How to remove the CE mark on wood?

Discussion in 'Wood / Woodwork / Carpentry' started by lozcozard, 4 Dec 2021.

  1. lozcozard

    lozcozard

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    How do you remove the CE mark? Thought a light sand may work but no. If I have to do any more sanding it’ll take a mm or more off surely and I’d have to sand a hell of a lot of surface to match the small area where the CE mark was.

    Or will staining it hide it? I’m thinking it won’t.
     
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  3. foxhole

    foxhole

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    Why?
     
  4. mattylad

    mattylad

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    What CE mark?
    On what wood?
     
  5. big-all

    big-all

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    possibly cls
    you can only plan it out off sight' plane it out [thickness ] or cut it out [off]
     
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  7. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    You are trying to use "construction" grade timber as though it were planed timber (i.e "finished" timber), so it's possibly an inappropriate choice of material unless you don't mind the markings, I'm afraid. If you'd ordered PAR (planed all round) timber instead it wouldn't have had the grading and source, etc down the side.

    One thing you might be able to do is try to orientate the timber so the markings are on the undersides or backs where they either cannot be seen or are at least less noticeable

    These markings will sometimes sand out (with a belt sander) but the stain used so
    can go 2 to 3mm deep into the timber. You can also try bleach (the two-pack type for wood, not Domestos) or a solution of oxallic acid crystals in water, but the dyes used to mark construction timber are meant to be durable in long term exterior storage around building sites, so neither is guaranteed to work.

    If the item is already built possibly the only thing you can do is to seal the marks in with white French polish, patent knotting (brown) or a proprietary sealant such as Zinsser BIN and then paint it. You need to seal it in before painting as the purple dye the use can often bleed through paints unless sealed first. Same applies if you stain the timber where any solnvents in the coating can partially dissolve the marking dye.
     
  8. lozcozard

    lozcozard

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    Ok thanks. It’s for a canopy over front door. I forgot about the mark and it’s in a front facing post so people see it. Not very good for front of house canopy.

    my timber merchant dont have this treated wood all planed already and I’m not a carpenter or have the tools to do it, so it’s not something I’d do myself.

    exit: actually I just realised… I bought exact same timber from them last year for another canopy and it doesn’t have the stamps and it’s all nice right angled corners. So I ordered exact same part number for this front door canopy and it’s rounded corners with stamp. The right angled corners would be better for when I do the roof triangle, so so the edges are all flush.
     
    Last edited: 5 Dec 2021
  9. JobAndKnock

    JobAndKnock

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    The "part number" you refer to is probably just what they use for carcassing timber, or the stuff used to build stud walls and the like. In other words "construction" lumber. There is no guarantee that it won't have knots, pith or shakes and no guarantee that it will be square edged or eased edge (in more recent times it has more often been eased edge which as a chippy you tend to be grateful for as it is far less likely to leave you with splinters in your gloves or hands).

    For visible ("finish") work in future you ideally need to specify PAR (planed all round) or PSE (planed, square edged) to get stuff which is going to be seen and ideally specify "joinery grade redwood" as opposed to the whitewood that lower grades of PAR/PSE and CLS are got from - or even just tell the merchant what you need it for and let them suggest an appropriate material

    Only thing to do now is probably to seal it, then paint it.
     
    Last edited: 5 Dec 2021
  10. Notch7

    Notch7

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    the mark is ink dots and they do sink in a bit

    it will sand out, but you will need a belt sander really.
     
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