How to I wire behind Kingspan K17 insulated plasterboard?

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Hi- Converting an integrated garage into kitchen, and Mr. Building Control man says I need dot and dab K17 onto existing walls to insulate correctly.

I want to do any laborious channelling to wall sockets (two cables to each socket, dropping from ceiling, in new ring) before I get the electrician.

Is the cabling to sockets required to be part cut into the cement render and fed through conduit (metal? earthed?) or can it sit in the dot dab void in e.g plastic conduit, or can I even cement it into channels in the wall first?

Thanks.
 
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Hi- Converting an integrated garage into kitchen, and Mr. Building Control man says I need dot and dab K17 onto existing walls to insulate correctly.

I want to do any laborious channelling to wall sockets (two cables to each socket, dropping from ceiling, in new ring) before I get the electrician.

Is the cabling to sockets required to be part cut into the cement render and fed through conduit (metal? earthed?) or can it sit in the dot dab void in e.g plastic conduit, or can I even cement it into channels in the wall first?

Thanks.

Clip conduit to the wall then cut a chase in the K17 to accomodate the tube.

Edit - Note to self, read all the posts before replying. :oops:
 
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[Clip conduit to the wall then cut a chase in the K17 to accomodate the tube.

If you offer up the k17 to the job finished on the wall and bump it, when you take it away for chasing there will be an imprint of the chase area.

Dry lining boxes are fine, all you have to do is clear the bits of insulation behind the board where the dry line box clamp tabs close on to the inner board skin.
 
You mean we've managed to work what the Hell some of the actual regulations are ?!

At the risk of spoiling it all (!) should the conduit be under the rules of 50mm deep/ earthed metal or plastic? And sorry... but.... As cable mustn't have insulation on, can the K17 insulating layer be tight around the conduit? Sorry to risk upsetting things when everyone seemed so happy!
 
[Clip conduit to the wall then cut a chase in the K17 to accomodate the tube.

If you offer up the k17 to the job finished on the wall and bump it, when you take it away for chasing there will be an imprint of the chase area.

Dry lining boxes are fine, all you have to do is clear the bits of insulation behind the board where the dry line box clamp tabs close on to the inner board skin.

The material being used was well knocked about by the time it was in situ and ready to put up so they marked the tubes with chalk or something similar [like cr%p of the floor].

Glad to see this seems to be a popular way of cabling.
 
You mean we've managed to work what the Hell some of the actual regulations are ?!

At the risk of spoiling it all (!) should the conduit be under the rules of 50mm deep/ earthed metal or plastic? And sorry... but.... As cable mustn't have insulation on, can the K17 insulating layer be tight around the conduit? Sorry to risk upsetting things when everyone seemed so happy!

If plastic and less than 50mm RCD required, if metal and earthed any distance no rcd- simples.....

Conduit in insulation is treated the same as conduit surface, think about it the cable is contained in the conduit and any surface around the conduit is irrelevant.
 
You mean we've managed to work what the Hell some of the actual regulations are ?!

At the risk of spoiling it all (!) should the conduit be under the rules of 50mm deep/ earthed metal or plastic? And sorry... but.... As cable mustn't have insulation on, can the K17 insulating layer be tight around the conduit? Sorry to risk upsetting things when everyone seemed so happy!

If plastic and less than 50mm RCD required, if metal and earthed any distance no rcd- simples.....

Conduit in insulation is treated the same as conduit surface, think about it the cable is contained in the conduit and any surface around the conduit is irrelevant.

Personally I consider it as 'in insulation' at least that way its erring on the side of caution. I must check OSG.
 
(two cables to each socket, dropping from ceiling, in new ring)
Can you not run horizontally between some of them?

Are you sure a ring is the most appropriate design?


before I get the electrician.
You must engage an electrician first, and get his agreement over how and where you run the cables. He'll be the one signing certificates to say that he did all of the design and installation and that it all complies with the Building Regulations so you can't expect him to just take responsibility for a fait accompli you present him with.

Also - from the Kingspan page on K17:

.
.
Insulation, dry-lining and vapour control in one board.
.
.

If you just cut holes for unsealed back boxes you'll be breaching the vapour control layer, which could result in condensation behind the boards. Check with the maker and/or Building Control if this is a problem in reality.
 
.... sockets ....
If plastic and less than 50mm RCD required, if metal and earthed any distance no rcd- simples.....
monkey-shaking-head.gif



Conduit in insulation is treated the same as conduit surface, think about it the cable is contained in the conduit and any surface around the conduit is irrelevant.
So why do Installation Methods 2 & 5 have different Reference Methods?

Even though the conduit is fixed to a wall I don't think that 2.5mm² will be rated highly enough to be used in a ring final.
 

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