Ideal M30100 No HW no CH
- Thread starter Kuzulvad
- Start date
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Hi Tony,
I switched the water main off and then swicthed the boiler on again.
The diverter goes into the CH, then back to DHW position (Forward).
The display shows "D" and get stuck there the burner display is flashing, but there is no ignition process any more.
If I move the CH thermostat up, the nothing happens and the disply is still on "D"
So, where does that leave me? (Ollsky, I haven't done a manual check of the DHW thermistor yet. I'll do it tonight)
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Hi Chris,
Yes, as soon as I saw Tony's message I rushed to do the test, and felt like a real naughty boy. Sorry, Tony.
I switched the water main off and then swicthed the boiler on again.
The diverter goes into the CH, then back to DHW position (Forward).
The display shows "D" and get stuck there the burner display is flashing, but there is no ignition process any more.
If I move the CH thermostat up, the nothing happens and the disply is still on "D"
So, where does that leave me? (Ollsky, I haven't done a manual check of the DHW thermistor yet. I'll do it tonight)
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Hi Chris,
Yes, as soon as I saw Tony's message I rushed to do the test, and felt like a real naughty boy. Sorry, Tony.
My initial reaction is that the DHW flow sensor thinks its sensing a flow.
Perhaps also the ignition is locked out.
Next please! Disconnect the DHW flow sensor and see what display shows? ( Does anyone know hot this flow sensor operates? )
I have to admit I am doing this without the book, but lets keep on going and see what happens.
Tony
Perhaps also the ignition is locked out.
Next please! Disconnect the DHW flow sensor and see what display shows? ( Does anyone know hot this flow sensor operates? )
I have to admit I am doing this without the book, but lets keep on going and see what happens.
Tony
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Hi Agile and Ollski, and all the previous writers.
Thanks very much for your continued support and I'.
The first thing I,ve done this evening is to dismantle the valve which was a bit sticky, and did'nt spring back completely into DHW position. I cleaned it and now it ioperates as it should. The actuator also operates correctly both ways.I was hoping that this would sort it, but no! On ignition, dispaly on "D", the boiler fires, valve to CH then immediately back to DHW position, then switches off!
I try to start the CH, nothing still
So, I've taken the DHW sensor out and tested the resistance at 25 deg, then higher at about 60deg and got the resistance expected by the manual.
I've also cleaned the rod (looks like copper?), reinstalled the sensor, connected it back
and tested for resistance again at each connection up to the PCB.I get a reading reaching the top enf of the range recommanded by the book.
So this sensor seems ok...?
So when I try to switch on tomorrow morning, I am hoping that this last operation will be success! Positive frame of mind is the key.
Good night for now...
Many thanks
Thanks very much for your continued support and I'.
The first thing I,ve done this evening is to dismantle the valve which was a bit sticky, and did'nt spring back completely into DHW position. I cleaned it and now it ioperates as it should. The actuator also operates correctly both ways.I was hoping that this would sort it, but no! On ignition, dispaly on "D", the boiler fires, valve to CH then immediately back to DHW position, then switches off!
I try to start the CH, nothing still
So, I've taken the DHW sensor out and tested the resistance at 25 deg, then higher at about 60deg and got the resistance expected by the manual.
I've also cleaned the rod (looks like copper?), reinstalled the sensor, connected it back
and tested for resistance again at each connection up to the PCB.I get a reading reaching the top enf of the range recommanded by the book.
So this sensor seems ok...?
So when I try to switch on tomorrow morning, I am hoping that this last operation will be success! Positive frame of mind is the key.
Good night for now...
Many thanks
P.S: forgot to mention, before tonight I did test with the DHW disconnected, and I got the message error expected: H3:
"remove DHW thermistor"
"Check resistance at 25deg, 60 deg, 85 deg"
"If values not correct, replace thermistor"
"If values correct, is there continuity between PCB and thermistor?"
"If yes, repace PCB"
"If no, check wiring"
"remove DHW thermistor"
"Check resistance at 25deg, 60 deg, 85 deg"
"If values not correct, replace thermistor"
"If values correct, is there continuity between PCB and thermistor?"
"If yes, repace PCB"
"If no, check wiring"
Hi there.
I worked at Ideal on tech side.
the flow system on the isar works on a non mechanical basis. there is no "flow switch" as such. the DHW runs via the DHW thermister located just to the right of the plate hex. it senses a temp drop in the plate and then fires for DHW. If this is on "d" constant it is as tony said 1 of 2 things...
1.
A drip or leak on the hot water side. proven by turning mains inlet off to the boiler waiting 20 secs with boiler turned on and nothing calling for heat. and watching to see if the display shows "0" if so run ch and should work fine. when you let cold mains back in will go back to "d"
2.
"H3" is an indication of a faulty DHW thermistor. simple job to change and this should cure your problem.
very unlikly for this to be caused by the pcb in any way.
Pls let me know how it goes. if no joy pls call the tech line at ideal. Theres some damn good people there. and they can go through it with you.
I worked at Ideal on tech side.
the flow system on the isar works on a non mechanical basis. there is no "flow switch" as such. the DHW runs via the DHW thermister located just to the right of the plate hex. it senses a temp drop in the plate and then fires for DHW. If this is on "d" constant it is as tony said 1 of 2 things...
1.
A drip or leak on the hot water side. proven by turning mains inlet off to the boiler waiting 20 secs with boiler turned on and nothing calling for heat. and watching to see if the display shows "0" if so run ch and should work fine. when you let cold mains back in will go back to "d"
2.
"H3" is an indication of a faulty DHW thermistor. simple job to change and this should cure your problem.
very unlikly for this to be caused by the pcb in any way.
Pls let me know how it goes. if no joy pls call the tech line at ideal. Theres some damn good people there. and they can go through it with you.
Nice to be right sometimes.
I did forget about the diverter sticking as his first problem is staying in the DHW mode but I did say fix that and see what else is wrong.
I asked him to shut off DHW inlet to boiler and see if display reset but dont think he has given a proper reply yet.
From past experience with this kind of suggestion the owner chooses the one suggestion that he prefers or is the easiest to do!
Why have you apparently left? Is the clever lady still there?
Tony Glazier
I did forget about the diverter sticking as his first problem is staying in the DHW mode but I did say fix that and see what else is wrong.
I asked him to shut off DHW inlet to boiler and see if display reset but dont think he has given a proper reply yet.
From past experience with this kind of suggestion the owner chooses the one suggestion that he prefers or is the easiest to do!
Why have you apparently left? Is the clever lady still there?
Tony Glazier
I am still there but didnt really want to say that. lol for obvious reasons.
change of user name needed i think .......
which clever lady is that then? theres quite a few of them. never be fooled into thinking that if a lady answers your gonna get nowhere. you would be surprised. there all damn good. too good at times.
prob spk to you soon if you call the tech line. lol
change of user name needed i think .......
which clever lady is that then? theres quite a few of them. never be fooled into thinking that if a lady answers your gonna get nowhere. you would be surprised. there all damn good. too good at times.
prob spk to you soon if you call the tech line. lol
Now I am getting confused, I know you are not Alan because he uses his own name, I dont think you are 6' 1" with shortish ginger hair ( Steve? ) because I dont think he answers the tech help. So ?
The " Clever Lady " has a PhD and used to give Ideal Energy Efficiency lectures although I met her at Interbuild or similar show or two but forgot her name but shes only about 5' 5" tall and slimish?
Tony Glazier
MOD
see item 22
The " Clever Lady " has a PhD and used to give Ideal Energy Efficiency lectures although I met her at Interbuild or similar show or two but forgot her name but shes only about 5' 5" tall and slimish?
Tony Glazier
MOD
see item 22
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