HSV3 leaking. A temporary fix?

Buk

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14 Feb 2021
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My HSV3 is leaking quite badly.

I've removed the motorised switch and managed to first loosen the four rusted screws and then tighten them again which has slowed the rate of leakage markedly, but not entirely.

I get that the cure is to fit a new valve, but is there anything more I can to to stem the leak, whilst the valve is delivered?

Thanks.Buk
 
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They don't like coming out here; It'd be quicker to walk.
 
What I did.

Slackened off the bottom two screws, worked a piece of fine grade emery paper between the valve body and the actuator mounting plate with the rough side facing the plate and pulled it through a couple of times to remove any rust that had built up.

Then I took a piece of that self-fusing silicon rubber tape and worked it up into the gap as far as I could (having removed the bottom two screws) and then pushed the screws through the tape and tightened them up.

Same procedure for the top two screws.

Result: So far, no discernible leak and hot radiators on this cold day.

And time to decide whether to go for a straight replacement or switch to an HSV3B or the Honeywell equivalent.

Thoughts and opinions on HSV3 -v- HSV3B -v- Honeywell -v- Other solicited?
 
HSV3 are always prone to leakage especially if your system hasn't been filled with unicorn tears.
Honeywell have gone down hill big time but you can just buy the ball and plate kit if the spindle seizes/leaks.
 
HSV3 are always prone to leakage especially if your system hasn't been filled with unicorn tears.

The system has "inhibitor". I added myself after my radiators started springing leaks because they were rusting from the inside out.
(Or was the "unicorn tears" pure sarcasm? ;)

Why do they leak? Is it chalk buildup? Can they not be cleaned?

It bugs me intensely to replace £45 worth of cast bronze for the sake of a 2p seal.

Honeywell have gone down hill big time but you can just buy the ball and plate kit if the spindle seizes/leaks.

Are the honeywell items (part/model number) a straight swap?

Is there nothing better?
 
Flawed design...using an o ring and rotating the spindle 90 degrees several times a day wears it out. Honeywells only move about 10 degrees.

AFAIR the threads are different so you'd need to remove the olives.

All plumbing and heating equipment is junk these days...it's all off shored to the cheapest bidder.
 

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