Howdens vs DIY-Kitchens.com - Quality

[asnoop20]

They've come back, I can get 1ltr for £40 exc, but either pickup or a courier but it has to be a precise time and couriers won't do that. Something to sort later on, so I've ordered.

 

[johnny2007]

the door fronts don't have caps covering the hinge cutouts

What do you mean?
Never seen any cutouts on door fronts.

Op, the convenience of Howdens is that if you need something you just pop in and get it.
I fitted DIY and Howdens kitchens and Howdens are slightly easier because they have a larger service void at the back.
DIY have 40mm which is not enough for the sink waste and if you have a long run, that's a lot of plaster chasing.
Not a big deal, but still, something that they could sort by just adding a few mm extra to the void.
Other disappointment of DIY is that they don't use cam locks, they just do glue and dowels.
Tall cabinets will need screws to stay together; these won't be visible but still time consuming.
Finally, DIY doors for tall cabinets are too small.
Even with the bottom door fully up and top fully down, you'll end up with a 5-6mm gap.
Sure you get used to it, but I prefer the standard 3mm gap all around.
Said all of this, DIY doors are better quality than Howdens and cheaper.

 

[foxhole]

What do you mean?
Never seen any cutouts on door fronts.

Op, the convenience of Howdens is that if you need something you just pop in and get it.
I fitted DIY and Howdens kitchens and Howdens are slightly easier because they have a larger service void at the back.
DIY have 40mm which is not enough for the sink waste and if you have a long run, that's a lot of plaster chasing.
Not a big deal, but still, something that they could sort by just adding a few mm extra to the void.
Other disappointment of DIY is that they don't use cam locks, they just do glue and dowels.
Tall cabinets will need screws to stay together; these won't be visible but still time consuming.
Finally, DIY doors for tall cabinets are too small.
Even with the bottom door fully up and top fully down, you'll end up with a 5-6mm gap.
Sure you get used to it, but I prefer the standard 3mm gap all around.
Said all of this, DIY doors are better quality than Howdens and cheaper.

Think he meant hinge cut outs, DIY require handed option chosen at purchase.
I ran my waste down thru base so not a problem , but only around 1200mm from drain.

 

[FiremanT]

What do you mean?
Never seen any cutouts on door fronts.

Op, the convenience of Howdens is that if you need something you just pop in and get it.
I fitted DIY and Howdens kitchens and Howdens are slightly easier because they have a larger service void at the back.
DIY have 40mm which is not enough for the sink waste and if you have a long run, that's a lot of plaster chasing.
Not a big deal, but still, something that they could sort by just adding a few mm extra to the void.
Other disappointment of DIY is that they don't use cam locks, they just do glue and dowels.
Tall cabinets will need screws to stay together; these won't be visible but still time consuming.
Finally, DIY doors for tall cabinets are too small.
Even with the bottom door fully up and top fully down, you'll end up with a 5-6mm gap.
Sure you get used to it, but I prefer the standard 3mm gap all around.
Said all of this, DIY doors are better quality than Howdens and cheaper.

 

[robinbanks]

So I need a small end panel made from 2.5mm mdf (diy-kitchen end panels are 18mm). I enquired about paint and have been told...

Gonna be a bit naff that thin. Tell us more about the problem, not the issue you hit with your envisaged solution to the problem?

DIY have 40mm which is not enough for the sink waste and if you have a long run, that's a lot of plaster chasing.

Don't understand your argument: stand the units off the wall 3mm if you can't get your chosen waste system to fit (I don't seem to recall any issues)

something that they could sort by just adding a few mm extra to the void

Something you can sort by adding some glazing packers.. The void behind the cabinet is chosen by the installer?

Other disappointment of DIY is that they don't use cam locks, they just do glue and dowels.

Like flatpack you mean? If you prefer it you could order Ikea..

Tall cabinets will need screws to stay together; these won't be visible but still time consuming

I just fixed them to the wall and load the ovens, pull out larders etc into them.. Never had any fall apart through lack of screws? Did I misunderstand your complaint?

Even with the bottom door fully up and top fully down, you'll end up with a 5-6mm gap.

The one I have at home does have a 5mm gap, but the bottom door is low (can be pulled open by cupping fingers under the bottom, near the plinth)

 

[asnoop20]

The plonkers that built my house in the 80's decided for no other reason then they could to build the kitchen wall less then the standard kitchen depth. Here's a picture from dit-kitchens 3d planner.

As I've squeezed the space as much as I can there's 2-5mm between the end and the silly wall. I could bring the wall forward a tiny bit but then it won't be flush with the door which is to the right of it so it's not really a win. Or maybe a fancy triangle wall filler? hmm!

Re: service void, I spent a day removing the drywall lower down and shortening the gas inlet, which as part of the gift that keeps on giving was sticking out 15cm from the wall. It's all good now.

 

[johnny2007]

Don't understand your argument: stand the units off the wall 3mm if you can't get your chosen waste system to fit (I don't seem to recall any issues)

That's if you only have one run and a straight wall.
L shaped or I shaped kitchens must be square in my books and walls are 99% not square.
Packing here and there could end up with 15/20mm difference from wall and it's more than 3mm.
That's a slight problem when installing the worktop, unless you go for granite and that won't be your problem.

Something you can sort by adding some glazing packers.. The void behind the cabinet is chosen by the installer?

Ever seen a naked cabinet?
They come with a service void able to comfortably accommodate 40mm pipes, brackets and wall bumps.
Only DIY kitchens go for 40mm, all other makers have around 50mm, some even 65mm.
That allows cabinets to be fitted to the wall, at least at one end.

Like flatpack you mean? If you prefer it you could order Ikea..

Or solid utility cabinets you mean.
Been building all sorts of furniture for decades and never used just dowels and glue.
Leverage is not your friend, especially with tall cabinets.
Yes, once fitted in a kitchen they have nowhere to go, but in the meantime...

just fixed them to the wall and load the ovens, pull out larders etc into them.. Never had any fall apart through lack of screws? Did I misunderstand your complaint?

No, you've not misunderstood.
Don't get me wrong, I like DIY kitchens, but they could be better with little adjustments.
I've been telling them for a few years.

 

[asnoop20]

That's if you only have one run and a straight wall.
L shaped or I shaped kitchens must be square in my books and walls are 99% not square.
Packing here and there could end up with 15/20mm difference from wall and it's more than 3mm.
That's a slight problem when installing the worktop, unless you go for granite and that won't be your problem.

I'm very much expecting to have this problem as no wall in my house is straight, not by a long shot. The long side of the L is 4.5M. It's why I've been considering tiling the worktop rather than beech. Having not fitted a kitchen before I'll be learning as I go.

I think the service void is a compromise in how much space you want to lose from inside the cabinet? Being lose and fast by not burying pipes and/or keeping them neat is standard UK cost cutting. I read Ikea never used to have any service void in the UK and still don't in the EU.

 

[johnny2007]

I'm very much expecting to have this problem as no wall in my house is straight, not by a long shot. The long side of the L is 4.5M. It's why I've been considering tiling the worktop rather than beech. Having not fitted a kitchen before I'll be learning as I go.

I think the service void is a compromise in how much space you want to lose from inside the cabinet? Being lose and fast by not burying pipes and/or keeping them neat is standard UK cost cutting. I read Ikea never used to have any service void in the UK and still don't in the EU.

In EU pipes are buried in walls and floors.
Losing 10mm in a cabinet is not a problem by any standard.