Hi guys,
We have an Ideal Isar HE30 combi boiler and recently it has decided that it will not supply domestic hot water and will instead send it to the central heating radiators which are now always warm/hot.
The kitchen and bathroom hot water taps are barely warm when run and the bathroom shower is stone cold when run. The boiler seems to work fine apart from the lack of domestic hot water - it goes through all of the motions on the display changing from '0' (no activity) to 't' (preheating water) to 'd' (supplying domestic hot water) and the burner comes on and stays on for however long is required.
I have it on good authority via the web, a plumbers forum and the manufacturer of the boiler that this is a faulty diverter valve head.
I have obtained the correct replacement diverter valve head and I telephoned two recommended heating engineers to see if they can fit it. The first one that I telephoned said that he would not work on this brand of boiler and he was very busy at the moment, the second has not got back to me yet.
I have downloaded the installation and servicing manual for the boiler and the diverter valve head looks like a doddle to replace. I have also checked the diverter valve head that is already in there and I cannot operate the white plastic lever on the side it does indeed seem to be stuck solid.
I've done my research and I'm fairly confident of the steps I need to take to do this myself, and was wondering if I could have a little more advice on here please from those in the know/some confirmation I have done my research correctly.
From what I gather I need to depressurise the system, which I can do either by removing a couple of cupfulls of water from the filling loop or bleeding a radiator - but do I really need to do this step?? I see conflicting information where some say you don't have to do this.
The last thing I want is to be sprayed with water.
Then I need to turn the gas supply off where it enters the house, and remove power to the boiler (I'd turn off the mains switch to the boiler system, and remove the fuse).
Then unscrew the main casing which I did yesterday of course to check I was ordering the correct diverter valve.
Remove the diverter valve by unplugging the electrical connector, giving the head an anti-clockwise turn and pull it out.
Then I need to put some high temperature silicone grease (which I already have coincidentally) on the O-ring, fit the new diverter valve by pushing it on and a clockwise turn this time then reconnecting the electrical connector.
Then I put the casing back on, turn the gas back on and the power. Then repressurise the boiler back to the correct level (1.5 bar) cross my fingers and test to see if it now operates correctly.
I am also wondering do I need a replacement O-ring at all or will the silicone grease on the old one be sufficient?
Your help would be most appreciated, thanks in advance.
We have an Ideal Isar HE30 combi boiler and recently it has decided that it will not supply domestic hot water and will instead send it to the central heating radiators which are now always warm/hot.
The kitchen and bathroom hot water taps are barely warm when run and the bathroom shower is stone cold when run. The boiler seems to work fine apart from the lack of domestic hot water - it goes through all of the motions on the display changing from '0' (no activity) to 't' (preheating water) to 'd' (supplying domestic hot water) and the burner comes on and stays on for however long is required.
I have it on good authority via the web, a plumbers forum and the manufacturer of the boiler that this is a faulty diverter valve head.
I have obtained the correct replacement diverter valve head and I telephoned two recommended heating engineers to see if they can fit it. The first one that I telephoned said that he would not work on this brand of boiler and he was very busy at the moment, the second has not got back to me yet.
I have downloaded the installation and servicing manual for the boiler and the diverter valve head looks like a doddle to replace. I have also checked the diverter valve head that is already in there and I cannot operate the white plastic lever on the side it does indeed seem to be stuck solid.
I've done my research and I'm fairly confident of the steps I need to take to do this myself, and was wondering if I could have a little more advice on here please from those in the know/some confirmation I have done my research correctly.
From what I gather I need to depressurise the system, which I can do either by removing a couple of cupfulls of water from the filling loop or bleeding a radiator - but do I really need to do this step?? I see conflicting information where some say you don't have to do this.
The last thing I want is to be sprayed with water.
Then I need to turn the gas supply off where it enters the house, and remove power to the boiler (I'd turn off the mains switch to the boiler system, and remove the fuse).
Then unscrew the main casing which I did yesterday of course to check I was ordering the correct diverter valve.
Remove the diverter valve by unplugging the electrical connector, giving the head an anti-clockwise turn and pull it out.
Then I need to put some high temperature silicone grease (which I already have coincidentally) on the O-ring, fit the new diverter valve by pushing it on and a clockwise turn this time then reconnecting the electrical connector.
Then I put the casing back on, turn the gas back on and the power. Then repressurise the boiler back to the correct level (1.5 bar) cross my fingers and test to see if it now operates correctly.
I am also wondering do I need a replacement O-ring at all or will the silicone grease on the old one be sufficient?
Your help would be most appreciated, thanks in advance.
