Hi everyone. I just do not seem to be able to mitre coving corners! I have bought a mitre cutting block thing and presume the angle for ordinary inward corners should be 45degrees for both peices - but still not right! What am I doing wrong!? How do you do corners? Thanks very much for any reply.
How to mitre corners for ceiling coving?
- Thread starter PeterRayner
- Start date
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E
EddieM
When you say you can't get them right, how wrong are they? Trying to explain it is difficult, much easier to be shown how to do it.
However I cut them - they are always wrong! I understand the coving must be standing up when being cut but they still do not meet on the wall/ceiling!
I'm thinking of just using filler for the corners.
I'm thinking of just using filler for the corners.
with a mitre box your walls need to be perfect. There is another way of doing it but trying to explain over the internet is hard. If they are not to bad just fill them. sorry thats not much help but just saying your walls need to be perfect for the mitre box to work.
carl
carl
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Cove mitres and mitre boxes are a little different..
I like the wickes one, but its important to get the right size mitre for the cove.
If you walls and ceilings are uneven its a real pane.
The best tactic is to stick the cove to the wall, thats where you put the pressure,and then let the adhesive fill the gap to the ceiling.
Flick your chalkline from end to end and check you dont have any really low spots inbetween, if you do lower the chalk line around the room. I reckon you can get away with 1cm of unevenness from wall to wall.
Use plasterboard nails to keep the cove in place whilsts its setting.
If you have any really long lengths use a mitre to join them, dont butt them up, they are a real pain to fill.
Also get a fine tooth saw to cut the mitre, and make sure the cove is level whilst doing the cuts.
I did the top floor struggled like mad, then did the bottom floor in a day once i had the technique nailed.
I used lafarge cove adhesive, mixed it up in a 2.5 litre paint kettle and thats all me and the mrs could get on whilst cleaning the cove up.
I like the wickes one, but its important to get the right size mitre for the cove.
If you walls and ceilings are uneven its a real pane.
The best tactic is to stick the cove to the wall, thats where you put the pressure,and then let the adhesive fill the gap to the ceiling.
Flick your chalkline from end to end and check you dont have any really low spots inbetween, if you do lower the chalk line around the room. I reckon you can get away with 1cm of unevenness from wall to wall.
Use plasterboard nails to keep the cove in place whilsts its setting.
If you have any really long lengths use a mitre to join them, dont butt them up, they are a real pain to fill.
Also get a fine tooth saw to cut the mitre, and make sure the cove is level whilst doing the cuts.
I did the top floor struggled like mad, then did the bottom floor in a day once i had the technique nailed.
I used lafarge cove adhesive, mixed it up in a 2.5 litre paint kettle and thats all me and the mrs could get on whilst cleaning the cove up.
I had to patch a piece of coving last year and got into the same state as you. luckily I did a few cuts on a piece I messed up and worked out what the problem was.
There are 4 angles when cutting a corner.
If you put a piece of coving into the mitre and cut from front left into the centre, you have a left piece for doing the inside corner, and a right piece for doing an outside corner.
If you put a piece of coving into the mitre and cut from front right into the centre, you have similar (but different) angles.
So you use the sharp angles for the outer corner (point out) and the fatter angles for inner corners (point in)
As stated previously, work upside-down so the base of the mitre would be the ceiling.
http://www.diydata.com/decorating/coving/cutting_cornice/cutting_coving.php
There are 4 angles when cutting a corner.
If you put a piece of coving into the mitre and cut from front left into the centre, you have a left piece for doing the inside corner, and a right piece for doing an outside corner.
If you put a piece of coving into the mitre and cut from front right into the centre, you have similar (but different) angles.
So you use the sharp angles for the outer corner (point out) and the fatter angles for inner corners (point in)
As stated previously, work upside-down so the base of the mitre would be the ceiling.
http://www.diydata.com/decorating/coving/cutting_cornice/cutting_coving.php
if you are using a mitre block it will only cut mitres and coving needs a compound mitre, the easiest way is using a template and cutting by hand this is a link for 127mm template. http://www.british-gypsum.com/pdf/Gyproc_cove_127_Mitre_template.pdf
The only thing that occurs to me that hasn't been mentioned is when you put the coving in the mitre block upside down what is the top/ceiling edge needs to be the appropriate distance away from the 'wall' (the bit the bottom edge is now leaning against) of the block. For 127mm coving its about 90mm if i remember right. This measurement is basically the distance from ceiling to bottom of coving when installed, and is the same measurement you ping your line at.
M
mac2or3
Get yourself a magic mitre . http://www.magicmitre.co.uk Even if your corners are not square the template copies the angles . Quite expensive (about £40 I think ) but really good .
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