Ideal Icos knocking - low water pressure?

[pjblink]

there will be an easier way, but in mean time.......

keep actuator off of valve but orientate actuator to valve in your hand

set prog to hot water only

turn valve shaft to same position as actuator

if you get my drift

Sorted, and that's working Thanks for your help, can't believe it was the wrong way round??!!

 

[davebgas]

Yeay me for noticing that, along with the OP of course!!!
Has that sorted the banging by any chance???

 

[glasgowgas]

if its sorted hit your thanks button to davebgas as well

old eagle eyes spotted it first!!!!!!!!!!!!

 

[pjblink]

Not sorted the banging, i don't think - i'll run it for a while and let you know what happens. I did think the valve had gone, as it wasn't returning, but that has sorted it!

 

[pjblink]

Right, slight improvement.

I've turned the dial for the temperature of the water on the front of the boiler - from about 3/4 to under half. The boiler now runs for about 30 seconds at a time, and there is no more banging. It then switches off with a little click, the boiler still reads "c" - which indicates it's working (no error, and not in standby), and the ignitor light flashes. It waits there for a few minutes, and then kicks in again - lights up, pumps for about 30 seconds, very quiet, and then clicks off. If it was overheating, shouldn't i get an error code on the front?

I have central heating, and i have hot water. The mechanical valve is definately working, i've tested it when unscrewed from the system. However, whatever setting i get, the pipes going in either direction seem to heat up just as much as each other, both getting very hot to the touch?? I've tried manually setting the valve, same result.

Finally, how do i set this "auto bypass valve" - the white vertical knob near my CH pump?

Cheers, Patrick

 

[pjblink]

Any ideas on this? We have heating, but we also have hot hot water, i've havn't put the hot wated on in the last week. So, although the mechanical valve is working, it seems as though the valve is leaking inside? Is that likely?

We have told the landlord, so will be getting someone to have a look at it soon.

 

[pjblink]

British gas turned up yesterday. Agreed that the sound was due to overheating, so turned the stat on the boiler down, which has stopped it making it's awful noise. He also found an old pump in the airing cupboard, clogged right up. We were recommended a power flush (£740 odd). He called up half an hour later to ask us to check if he had left the tank stat at max, he had. So i flicked that back down to 55. However...

Woke up really late today at about 11am, a well earned day off, and the heating was on full blast. Got up, there was no call for heating or water (since around 8am!). The room stat was at just over 20, and the tank stat at 55. I flicked the tank stat down to 30 and the pump went off and the boiler stopped heating.

Stat back up and the boiler kicks in again - what the hell? Surely it shouldn't fire up if there's no call for heating?

 

[davebgas]

The microswitch in the MV could be sticking.

 

[shambolic]

What size are the primaries and what size is the icos(probably 24kw) if so then the primaries need to be 28mm??
Put boiler stat up to max and take a flow and return temp reading from the boiler and give us the 2 readings and that will tell us the differential.
If this is high then there is a restriction somewhere in the system or the pump is running slow

 

[pjblink]

The microswitch in the MV could be sticking.

The MV is moving though, and it's the same with the valve turned manually - is this what you mean?

What size are the primaries and what size is the icos(probably 24kw) if so then the primaries need to be 28mm??
Put boiler stat up to max and take a flow and return temp reading from the boiler and give us the 2 readings and that will tell us the differential.
If this is high then there is a restriction somewhere in the system or the pump is running slow

Im not sure where to take those measurements shambolic... And all i have is a domestic digital thermometer with probe, any good?

 

[shambolic]

Take them at the flow and return pipes leaving boiler. Do it with maximum load all rads and heat on and with minimum load on hw only and also on ch only with all rads off bar one.
Is the boiler a 24kw???

 

[shambolic]

Also turning the boiler stat down is only masking the problem as in the dead os winter yer water wont be warm enough or your rads as only 50 degrees coming out instead of 82

 

[pjblink]

Im confused. I turned all stats up, and temp on boiler to 3/4. Initially it was banging, the output pipe from the boiler was physically shaking. Then it stopped, and the boiler ran for 30 minutes or so without a noise, nice and quiet heating of water...

Readings i got then were:

HW + CH - FULL

37.5C RETURN
45.5C OUT

 

[pjblink]

Really i need a thermometer that gives me instant readings, maybe an IR thermometer, as the numbers keep rising slowly.

Im not sure what kw the boiler is, it doesnt say on the boiler or documentation.

The problem is that the boiler keeps switching off and on, so the numbers are all over the place.

What does the speed of the flashing light mean... when the boiler "clicks" off, it goes to a slow flash. When it's igniting, it flashes fast.