Ideas on dealing with this thin edge of wall?

[Joe Fixit]

Hi,

Due to walls of the bathroom not being square, I had to build out one side of it. This resulted in a thin edge protruding out.

I was thinking about tiling just past where the shower screen would be and then plaster the rest - or can tile all the way round.

But I was wondering what the best way to treat the side edge and the door frame? It's about 18mm wide/depth.

Any ideas please?

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

Fit a wider door frame?

I can't tell what the other edge of the door looks like though. Could it make more sense to board the rest of this wall so it's all a flat surface?

 

[Joe Fixit]

Fit a wider door frame?

I can't tell what the other edge of the door looks like though. Could it make more sense to board the rest of this wall so it's all a flat surface?

Do you mean the rest of the wall around the door? It's just painted plasterboard I believe.

IF I board the rest, it will help with the architrave being on one level. But still leaves the question on what to do with the thin edge (it's Hardie backer board and small slither of timber baton showing).

I wondered about just sticking some small nails and plastering this edge. Then use some thin/simple moulding for the architrave?

 

[noseall]

Do you mean the rest of the wall around the door? It's just painted plasterboard I believe.

IF I board the rest, it will help with the architrave being on one level. But still leaves the question on what to do with the thin edge (it's Hardie backer board and small slither of timber baton showing).

I wondered about just sticking some small nails and plastering this edge. Then use some thin/simple moulding for the architrave?

The door casing needs ripping out (as above) and a wider one fitting. There are a few widths to chose from.

 

[Joe Fixit]

The door casing needs ripping out (as above) and a wider one fitting. There are a few widths to chose from.

I don't think can. The existing door casing is actually screwed to the stud wall to the left. I haven't uncovered above the wall above the door or to the right but assume there's smaller frames attached above the door.

But I don't want to risk any structural problems by removing this timber frame which I think is used as the door casing.

I'm starting to think whether I should just find a thick timber and make a square thick architrave with some simple mitre cuts and screw on to the face of the existing casing/door surround

 

[^woody^]

Fit some planed timber on and blend it in to the lining.

You'll need to scrap the paint, glue and screw the plant on timber then sand/plane it to blend it in.

 

[Joe Fixit]

Fit some planed timber on and blend it in to the lining.

You'll need to scrap the paint, glue and screw the plant on timber then sand/plane it to blend it in.

Do you mean fit the planed timber on the edge of the Hardie board/batton?

If you mean glue and screw like an architrave, I still have the issue of what to do on that exposed hardieboard edge?

 

[noseall]

Fit some planed timber on and blend it in to the lining.

You'll need to scrap the paint, glue and screw the plant on timber then sand/plane it to blend it in.

It's on the rebated side though? Fine if it was on the flip side. It will create a massive rebate.

 

[^woody^]

It's on the rebated side though? Fine if it was on the flip side. It will create a massive rebate.

Yes, but it's possibly the better option if the OP does not want to change or move the lining. Timber could be added to the stops to bring the door forward too, to avoid the inset door.

Adding timber is not really that difficult or time consuming

 

[^woody^]

Do you mean fit the planed timber on the edge of the Hardie board/batton?

If you mean glue and screw like an architrave, I still have the issue of what to do on that exposed hardieboard edge?

Yes, line the edge of the lining to bring it flush with the board, then the architraves go back on that.

Surely your not leaving that board above the doorway like that, but boarding over the plasterboard to create a continuous flush surface?

 

[noseall]

Yes, but it's possibly the better option

What we tend to do, if we have to thicken the rebated side out, is step the knock-on back a bit from the edge of the casing. So that when you fix the architrave, it just appears as a thick edge to the archie. I've never attempted to thicken that much on the archie side though.

When ever we fix casings, and there is doubt as to whether the wall will inevitably thicken up in the future (dabbing, pipe runs etc) we strive to make it so that the non rebated side is available for thickening/knock-on.

 

[Joe Fixit]

Yes, line the edge of the lining to bring it flush with the board, then the architraves go back on that.

Surely your not leaving that board above the doorway like that, but boarding over the plasterboard to create a continuous flush surface?

Ideally I was going to make it flush but the wall is so far off square. I would have to board over about 60mm. Photo shows the now square plumb line to the other side of the door.

Is there an option where if I smooth and paint the existing casing to blend in with the plasterboard (so no architrave). And then have a corner moulding piece to cover/wrap around that corner with the exposed Hardie?

 

[Ivor Windybottom]

What's going on here with this strange taper?

It looks like either the new or old walls aren't plumb. If your new addition is the problem then take it down and re-do it.

You need to create a flat vertical surface, then do something with the door.

Leaving that step there above the door will always look like a botch. Because it is. Definitely if it's a weird tapered shape as it currently is.

 

[opps]

In the past when the wall/liner were out of plumb, I cut a length of MDF/timber. Let's say 10mm at the top and 25mm at the bottom. I then nailed the architrave to that. You will need to pack out the top architrave accordingly.

I cannot see any hinges in your image, but on the balance of probability, it is on the other side of side of the door frame (opening inwards).

If you pack out the architrave (fillets), it should not require you to deal with the hinge positions.

In the event that you don't have the requisite tools, you can pay a tenner/twenty (?) to get your local timber yard to rip down the fillet(s). You can then add the fillets and, if uncertain, set them on the old paint line and attach the architrave a couple of mm further back. Assuming that the door opens against the wall on the right, it should not cause any problems.

 

[Joe Fixit]

What's going on here with this strange taper?

View attachment 379997

It looks like either the new or old walls aren't plumb. If your new addition is the problem then take it down and re-do it.

You need to create a flat vertical surface, then do something with the door.

Leaving that step there above the door will always look like a botch. Because it is. Definitely if it's a weird tapered shape as it currently is.

It's just the photo. Although it bows in the middle a little, but mostly, it's build out is fairly consistent along this vertical