Humidistat Wiring Issue

[leevis]

Hi
Just trying to install and extractor fan with a humidistat and can't get my head around how this is supposed to work.
This one is wired so that it is not connected to any lighting at all to it should just go on when required. Basically i have a 3 pole isolator switch outside the bathroom which goes directly to the fan where it is connected using 3 core and earth Live to Live, Neutral to Neutral and Live to Switched Live.
On the switch side i have connect Live to L1, Live to L2 and Neutral to Neutral.
When i turn on the isolator switch, the fan runs constantly and can't seem to get it to stop, i was expecting to see the LED light on the fan to switch on when powered but not go off until i got a kettle or something to make it a bit humid. I have turned both the timer and humidity controls down so i think that the wiring is wrong somewhere
Help
L

 

[Iggifer]

You want to turn the humidity control up, not down, to get the fan to go off.

According to google, the relative humidity in London is 75% today, so if it's set to 20% say, it's not going to go off anytime soon

 

[EFLImpudence]

Live to Live, Neutral to Neutral and Live to Switched Live.

You say Live to switched live.
This should be Switched live to Switched live.
If you have connected both to permanent live then it will run permanently.
If you only want it to work with the humidistat, disconnect the Switched live.

Having a live and switched live indicates you have a timer.
If you want to be able to turn it on whenever then you will need another switch.

 

[leevis]

OK, luckily i put WAGO connectors just before the fan so i can disconnect as i please, i have disconnected the switched live at the WAGO end but still can't get it to work, i will try the humidity dial and dial it up and see what happens although i have a wallpaper steamer in there to get it going and it hasn't started thus far.
Just to be clear, there is a run of 3 core and earth running from the switch to the fan
At the switch end i have one live in L1, one live in L2 and the neutral in neutral at the switch (is this correct?)
This leads to the fan where I now have two lives and a neutral (and earth)
I didn't think that it mattered which one (live) went to switched or live, this might be where i am going wrong

 

[AndyPRK]

two comments.

1) If you aren't connecting it to a light, then you need to leave switched live disconnected, else it will run all the time!

2) I didn't find mine very successful at turning on automatically (or at least the delay was too much), so I use the light to turn it on, and the humidity sensor to decide when to turn off.

 

[leevis]

I have disconnected the switched live and still can't get the bloody thing to turn on, is there a way to test that these are working? I have tried wallpaper steamer and that really should have made it turn on really, maybe its broken? that would be a pain in the bum. How long before these switch on, i thought it would be reasonably instantaneous
The reason its not connected to the light is that often there are baths when there is no need for the bathroom light to be on
This is turning out to be a bit of a nightmare
I thought that the sensor turned it on rather than decide on when to turn it off although does that mean that if there is no humidity in the room i.e. no bath and someone switches on the light, it won't go off?
I think its broken but really can't find a way to 100% test it

 

[EFLImpudence]

You said it wouldn't stop running just now.

The 3-pole isolator switch is just that.
All poles - L1, L2, & N will either be on or off.
If you want the timer (over-run) to work, you will need another switch on one of the Ls which will the go to the SL of the fan.
If you just want the fan controlled by the humidistat you do not need a SL at the fan but you must leave the 3-pole isolator on.

The humidistat will also use the timer so if the fan is running and you turn it UP to 90% it will not stop until after the set time.

There will have been instructions included with the fan.

 

[leevis]

I think fan is broken
If Isolator switch is on, i get a RED led on the fan and fan runs all the time, haven't managed to see it turn off itself.
If Isolator switch is on and i remove the switched live feed to the fan, i get a RED LED and can't seem to get the fan to turn on
If Isolator switch is off i get no RED LED and fan won't switch on at all
One funny thing though, when i turn the power on and just my non contact volt tester it beeps, but when i turn the isolator off, it still beeps ,is this normal?

 

[EFLImpudence]

I think fan is broken

Possible = but you have had it running.

If Isolator switch is on, i get a RED led on the fan and fan runs all the time, haven't managed to see it turn off itself.

It will if you have live to SL.

If Isolator switch is on and i remove the switched live feed to the fan, i get a RED LED and can't seem to get the fan to turn on

Is this with humidistat on minimum = 20% ?

If Isolator switch is off i get no RED LED and fan won't switch on at all

Well, it wouldn't.

One funny thing though, when i turn the power on and just my non contact volt tester it beeps,

Not quite sure what that means. Where?

but when i turn the isolator off, it still beeps ,is this normal?

These things are not that reliable but, again, where?

 

[leevis]

I can get it running but i can't get it to stop, i can only get it running when i turn the isolator switch to on, no activation from humidity (which is what i bought it for)
Tried all manner of settings on the humidity side and no activation
Before i connected the fan i tested the cable from the isolator to the fan (at the fan end) and i was getting a lot of beeps when it was in the ON position and a double beep (which i can find nothing in internet or instructions) when the Isolator was in the OFF position

 

[EFLImpudence]

How have you connected to the supply/feed/in terminals of the isolator switch?

 

[AndyPRK]

Well you need the isolator on for it to work else there is no power to the fan. It's common to think there are broke when they aren't.

Turn the timer delay to 0

Turn the power on and then adjust the humitidy stat from min to max.

The fan should switch at some point.

With no steam in the room set it just past the point where it swiches off. This is a good starting point.

 

[leevis]

OK FINALLY managed to get this one working with the help of all the comments above. Trawling through the internet I found that the LED light goes on when the fan is in Manual Mode. This is when it I connect up the switched live but I wasn't really interested in this as my set up is permanently on and just isolated from the switch. Anyway, to cut a long story short, I disconnected the switch live in the junction box an it worked yay
To me, I cant really understand why people connect these up to the light as it would mean that the only time it would work is if the light was on (unless there is something I am missing like the ability to have light in the room). Most people have baths a night and need the light on and it would work fine like that but there must be equally as many who bathe during the day/evening when there is no requirement to have the light on. Don't really understand this, I would have thought this was the ultimate fan set up really.
But anyway, I am happy with this one for now

 

[EFLImpudence]

To me, I cant really understand why people connect these up to the light as it would mean that the only time it would work is if the light was on (unless there is something I am missing like the ability to have light in the room).

I think you are missing the fact that a lot of bathrooms do not have a window and so the light is always required.
If you have a window then there really is no need to have a fan.

Plus, the humidistat is independent of the light.

 

[AndyPRK]

The light is just another way to signal the bathroom is in use and thus extract smells.