How tricky is solvent weld?

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I have just lost my solvent weld virginity, and although I followed the instructions on the solvent tin, I am a bit nervous as it states:
a) use solvent liberally but without puddling
b) cement within 15 seconds of priming
c) use an applicator half the diameter of the pipe
Well, I did all that but it does sound like the process takes a lot of judgement to get it right. How much margin for error is there (e.g. I think I might have left 25 seconds between priming and cementing)? And how the hell does the applicator size make any difference? Any reassurance welcome.
 
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I have just lost my solvent weld virginity, and although I followed the instructions on the solvent tin, I am a bit nervous as it states:
a) use solvent liberally but without puddling
b) cement within 15 seconds of priming
c) use an applicator half the diameter of the pipe
Well, I did all that but it does sound like the process takes a lot of judgement to get it right. How much margin for error is there (e.g. I think I might have left 25 seconds between priming and cementing)? And how the hell does the applicator size make any difference? Any reassurance welcome.

Does it really say that!? I've never read the tins, I just use it. As long as there's a good coating on the pipe, a good coating on the fitting, and you give it a twist after you've pushed them together just to make sure, it shouldn't give you any trouble at all. I've certainly never broken out the stopwatch to make sure I'm pushing them together at the right time.

You're worrying too much, and coming from the paranoia king that's saying something!!
 
HI


dont worry too much.
1.clean pipe
2.clean fitting
3.apply solvent lightly to fitting and pipe
4.leave few minutes
5.can be tested after 10 minutes.
 
Get the proper solvent cleaner and apply with white kitchen paper towels to the pipe ends and fitting insides.

Get some fittings and practice. Look inside the fitting and make sure you have not applied too much solvent glue. You do not want a ridge of glue forming at the end of the pipe since it will catch hair etc.

It's easy to pre-fab sections by pre-assembling and using a pencil to mark the alignment of the joints.

When solvent welding 110mm ffittings ditch the brush in the can...you need a much larger brush to apply the solvent quickly. Otherwise on a hot day the solvent will have dried by the time you've applied it with the smaller brush.

Personally I like Polypipe fittings since they are slim when space is tight.
 
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Get the proper solvent cleaner and apply with white kitchen paper towels to the pipe ends and fitting insides.
:LOL: :LOL:


Get some fittings and practice. Look inside the fitting and make sure you have not applied too much solvent glue. You do not want a ridge of glue forming at the end of the pipe since it will catch hair etc
.

:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:

:LOL:
It's easy to pre-fab sections by pre-assembling and using a pencil to mark the alignment of the joints.
:LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL: :LOL:




When solvent welding 110mm ffittings ditch the brush in the can...you need a much larger brush to apply the solvent quickly. Otherwise on a hot day the solvent will have dried by the time you've applied it with the smaller brush.
 
What's your problem?

You have obviously rarely used solvent weld in your life except on kitchen sinks..I don`t have a problem.. Next time you give advice don`t read it from the side of a tin... ;)
 
Nice reply Bamber :LOL:

Subtle as ever ;)



Hi Terry, seems a resurgence of the old boys may be necessary here, this site is & has been devoid of spirit lately.I for one shall march forward, unveil the hypocrites, denounce the non believers, burn the infidels & still be home for "Only Fools and Horses...."
 
Not quite sure what happened there, but thanks all for your prompt help. I am reassured.
Said joint will be stuffed behind skirting from tomorrow, so fingers crossed!
 
KITCHEN TOWEL!!!! omg!

Doesn't it break up & leave fluffy bits contaminating the joint?

IMO it would be much better to use the applicator that can usually be found in the lid of the tin :D :D
 
KITCHEN TOWEL!!!! omg!

Doesn't it break up & leave fluffy bits contaminating the joint?

IMO it would be much better to use the applicator that can usually be found in the lid of the tin :D :D

Don't you start :evil:

For all the idiots that are unable to understand.

AND ESPECIALLY FOR MATTYLAD. THE KITCHEN TOWELL DOES NOT BREAK UP USING THE CLEANING FLUID. THE BRUSH IS FOUND IN THE SOLVENT WELD TIN AND IS NOT USED FOR CLEANING (SURPRISE). ANY MORE DUMB REMARKS? HOW MANY MORE STUPID POSTINGS ARE YOU GOING TO MAKE? LAST WEEKS WAS A CLASSIC......

The manufacturers are generally the first port of call for PCB repair.

Failing that you could always try a local little TV repair shop & speak to the actual repair bod.
(thats a repair shop, not one that just sends em away).

DO THE FORUM A FAVOUR AND STICK TO ELECTRICS


THE KITCHEN PAPER TOWEL IS USED IN CONJUNCTION WITH THE CLEANING FLUID TO CLEAN THE INSIDE SURFACES OF THE FITTINGS AND THE EXTERNAL SURFACES OF THE PIPE-ENDS REMOVING CONTAMINENTS SUCH AS MOULD RELEASE AGENTS ETC THAT MAY PREVENT A PROPER WELD FROM FORMING. ALL EXPLAINED IN MANUFACTURERS LITERATURE.

YOU CAN OF COURSE IGNORE BEST PRACTICE RECOMENDATIONS...I DON'T REALLY GIVE A TOSS.

WHAT REALLY ****ES ME OFF IS WHEN SOUND ADVICE IS GIVEN TO A DIY-ER AND THE SO CALLED "PROS" ON THIS SITE DENOUNCE THE POSTING AS GARBAGE TO COVER THEIR OWN COWBOY WORK ATTITUDE.

ARE YOU STILL ILLEGALLY WORKING ON GAS BAMBER?

MODS COME ON, GET YOUR ACT TOGETHER :rolleyes: ....THERE'S BEEN SOME RIDICULOUS POSTINGS LATELY....ITS DECENDING TO SCREWFUX LEVELS.

From the Terrain MI:

Step 1 – Cut pipe square, de-burr and clean mating surfaces with 9101 Cleaning Fluid (Fig.2a) using a dry, clean, natural fibre cloth (NOT synthetic)

Step 2 – Coat mating surfaces with 9100 Liquid Weld (solvent cement), using a clean brush (Fig.2b) (Replace lid on container to prevent evaporation of cement) NOTE: Use a 12mm brush (or larger) for pipe sizes over 50mm diameter

Step 3 – Assemble joint immediately, removing any excess cement with a clean rag. Initial set: 10 minutes. Final set: 12 hours


Or from OSMA:

Solvent Weld Joints

1. Read instructions on can before using solvent-based cleaners or cement. Ensure adequate ventilation

2. Ensure all parts of the pipe or spigot and socket are dry, clean and free of dust and grit

3. Remove grease from pipe or spigot end of fitting and socket with Osma Degreasing Cleaner 4S.379/380. Apply liberally with clean non-synthetic rag or absorbent paper

4. Use the applicator provided or a brush to apply one even coat of Osma Solvent Cement (No. 2) 4S.383/384/385 to both mating surfaces. Stroke cement along, not round, the surfaces

5. Insert pipe or spigot end fully into the socket immediately NOTE: Each solvent weld joint must be completed in 1½ minutes

6. Hold for 20-30 seconds

7. Remove surplus cement from the mouth of the socket. The joint may be handled after 10 minutes and commissioned after 24 hours
 

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