Replacing imperial Radiator

[utterlydiy]

I am replacing a imperial radiator in the downstairs toilet. Single 19"wide x 24"high with a single 400mm wide x 600mm high from Screwfix as I donot see them listed at B&Q or Wickes. Reason for replacing is due to rusting at the seam/joint of the front/rear panels.

As the imperial rad is wider than the metric replacement, could I use the radiator valve extensions No.424914 from wickes rather than modifying the existing pipework.

Also as the autumn approaches and seeing rusty sludge etc drain from the old radiator.

What treatment would be suggested to clean the system and help protect the system. Its a vented system with small tank in attic and all downstairs radiators have a drain point for each part of their system.

thanks

 

[tincup]

Hi

Your system will probably need inhibitor x100 adding to it.
When was it last looked at?

 

[seco services]

if the systems sludgey/rusty like this
then you'll need a cleaner before adding x100 inhibitor.
i useally use sentinel x800.

 

[Agile]

If the system has red oxide like then then there has been recent pumping over which indicates serious sludging and I would be advocating power flushing or some really serious acid cleaning.

Tony

 

[utterlydiy]

If the system has red oxide like then then there has been recent pumping over which indicates serious sludging

Tony

No understand 'there has been recent pumping over'.??????

The Boiler and Heating system is covered by british gas servicing every year including parts, would this be part of their service routine to check the condition of the water within the system as they check the operation of the Water and Heating system etc after servicing the boiler.

thanks for the other replies.

 

[twgas]

the water condition is not checked at a service call.
a powerflush would not be covered either, if there is a fault on your system BG will repair it, however, if the fault is caused by the condition of the water the engineer should advise you if you dont get the underlying problem sorted any further faults, that are due to the water condition, may be chargeable.
the system would work more efficiently if it was cleaned.

 

[Agile]

My comment was only in relation to the photo posted by Seco.

That indicated recent pumping over.

A cap has been placed over the vent. Possibly to stop it pumping over although a dangerous thing to do. Might be just part of the correction procedure as work in progress.

Tony

 

[kevplumb]

although a dangerous thing to do

why

 

[twgas]

although a dangerous thing to do

why

Some DIYers....

Tony, if your post about red oxide and Seco was directed at me, I read this;

Also as the autumn approaches and seeing rusty sludge etc drain from the old radiator

in OPs first post, hence my comments.

 

[vulcancontinental]

although a dangerous thing to do

why

I assumed the picture was to illustrate a different installation where the open vent had been capped off as part of flushing.

If it was capped off in general operation it would be dangerous as many installs in the past had a gate or isolation valve fitted in the cold feed (where expansion in system volume is taken to the F&E tank) which has been known to have been closed in ignorance by the householder.

The cold feed could also become blocked with sediment in pumped primary installs thereby leaving the system contents with no route for expansion.

Well that's my take on the issue.

 

[kevplumb]

while i agree with you

ive seen a lot of installs with combined vent and feed

which if you think about it
makes a blocked cold feed just as dangerous

capping the vent ?

the expansion just backs up the cold feed

and as for valves on the feed i was always told you dont do it

but as you saythere are plenty about

 

[doitall]

Nothing wrong with a good old fashion LS gate valve on the cold feed, then again we always label and chart every valve and what it does.

If a header tank is as bad as the pic posted by Seco, the best advice is a strip out and renew, the radiators will be on the last legs, and as soon as you touch them they'll start leaking. No way should you put strong cleaners in a system that bad.

 

[vulcancontinental]

If I close coupled where the MI allowed it I'd alway do it at the F&E not above the pump where you can get that sediment build up. I always used 22 for the cold feed wherever it went anyway.

As for GV on the cold feed, the old BG spec specifically mentioned not to do it and also required a stopcock in the main to the F&E tank as the means to isolate the supply of water to the heating system.

That might have changed but I don't think so.

 

[doitall]

Get away Vulcancontinental, since when did anyone take any notice of BG

The commercial and industrial sector has always installed isolating valves, wherever it's necessary, and usually a few extra for good luck.

 

[D_Hailsham]

As the imperial rad is wider than the metric replacement, could I use the radiator valve extensions No.424914 from wickes rather than modifying the existing pipework.

How about a simple yes/no reply to the OP's main question?