Identify replacements for these radiators...

[GoodDIYjob]

Afternoon,

If anyone can help with identifying these or even better a good make / model for like size replacements, I would be most appreciative.

Think they must be imperial and they've got myson valves installed on them.

Measured sizes don't seem to fully line up with imperial or metric though. I've measured to the nearest 1/2" and for width, from outer edge of water inflow moulding to the outer edge of outflow moulding. Where the valves screw into the rad body on each side. This is practically identical dimension to edge to edge of the rad itself.

All are 24" high ~610mm.

1 is 50" or v close to.
1 is 69" or v close to.
1 is 44" or v close to.
And another 2 are 37.5"!

With the exception of the 69" none of the Mysons seem to make those widths and there isn't any 24" high (seem to be 21" then 27")!

http://www.myson.co.uk/products/premier_he.asp#tabbed-2


These need replacing and trying to minimize renewal impacts particularly to flooring. Or, I could remove and try to flush through but wouldn't be too confident they would all go back in, especially looking at the condition of the thread at valve / rad connections.

View media item 76860View media item 76861View media item 76862View media item 76863

 

[stardanny]

I would use slight larger than existing radiators and fit new radiator valves and connect to existing pipe using 45 degree solder fitting or form off set bend with pipe bender.

Or buy smaller than existing and use tail extension to make up gap.

Daniel.

 

[Whitespirit66]

As above, I wouldn't try matching to imperial, as you've found it's often imposible and the rads will probably be more expensive than normal metric rads.

I would bite the bullet and go for slightly larger metrics and put an offset in either one or both of the rad's pipes from floor. Some may be easier with slightly smaller rads and valve extensions.

Use these fixed extension pieces, not the one-size-fits all, adjustable type - they are rubbish and often leak.

http://www.toolstation.com/shop/Heating/Radiator Valves/Rad Valve Extension/d230/sd2762/p37352

 

[GoodDIYjob]

OK thanks. That makes that clear then. Like the idea of a an offset, 45 off and then bend back to vertical more than a long tail extension. But those fixed extensions would be fine to my eye if they were short.

Thanks both.

 

[Whitespirit66]

Yes. agree. Long extension pieces can look a bit naff. Better for small differences.

If you're doing the offsets by bending rather than 45 deg soldered fittings, sometimes the pipe from floor to rad may need to be slightly longer to accommodate the couipling and offset bend.

 

[GoodDIYjob]

OK, I'm the OP on this thread from a few years ago, it is almost time to replace a few of these radiators. Initially. I am replacing two which appear to have faults to see how I go.

Following the helpful advice from stardanny and Whitespirit66, I'm going to try and bend offsets on one position where I have to fit a slightly larger radiator (+25mm wider) and use a fixed spacer at another position where the closest rad will be slightly narrower (-40mm narrower).

I note comments about how it maybe difficult without lengthening the pipework from the floor. This maybe the case as there is only about 140mm from floor to bottom of valve (less with room for soldering above floor and fittings etc).

Also on the one that needs the offset, I can not get beneath floor boards without laminate floor removal and the floor boards are at 90 degrees to laminate, so that would be quite a big job.

Added complication is that getting the closest replacement rads I can find, which I believe are same manufacturer, Myson Premier single panel and were closer to the wall than the Stelrad equivalent, the centre of the valve distance off the wall is still going to be 10mm greater in the new rads than old.

So, any advice on how to deal with a 25mm offset (for wider rad) and 10mm from wall offset (due to new rads valve further from wall) on the same rad feed that only have circa 140mm from floor? Doesn't seem doable from pipe bending?

I guess the rad could be put a bit higher. Or carefully bend the floor to rad feed slightly out, but of course that means the new valves will not be vertical and will point towards the front of the rad a bit.....bit naff.

Thanks

 

[dilalio]

If floor has to stay undisturbed then it’s always going to be a bit of a compromise. If, going for shorter rads leaves you with around 40mm to make up on all the rads, I would use 20mm tail extensions on both ends, of each rad, to balance the look. I would also use the tail extensions that are 15mm and can be cut to the exact length required to keep vertical pipes from floor nice and plumb.
As for entries being 10mm further out from the wall, you won’t really notice this when facing the rads... only if you look along the wall to them, at low level!

https://www.screwfix.com/p/tesla-rigid-trv-extension-piece-60mm/2456r

 

[Hot&Cold]

OK, I'm the OP on this thread from a few years ago,

Welcome back

The myson can be made to fit Maybe check your length measurements.

http://www.myson.co.uk/products/premier_he_imperial.htm#tab-1

They have to be ordered,not an on the shelf option.

 

[GoodDIYjob]

Yes, thanks. Have checked my measurements quite a few times since and for whatever reason, the Myson Imperial didn't seem to solve it except in one, maybe two cases and at a different height. Then the availability and 2x price over metric meant I just resigned to beginning metric conversion!

 

[Razor900]

Buy the next size up and come out of the valves with a street elbow then if you're lucky another elbow on each end will get you straight into the existing or a short length of horizontal pipe before you go down.

It won't be noticeable tucked right up under the rad

 

[GoodDIYjob]

Buy the next size up and come out of the valves with a street elbow then if you're lucky another elbow on each end will get you straight into the existing or a short length of horizontal pipe before you go down.

It won't be noticeable tucked right up under the rad

Yes, that sounds ok.

So, two elbows underneath the valve, possibly on each side, depending on the distance I need to make up. Thanks, yes that maybe a good option as I am not sure there would be the distance for 2 x 45 elbows beneath the rads, but I'll by some more fittings to give me some options. Only slight issue is that I am a bit stuck with the 1800mm replacing a 1775mm as the next size up I think is 2000mm probably too big for the spot but I'll have a play when the old one is off the wall.

Thank you

 

[dilalio]

2 x street (m&f) elbows...not standard socket elbows is what @Razor900 is referring to.

 

[GoodDIYjob]

Yes, thanks. Got you. So you can join one on to other, directly no pipe stub. Tks.

 

[Hot&Cold]

These 15 mm street elbows have an extended tail,handy at times into the radiator valves.

 

[GoodDIYjob]

OK. So thanks for responses provided giving me pointers on work arounds for keeping rad drop pipework in situ, I have:

replaced the 2 x rads with defective bleed valves
replaced all retained upstairs rad valves with Drayton TRVs and lockshields (these are the hottest rads compared to downstairs)
replaced downstairs valves with conventional wickes union valves and lockshields
Put in a 1 and 1/2 bottles of Fernox F3 cleaner

I had to drop all the rads 30mm with valve replacements in order to cut off the old olives so they are a little low now. I can tidy up if I ever remove flooring.

In the end I had to use two right angle elbows for the rad that was a bit larger as well as a 25mm spacer to give me enough room. Not perfect, but again, I can live with it until I lift or replace flooring. It looks relatively neat.

The water coming out on drain downs before and after F3 cleaner, didn't really carry any debris but there was extra accumulation in the mag filter but not huge amounts.

Anyway, I have since drained down entire system twice and also ran the filling loop open with the drain stop cock open for a while, the water is fairly clear but still a little golden from the cleaner. is that ok to add inhibitor now? I don't think I'll ever get rid of all the traces of the cleaner unless I access ground sub floor and cut the 22mm!

Thanks