and screwing a strip on the closing side of the door itself - just make sure you recess or remove the screws before shooting it to fit. I'm also wondering, if you're happy living with the gaps, whether you can put in a catch in the door that sticks out further - a roller ball for example - thought that's a bit of a bodge and might annoy you for ever?
I'm personally always reluctant to reduce the opening size, just in terms of getting furniture in and out.

 

[johnny2007]

What colour are you painting door and frame?

 

[foxhole]

This is completely my fault but I’ve fitted a new internal door (it’s a solid pine, part-glazed door) but when I scribed it, I’ve set it up wrong and have taken about 4-5mm more off the sides than I should have (2.5mm more off each side).

this is an issue as the latch only just catches the plate and doesn’t hold the door shut. I know the easy answer is buy a new door but it was pricey so would rather not.

can I add a strip to the lining to make it thicker and to close the gap (then fill, sand, paint so it doesn’t really show) or are there any other ways?
Thanks.

Catch should easily reach a few extra mm .

 

[James1979]

Thanks for replies. It’ll all be gloss white so should be easy to hide a small extra strip. I agree with not reducing opening but I think a 6mm x 46mm piece of strip wood attached on closing side of lining would be best and I’ll try that.

the catch does just about reach but only just so if you give it a tug, it doesn’t hold so have to do something I think.
Thanks again- will post update after attempt to fix!

 

[johnny2007]

Thanks for replies. It’ll all be gloss white so should be easy to hide a small extra strip. I agree with not reducing opening but I think a 6mm x 46mm piece of strip wood attached on closing side of lining would be best and I’ll try that.

the catch does just about reach but only just so if you give it a tug, it doesn’t hold so have to do something I think.
Thanks again- will post update after attempt to fix!

Yes, your solution will work and the gloss white will hide imperfections.
Make sure you fill and sand properly all joints.

 

[lynchnigel]

This is completely my fault but I’ve fitted a new internal door (it’s a solid pine, part-glazed door) but when I scribed it, I’ve set it up wrong and have taken about 4-5mm more off the sides than I should have (2.5mm more off each side).

this is an issue as the latch only just catches the plate and doesn’t hold the door shut. I know the easy answer is buy a new door but it was pricey so would rather not.

can I add a strip to the lining to make it thicker and to close the gap (then fill, sand, paint so it doesn’t really show) or are there any other ways?
Thanks.

Why not glue a strip on the door if it's a solid door. On the catch side (clapping side), plane it down once it's set you can cut the catch back in

 

[conny]

I'd be tempted to glue a strip on the hinge side, (rightly or wrongly), then the catch would move closer to the catch plate. You wouldn't need to sink the hinges into the door and the opening will still be the width it should be.

JobandKnock is the best guy for advice on this. See what he says if he comes on.

 

[lynchnigel]

I'd be tempted to glue a strip on the hinge side, (rightly or wrongly), then the catch would move closer to the catch plate. You wouldn't need to sink the hinges into the door and the opening will still be the width it should be.

JobandKnock is the best guy for advice on this. See what he says if he comes on.

The hinges would then need packing out unless there's a larger gap towards the hinge side.

 

[johnny2007]

It doesn't matter where you add the strip of wood, it will all be filled, sanded and painted white.

 

[James1979]

Thanks for the advice everyone. The door isn’t being painted white - only the lining - the door is being waxed as it’s a rustic type antiquey look so I’ve put a 6x46 strip wood on the catch side of the lining, filled and sanded it. The door needed a tiny bit planing off it to be perfect but it’s worked very well and all sorted.

Thanks for the help.

 

[lynchnigel]

Thanks for the advice everyone. The door isn’t being painted white - only the lining - the door is being waxed as it’s a rustic type antiquey look so I’ve put a 6x46 strip wood on the catch side of the lining, filled and sanded it. The door needed a tiny bit planing off it to be perfect but it’s worked very well and all sorted.

Thanks for the help.

Nice one glad to hear you got sorted.